Property from an Important Private Collection
AN EXCEPTIONAL FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND, DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE CLIP-BROOCH, VERDURA | 艷彩黃色鑽石配鑽石及藍寶石別針一枚，Verdura
Estimate: 1,600,000 - 2,400,000 USD
Property from an Important Private Collection
AN EXCEPTIONAL FANCY VIVID YELLOW DIAMOND, DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE CLIP-BROOCH, VERDURA
Designed as an iris, centering a round-cornered square brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 14.37 carats, the petals set throughout with cabochon sapphires, highlighted with round diamonds, signed Verdura. With signed box.
Accompanied by a GIA report no. 5201658548 dated October 16, 2019 stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, SI1 clarity.
In good condition, the mounting with a few small areas of slight discoloration, signs of light wear including faint surface scratches, not noticeable when worn, and the pinstems bent out of alignment, not visible when worn or affecting wearability. Mounting stamped 18K and Plat. The sapphires, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 44.50 carats, are medium deep to deep slightly violetish blue to blue, slightly to moderately included with a couple heavily included examples. The diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 1.75 carats, are approximately G-H color, VS clarity. Gross weight approximately 26 dwts. Dimensions approximately 1⅞ x 1¾ inches. Accompanied by a GIA report no. 5201658548 dated October 16, 2019 stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, SI1 clarity.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Illustrated in Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, page 178.
The spirit behind the extraordinary piece offered here begins with Duke Fulco di Verdura. Born into Sicilian aristocracy in 1899, he channeled his vivid imagination and playful brand of humor into his formal training as an artist. By the age of 23 he had inherited his title, but not the fortune to go with it. His prospects changed considerably, however, when he met the newly-wed Cole and Linda Porter in Palermo, laying the foundation for a lifetime of friendship and patronage. The Porters and Verdura were kindred spirits, sharing a passion for beauty in all forms and reveling in the heady social whirl of pre-war Europe. Fulco di Verdura personified the “good life.” His charm, pedigree and connections served him well throughout his career, from his early days designing for Coco Chanel to the support he received from Vincent Astor when establishing his salon on Fifth Avenue.
As revealed through thousands of sketches and gouaches, Verdura conceived an extraordinary number of unforgettable jewels. Fantastical creatures appeared alongside works derived from the canon of European design. For every sea nymph or seashell, there was a Maltese cross cuff created for an eager and devoted clientele. Each piece is expressive and joyous, whether through an effusion of color, an unexpected flourish, or sheer impact. His most ardent admirers—Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Babe Paley and the Duchess of Windsor, to name but a few—valued his talent for flexing aesthetic boundaries with refinement and grace.
Verdura’s legacy continues today with Ward Landrigan and his son, Nico. Since 1985, the Landrigan family has triumphed the work of Verdura, creating jewels with the same passion and devotion as the Duke himself. Commissioned in 1999 by the present owner, lot 497, like most of Verdura’s blooms, is life-sized and as realistically rendered as one laden with gemstones can be. When the brooch dips into the surrealist waters explored by Fulco, however, with its 14.37-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, it becomes truly iconic.
The color of the diamond is so astonishing as to encourage disbelief. A true specimen stone, its intensity and quality is unlike anything seen on the market in recent years, bringing to mind the marquise-shaped 13.83-carat Julie V. Burden diamond sold by Sotheby’s in 1997 for $3.3 million. The cut of the stone, a squared cushion with broad, brilliant-cut facets and an open culet, would typically cause color to escape from a diamond, making the saturation all the more impressive.
Sotheby’s is honored to present this remarkable gemstone, set within an exquisite jewel, from the legendary house of Verdura.