René Boivin | Two Gold and Ruby Clip-Brooches, France

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Françoise Cailles dated May 3, 2016 stating that the clips are from a design by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin. The present pair of clips, modern in form and unfettered by convention in choice of materials, is an iconic example of the firm’s sculptural look. The heart-shapes are exaggerated and full, representing a divergence from the hard, geometric angles of the Art Deco period and presaging the fluid, voluminous forms of the 1940s. Each clip is set with cabochon rubies and sapphires of varying size and color—from deep red to light pink—offering texture and depth to the design. While it was unusual in that period to find so many shades of the same color family in one jewel, Juliette Moutard chose to amplify this feature by setting the stones in open backs, endowing the piece with an almost hallucinatory glow. A highly creative interpretation of a classic form, these Boivin hearts serve as both captivating symbols of endearment and wearable works of art.