Watches

Online Auction: 25 August–4 September 2020 • 12:00 PM EDT • New York
Watches 25 August–4 September 2020 • 12:00 PM EDT • New York

S otheby’s is pleased to present our Fall Watches Online auction open for bidding from 25 August – 4 September. This sale features a striking selection of modern and vintage timepieces for every collector. A particular highlight is an impressive modern Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar updated with a 41 mm case and extra-thin in-house caliber 5134 movement. The watch is presented in excellent condition, fresh from factory service by Audemars Piguet.

This sale includes a wide variety of Rolex sports watches, featuring iconic models such as the Hulk, the Batman, and modern ceramic Daytona’s. Vintage models include a trio of Double Red Sea Dwellers, well preserved GMT-Masters, a 6239 Double Swiss underline Daytona, and a lovely pre-Daytona from 1964.

Rounding out our sale is a number of limited edition pieces by Omega and IWC in excellent like-new condition, and elegant lady’s wristwatches by Piaget, Cartier, Bulgari and more.

Anatomy of an Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetuel
The Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetuel combines an iconic sports watch design with the most classic horological complication: the perpetual calendar.

The collection first launched in 1983 as the Reference 5554. The model was originally dressed in a 39 mm case and has since seen over 90 variations in style and size. Today’s rendition is upgraded with a large 41 mm case, new extra-thin in-house movement, and a multi-dimensional ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial.

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  • CASE AND BRACELET

    The light-weight stainless steel 41 mm case makes for a striking wrist presence

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  • CASE AND BRACELET

    Extra-thin 9.5 mm thick case

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  • CASE AND BRACELET

    Alternating satin brushed finish with mirror polished chamfers and edges

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  • DIAL

    A silvered ‘Grande tappisserie’ dial

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  • DIAL

    Applied hour markers with luminescent coating

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  • DIAL

    Highly detailed astronomical moon aperture

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  • DIAL

    Number Of The Week inner bezel

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  • MOVEMENT

    The automatic in-house caliber 5134 movement is only 4.3 mm thick and is fully visible through the sapphire display back

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Featured Highlights

Anatomy of a Rolex: REF 6239 ‘Double Swiss Underline' Daytona
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  • 275 Units per Hour

    Fitted with its correct Mark 1 bezel calibrated to 300 units per hour, it can be easily identified by the 275 units per hour marking nestled between 300 and 250 units per hour – a trait that can only be found on the earliest pieces.

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  • Silver Lining

    The silvered ‘Underline” found directly below the Rolex Cosmograph signature is believed to be an indication of the transition between radium to tritium. The ‘Underline’ is a characteristic seen on other early Rolex sports models, and today, is often highly desirable for its rarity.

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  • Double Swiss

    As a result of the larger Cosmograph bezel, Rolex had to duplicate the SWISS stamping in order to make it visible on the dial. There is in fact another “SWISS” designation millimeters beneath the second one, found at the dial’s lower edge by 6 o’clock.

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The Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller

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  • The Crown

    The coronet is with uneven spikes and the crown opening and diminutive.

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  • The Crown

    The coronet is clearly printed with a flat bottom.

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  • The Crown

    Mark IV is the final version of the DRSD dials made for general production.

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  • Small Details

    The "D" in Sea-Dweller lines up with "I" in Submariner 2000.
    The red print is bright and crisp, printed directly to the black matte dial

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  • Small Details

    The "D" in Sea-Dweller lines up with the "R" in Submariner 2000.

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  • Small Details

    The red print is applied more lightly.

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  • Circa 1971

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    Rolex: Reference 1665 Double Red Sea-Dweller
    A STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH DATE AND BRACELET, CIRCA 1971
    Estimate $70,000 – 90,000

    Dial: black, Mark II
    Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
    Movement number: D047373
    Case: stainless steel case, screw down case back
    Case number: 2'926'921
    Closure: stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp
    Dimensions: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 185 mm
    Signed: case, dial and movement
    Accessories: Rolex Official Chronometer Certificate, Guarantee booklet dated July 3, 1974, bi-fold, three additional links, additional original crystal, original case back sticker and hang tag

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  • Circa 1975

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    Rolex: Reference 1665 Double Red Sea-Dweller
    A STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH DATE AND BRACELET, CIRCA 1975
    Estimate $20,000 – 30,000

    Dial: black, Mark IV
    Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
    Movement number: D'129'173
    Case: stainless steel case, screw-down case back
    Case number: 4'223'520
    Closure: stainless steel Rolex bracelet with folding clasp
    Dimensions: 39 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 165 mm
    Signed: case, dial and movement
    Accessories: none

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  • Circa 1972

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    Rolex: Reference 1665 Double Red Sea-Dweller
    A STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WRISTWATCH WITH DATE AND BRACELET, CIRCA 1972
    Estimate $15,000 – 25,000

    Dial: black, Mark III
    Caliber: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels
    Movement number: D'141'035
    Case: stainless steel, scew-down case back
    Case number: 3'118'105
    Closure: stainless steel Rolex bracelet with folding clasp
    Dimensions: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 185 mm
    Signed: case, dial and movement
    Accessories: Rolex service box, open service guarantee and polishing cloth

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Rolex
rolex | reference 1665 sea-dweller 'great white' a stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, circa 1978
Estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 USD
Rolex: Reference 1665 Sea-Dweller 'Great White'
The Reference 1665 was produced from 1967 to 1977. In the last years of this production, Rolex retired the Double Red lines in favor of white writing, popularly nicknamed the ‘Great White.’ The ‘Submariner 2000’ text is also omitted, celebrating the Sea-Dweller as an unique line in the family of Rolex models. The present lot features an exceptional Mark I dial, distinguished by the first two lines of printed text which are perfectly aligned.

A Half Century of the Rolex Daytona

The Omega Trilogy Set


I n celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster, Omega produced a limited run of 557 ‘Trilogy’ sets, each comprised of a Speedmaster, Railmaster and Seamaster. Each watch was modeled on the original 1957 editions of these timepieces, the references 2915, 2914 and 2913, all sharing the Broad Arrow hands and straight bevel lugged cases.

The present set is offered in excellent like-new condition numbered 390 of 557 and complete with box, papers, and limited edition accessories.

OMEGA | THREE 60TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION STAINLESS STEEL WRISTWATCHES, CIRCA 2017 | SPEEDMASTER REF 311.10.39.30.01.002 A LIMITED EDITION STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPH WRISTWATCH WITH BRACELET, CIRCA 2017
Estimate $15,000 – 25,000

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