Best of Birthstones: 20 Enchanting Emeralds

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Once Cleopatra’s alleged favourite gemstone, the glamorous emerald continues to impress everyone from royals to the red carpet’s best dressed. Beloved for their rich, exotic colour, emeralds are a bluish-green variety of the mineral beryl. When chromium, vanadium and iron are present in beryl, emeralds form, and the varying presence of these three elements results in a range of colours. If the stone’s hue is too yellow or blue, it is not an emerald but rather a variety of beryl, which makes highly transparent and vividly saturated green emeralds extremely valuable and coveted. In honour of May’s birthstone, we selected 20 extraordinary emerald jewels from our past and upcoming auctions around the world. –Stephanie Sporn

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 and 2
16 May | Geneva

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Session 3

16 May | Geneva

Fine Jewels
7 June | London

Best of Birthstones: 20 Enchanting Emeralds

  • Emerald and diamond ring, Harry Winston. Estimate CHF305,000–505,000 ($309,740–512,848).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    From a distinguished European family, this ring features a step-cut emerald weighing 14.49 carats within a frame of pear-shaped diamonds. 

  • Cultured pearl, onyx, emerald and diamond sautoir, Janesich. Estimate CHF16,000–21,000 ($16,249–21,326).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Baroque shaped cultured pearls, onyx, diamonds and emerald beads comprise this striking tassel necklace. 

  • The Legendary Stotesbury Emerald, platinum, emerald and diamond ring, Harry Winston.
    Sold for $996,500 at Sotheby’s New York.
    Returning to auction for the first time since 1971, the Stotesbury Emerald fetched nearly $1 million. This unique stone's fascinating history includes two celebrated design houses and three incomparable women who shared an impeccable eye for renowned jewels and gemstones. 

  • Emerald, enamel and diamond bracelet-watch, ‘Dragon’, Bulgari, 1960s. Estimate CHF205,000–305,000 ($208,186–309,740).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    This highly articulated design, composed of green enamelled scale-like links, diamonds, ruby eyes and a head embellished with a pear-shaped emerald, reveals a circular watch, the dial signed Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

  • E
merald ring. Estimate £28,000–38,000 ($35,968–47,435).
    To be offered in Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s London on 7 June. 

    This sugarloaf emerald ring is set with a mount decorated with wood. 

  • Pair of emerald and diamond pendants. Estimate CHF105,000–155,000 ($106,632–157,409).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    In these pendants, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds surround emeralds weighing 8.80 and 9.10 carats. 

  • Unmounted emerald. Estimate CHF325,000–425,000 ($330,051–431,605).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Of Colombian origin, this unmounted step-cut emerald weighs 13.62 carats. 

  • Two emerald and diamond necklaces. Estimate CHF205,000–305,000 ($208,186–309,740).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    This lot includes a necklace with two rows of emerald beads, as well as one with three rows of graduated emerald beads – both are highlighted with baguette diamond-set barrel motifs. 

  • Pair of emerald, onyx and diamond earrings, ‘Panthère’, Cartier. Estimate CHF52,000–82,000 ($52,808–83,274).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Designed as a classic Cartier panther atop an onyx hoop, these earrings are further accented by a fringe of brilliant-cut diamonds and drop-shaped emeralds. 

  • Attractive emerald and diamond necklace, late 19th century and later. Estimate CHF510,000–810,000 ($517,925–822,587).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Cushion-shaped diamonds and step-cut Colombian emeralds form this necklace's line structure. 

  • Emerald and diamond ring. Estimate £18,000–22,000 
($22,208–26,752).
    To be offered in Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s London on 7 June.
    Featuring a step-cut emerald and brilliant-cut diamonds, this ring also features pear-shaped and marquise diamonds. 

  • Emerald, sapphire, ruby and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate CHF35,000–55,000 ($35,544–55,855).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    This colourful torsade of emerald, sapphire and ruby beads centres a carved emerald depicting a woman's figure within a frame of brilliant-cut diamonds. 

  • Emerald and diamond bracelet, Cartier. Estimate CHF50,000–80,000 ($50,777–81,243).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    From square-shaped to baguette, a variety of diamonds suround sugarloaf emeralds in this deco design by Cartier. 

  • Attractive emerald and diamond necklace. Estimate CHF122,000–182,000 ($123,896–184,828).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Diamonds in a variety of shapes support two detachable step-cut emeralds weighing 7.82 and 7.99 carats. 

  • Emerald and diamond ring. Estimate £8,000–10,000
($9,870–12,338).
    To be offered in Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s London on 7 June.
    Triangular diamonds surrounds this hexagonal step-cut emerald ring. 

  • Emerald, onyx, enamel and diamond necklace. Estimate CHF7,000–9,000 ($7,109–9,140).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    Emerald and onyx beads centre a plaque of open work design, millegrain-set with a cabochon emerald and rose diamonds, applied with black enamel and gold motifs. 

  • Pair of emerald and diamond ear clips. Estimate £20,000–30,000
($24,676–37,014)
    To be offered in Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s London on 7 June.
    Each ear clip is set with a cabochon emerald, within a frame of brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds. 

  • Emerald and diamond pendant, circa 1910. Estimate CHF105,000–155,000 ($106,632–157,409).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Session 3, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    In this early 20th-century design, a step-cut emerald accented by rose diamonds is suspended from millegrain-set diamonds. 

  • Pair of emerald and diamond ear clips and an emerald and diamond ring. Estimate CHF18,500–25,500 ($18,787–25,896).
    To be offered in Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels, Sessions 1 & 2, at Sotheby’s Geneva on 16 May.
    This lot features ear clips supporting detachable pear-shaped emerald pendant weighing 8.22 carats and 9.02 carats respectively, as well as a ring with a 6.97-carat emerald. 

  • Emerald and diamond pendant. Estimate £7,000–9,000
 ($8,637–11,104).
    To be offered in Fine Jewels at Sotheby’s London on 7 June.
    On offer in London is this Meister Claw-set pendant with a step-cut emerald and marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. 

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