I f anything characterised the jewelry at this seasons LFW it was a sense of restraint. No showy or complex compositions here; just elegant, simple pieces that enhanced the clothes or added a note of embellishment where necessary.
First up, Victoria Beckham who has form in matching singular pieces of jewelry that compliment her low-key luxe tailoring. This season a brushed gold egg-shaped pendant was the focus, worn asymmetrically against a signature black dress or against bare skin in a black sleeveless cleverly constructed column.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi upped the ante, but only slightly, focusing on large (almost shoulder-grazing) embellished hoop earrings in gold, adding sheen to the 70’s floral prints or dramatic black, particularly effective paired with the black palette of some of the tailoring.
Simone Rocha honed-in on the pearl (the gem that is having a huge moment in fine jewelry right now), pairing pearly earrings and pretty pearl hair clips with a sheer trench or simpler drop pearls with a pearl embellished dress as modelled by Chloe Sevigny. Scale was increased again with a girondelle style, again all echoed with girly hair clips toughened by brogue-wearing models.
Peter Pilotto continued his partnership with Italian jeweler Marco Panconesi, matching the frothy sorbet palette of the clothes with gorgeous agate jewels – pale yellow beads hung from silver tendrils like berries in a pair of earrings while more pearls appeared here too, their pale lustre contrasted with lapis lazuli in hoop earrings and simple organic inspired bracelets.
Roksanda embraced the single earring trend mixing her voluminous ruffled dresses in deep raspberry and mustard shades with complex art nouveau-esque constructions that hung from the lobe, again with pearls and even a trailing feather to tickle the shoulder.
More graphic shapes were also offered in gold, set a against a taupe jumpsuit they were architectural and striking. Single earrings were seen at Vivienne Westwood; ever the maverick these were worn by men as well, simple hoops suspended with silver spoons (an obvious piece of customary social commentary from the British veteran perhaps?).
JW Anderson offered the most obvious chunky statement with thick gold chains hung choker style around the neck. While Emilia Wickstead presented a wearable and obvious pairing – borrowing kite cut diamonds from cult jeweler Jessica McCormack thereby adding a suitably luxury flourish to her creations, begging the questions – why don’t more designers pair up with the multitude of fine jewelers on offer in London?