Property From a Prominent Fifth Generation New York Family
EMERALD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, FRANCE | 祖母綠配紅寶石、藍寶石、縞瑪瑙及鑽石手鏈，卡地亞
Auction Closed
December 10, 09:01 PM GMT
Estimate
200,000 - 300,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Property From a Prominent Fifth Generation New York Family
EMERALD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, FRANCE
祖母綠配紅寶石、藍寶石、縞瑪瑙及鑽石手鏈，卡地亞
Composed of six plaques centering old European, pear-shaped and French-cut diamonds, an oval-shaped ruby, a square-cut emerald and an oval-shaped sapphire, framed by calibré-cut emeralds and sapphires, accented by pear-shaped sapphires and emeralds, spaced by floral motifs featuring pear-shaped diamonds and onyx cabochons, highlighted with round rubies, length 7 inches, signed Cartier Paris, Londres, New York, numbered 5866, with French assay marks; circa 1925.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1103960 dated October 3, 2019 stating that the oval-shaped sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the oval-shaped ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; the square-cut emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
Beautifully constructed, timeless in design and infinitely wearable, Cartier’s Art Deco jewelry represents one of the great highpoints in the history of jewelry. Working under Louis Cartier, Charles Jacqueau (1885–1968), widely considered “the Picasso of jewelry design,” brought new excitement to the firm in the 1920s when fashion demanded new styles of jewelry. His pioneering use of abstract geometric forms, brilliant color and stylized ornamentation was largely inspired by the architecture and cultures of Egypt, Islam, India, Greece and China as well as the Jardin des Plantes and Ballets Russes.
The bracelet offered here captures the shift away from the prevailing palette of black and white into bold color and design. Its rich color combinations are akin to the firm’s tutti frutti creations, but the jewel diverges strongly in style and source of inspiration. While tutti frutti pieces epitomized Eastern exoticism, this bracelet appears to draw inspiration from European design and architecture. The seamless integration of old-cut diamonds with a Burmese sapphire, Colombian emerald and Burmese ruby of exceptional quality, is further highlighted by geometric borders composed of contrasting groupings of calibré-cut sapphires and emeralds. Completed by diamond and ruby florets, it is evocative of kaleidoscopic stained glass windows found in Gothic cathedrals. Like other jewels by Cartier from the Art Deco period, it possesses a remarkably lithe flexibility making it a wearable masterpiece.