CARTIER | A RARE 'TUTTI FRUTTI' DIAMOND AND GEM SET BROOCH 卡地亞 | 'Tutti Frutti' 鑽石 配 寶石 別針
PROPERTY OF AN IMPORTANT PRIVATE COLLECTOR
CARTIER | A RARE 'TUTTI FRUTTI' DIAMOND AND GEM SET BROOCH
卡地亞 | 'Tutti Frutti' 鑽石 配 寶石 別針
The brooch of foliate design centring on a carved sapphire fruit, to the openwork floral motifs set with variously-shaped diamonds highlighted with carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, to the vase set with double rose-cut diamond of brownish tint decorated with cabochon rubies, signed Cartier, numbered, circa 1930, case stamped Cartier.
Metal tested as platinum. Signed Cartier, numbered 17737. Centre carved sapphire is dark blue colour and medium saturation; smaller carved and cabochon sapphires are of medium blue colour and medium strong to strong saturation; carved emeralds are of green colour and carved rubies are of pinkish to purplish red colour, light to medium tone and saturation; all with typical inclusions and some are surface reaching, with abrasions, pits and scratches, some with chips and a few with cavities. Cabochon rubies are of medium purplish red colour and medium strong saturation, there are minor typical inclusions with a few surface reaching, some pits, a few scratches and one tiny chip but all are not visible to the naked eye. All the gemstones are observed under 10x magnification. Double rose-cut diamond estimated to weigh approximately 7.00-8.00 carats, of light yellowish brown colour and VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Smaller diamonds are bright and lively.
Signs of normal wear to the metal as commensurate with age. Overall in very good condition. Case stamped Cartier.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Cf.: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary, New York, 1984, pg. 175, for illustrations of other brooches of similar motifs, dated 1925-1929.
At the height of the Art Deco era, Cartier created a sensational jewelry style depicting lush leaves, berries and blossoms known as the ‘tuttifrutti’ (fruit salad) in the 1920s. Sumptuous engraved gems and beads of striking colours were mixed and matched to create flower vases and fruit bowls, inspired by the Mughal aesthetics. Famous patrons of these vibrant brooches include W.K Vanderbilt and Mrs George Blumenthal, each with a specially inspired jewel during the twenties; Sir Elton John is also known to own a vase brooch of similar motif from the 1990s. This brooch of lot 1622 is a beautiful example of tuttifrutti jewelry as a flower vasedecorated with carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, and an attractive rose-cut diamond as the base. This may be one of the few examples of a tutti-frutti brooch mounted with a diamond of noticeable size, which is exceptional and rare.
上世紀20年代，裝飾藝術風格盛行，卡地亞以樹葉、漿果和花朵為主題，創作出一種令世人驚歎的珠寶風格，名為‘Tutti Frutti’（水果錦囊）系列，一時間風頭無兩。這些用大量色彩鮮艷的雕刻寶石和寶石珠所搭配組成的花瓶或果籃形珠寶風格鮮明，很明顯是受到了印度莫臥兒王朝審美的影響。‘Tutti Frutti’系列的別針尤為鮮艷奪目，廣受珠寶藏家們的喜愛，著名收藏家美國名媛W.K Vanderbilt夫人和George Blumenthal夫人分別擁有一件20年代的‘Tutti Frutti’別針。據稱，音樂家Elton John爵士在90年代收藏了一枚類似風格的花瓶形別針。此次上拍的Lot 1622是一枚用雕刻紅寶石、藍寶石、祖母綠及玫瑰型切割鑽石鑲嵌而成的花瓶形別針，可謂一件典型且精美絕倫的Tutti Frutti珠寶。此別針或許是Tutti Frutti系列中鑲嵌最大單颗鑽石的一枚，為非常稀有罕見的珍品。