N ew York City has a lot going for it right now—most notably an excellent basketball team that's making everyone (well, New Yorkers) feel deeply patriotic to the Big Apple. But the City that Never Sleeps has always been something of a standout, producing art and design—and artists and designers—that more than hold its own on the global stage.
New York-based houses do jewelry particularly well and, forgive us, but did Miss Holly Golightly dine at any other diamond-establishments? No. Our High Jewelry sale will be held at the Breuer on 16 June—below are 5 extraordinary pieces from New York designers you should be bidding on now.
Oscar Heyman & Brothers Brooch
Oscar and Nathan Heyman moved to New York from Latvia in 1906, bringing with them the skills and expertise to establish their jewelry firm. They quickly became known as "the jewelers jeweler," due to manufacturing contracts with larger maisons (Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels included). They also made pieces under their own moniker, including this brooch (which can also be worn as a pendant). The piece features at its center a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 16.15 carats, surrounded by emerald-cut and pear-shaped diamonds and surmounted by an oval-shaped sapphire and swags of marquise-shaped diamonds.
JAR Earclips
Joel Arthur Rosenthal, aka the man behind JAR, does operate out of Paris, but he's from the Bronx, so we're counting him. JAR has become one of the most collectible jewelry maisons since its founding in the 1970s. His meticulous attention to detail coupled with an inventive use of stones and gems, and artistic flourishes make each of his unique pieces catnip to jewelry lovers. These earclips are bound to be no exception, composed of carved chrysoprase set with lavender jade cabochons, and accented by single-cut diamonds.
David Webb Bracelet
No one quite does over-the-top jewels like David Webb. The jeweler, who has had everyone from Jacqueline Kennedy Onasis and Andy Warhol to Barbra Streisand and Beyoncé wearing his creations, knows how to make fanciful and distinctive designs. This lion-inspired watch is no exception. The lion himself is carved from coral but he is surrounded by a profusion of emeralds and diamonds and the bracelet's body is made of enameled gold links.
Harry Winston Ring-Pendant
Harry Winston is famous for dealing in enormous gems—he himself owned the Hope diamond for a decade before donating it to the Smithsonian in 1958. The story goes that when he was 12, he recognized a two-carat emerald for what it was in a pawn shop. After purchasing it for 25 cents, he sold it a few days later for $800. And thus a jewelry star was born. This piece is a two-for: the 10.64 carat emerald can be housed in a ring setting with two pear-shaped diamonds on either side, or set as a pendant with a cluster of marquise-, pear-shaped and round diamonds surrounding it.
Tiffany & Co. Brooch
Tiffany & Co. might be one of the most well-recognized brands in the entire world, partly due to it's film canonization, but mostly because of the incredible jewels it has crafted since its inception in 1837. Over the years, it has employed jewelry designers of such high caliber that their names routinely appear alongside the brand's assay mark. This Bird on a Rock design was first created for Bunny Mellon, the prolific jewelry collector, in the late 1950s by Jean Schlumberger. It has gone on to become a collector's dream. This "rock" is made from a cushion cut citrine whilst the bird is encrusted with pavé-set round diamonds.