EMERALD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, FRANCE | 祖母綠配紅寶石、藍寶石、縞瑪瑙及鑽石手鏈，卡地亞
Property From a Prominent Fifth Generation New York Family
EMERALD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, FRANCE
Composed of six plaques centering old European, pear-shaped and French-cut diamonds, an oval-shaped ruby, a square-cut emerald and an oval-shaped sapphire, framed by calibré-cut emeralds and sapphires, accented by pear-shaped sapphires and emeralds, spaced by floral motifs featuring pear-shaped diamonds and onyx cabochons, highlighted with round rubies, length 7 inches, signed Cartier Paris, Londres, New York, numbered 5866, with French assay marks; circa 1925.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1103960 dated October 3, 2019 stating that the oval-shaped sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the oval-shaped ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the square-cut emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
In good condition, especially given the age of the piece, with light wear to the mounting, and a couple of the galleries bent slightly inward, noticeable only to the reverse upon close inspection. French assay marks for platinum. Signed on the female end of clasp, numbered on the gallery on the female end of clasp. The old European-cut diamond weighing approximately 3.45 carats, the pear-shaped diamond weighing approximately 1.95 carats and the French-cut diamond weighing approximately 2.40 carats, are approximately H-J color, VS-SI1 clarity. The smaller pear-shaped diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 9.50 carats, are approximately H-J color, VVS-VS clarity with a few SI examples. The rubies, including the oval-shaped ruby weighing approximately 2.20 carats, are medium deep slightly purplish red, slightly included, with strong saturation. The sapphires, including the oval-shaped sapphire weighing approximately 3.10 carats, are medium deep blue to very slightly violetish blue, predominantly slightly included with a few moderately included examples. The square-cut emerald, weighing approximately 2.25 carats, is medium deep very slightly bluish green, slightly included, with vivid saturation. The pear-shaped and calibré-cut emeralds are medium to medium deep slightly bluish green to green, moderately to heavily included. The rubies, emeralds and sapphires moderately to heavily abraded and with surface scratches. The onyx with good polish and in good condition. Gross weight approximately 25 dwts. Clasp is fitted with safety closure and closes securely. Width approximately ½ inch. Accompanied by AGL report no. 1103960 dated October 3, 2019 stating that the oval-shaped sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the oval-shaped ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the square-cut emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Beautifully constructed, timeless in design and infinitely wearable, Cartier’s Art Deco jewelry represents one of the great highpoints in the history of jewelry. Working under Louis Cartier, Charles Jacqueau (1885–1968), widely considered “the Picasso of jewelry design,” brought new excitement to the firm in the 1920s when fashion demanded new styles of jewelry. His pioneering use of abstract geometric forms, brilliant color and stylized ornamentation was largely inspired by the architecture and cultures of Egypt, Islam, India, Greece and China as well as the Jardin des Plantes and Ballets Russes.
The bracelet offered here captures the shift away from the prevailing palette of black and white into bold color and design. Its rich color combinations are akin to the firm’s tutti frutti creations, but the jewel diverges strongly in style and source of inspiration. While tutti frutti pieces epitomized Eastern exoticism, this bracelet appears to draw inspiration from European design and architecture. The seamless integration of old-cut diamonds with a Burmese sapphire, Colombian emerald and Burmese ruby of exceptional quality, is further highlighted by geometric borders composed of contrasting groupings of calibré-cut sapphires and emeralds. Completed by diamond and ruby florets, it is evocative of kaleidoscopic stained glass windows found in Gothic cathedrals. Like other jewels by Cartier from the Art Deco period, it possesses a remarkably lithe flexibility making it a wearable masterpiece.