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T his Spring, the mood in Paris is Art Nouveau, reflecting the resurgent demand for this enduring, influential movement. Feted since the 1930s for its originality, innovative use of materials and revolt against mass-produced homogeneity, the appeal of Art Nouveau jewelry is reaching a new peak, driven by increasingly discerning fashion collectors seeking one-of-a-kind pieces freighted with an enchanted history and embodying principles that resonate ever more today.
According to renowned jewelry dealer Benjamin Macklowe, ‘If a piece hits the trifecta of wearability, beauty and unusual design,’ he commented in Rapaport Magazine (January 2024) ‘It will always be popular. Motifs such as dragonflies, butterflies, femme fleur, wisteria, etc are evergreen.’
And Art Nouveau casts its distinctive light across a series of exciting auctions taking in Paris this spring, as part of Sotheby's ongoing global season of Luxury Sales where modernity complements tradition, originality and beauty defy categorisation and elegance dominates the curation of luxury items.
So,as we celebrate originality, tradition, charisma and nature, we are honoured to welcome to Sotheby’s two very special guests to explore the selection on offer in Handbags & Accessories and Fine Jewels – Italian princesses H.R.H. Princess Maria Chiara of Bourbon Two Sicilies, Duchess of Noto and Capri, and her elder sister, H.R.H. Princess Maria Carolina of Bourbon Two Sicilies, Duchess of Calabria and Palermo. Daughters of Prince Carlo, Duke of Castro, who in turn, is the great-great-great-grandson of Francis II, the last King of the Two Sicilies (Sicily and Naples), these two ladies are global style icons, who symbolise elegance, femininity and a unique fashion panache.
In their respective personal styles, each sister places supreme value on originality, creativity and self-expression. Both princesses radiate an inspiring message of individuality – together, they are positively iconic. They both joined us to talk about style, fashion, fabric and timelessness as well as reflecting on the delights and highlights within the Fine Jewels and Handbags & Accessories sales in Paris.
What does fashion mean to you? How would you each describe your personal styles and how have you evolved over the years?
HRH Princesses Maria Carolina and Maria Chiara: Fashion is a form of self-expression, a means to communicate our individuality and creativity. It’s a perpetual return to the past, where innovation lies in the details, the materials, the fabrics, the finishing touches and the accessories. Our personal styles have evolved over the years, reflecting our growth, experiences, and changing tastes. It's all about discovering what suits us best, what colours complement us, and feeling comfortable and confident in what we wear.
Maria Carolina: I really feel that I transitioned from ‘Does this match?’ to ‘Do I love this?’ Experimentation became my philosophy, leading to combinations that defy the usual conventions. However, as much as I try out different fashion styles, my comfort zone remains a very feminine, elegant, and classic style, with a penchant for extravagance. Vintage lace corsets and ball gowns are my favourite!
Maria Chiara: I feel my style has really changed over the past few years, especially since I cut my hair, from something more girly and artsy to a more minimalist, edgy, timeless style. I really love mixing vintage and retro pieces with contemporary garments and try to mix a rock-inspired vibe with feminine fabrics by incorporating silk for example, making this contrast part of my personal style. I also enjoy incorporating sculptural accessories and jewellery, as it allows me to blend art with fashion.
Who are your style inspirations and icons, past and present?
Timeless icons like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly represent elegance, refined style, and effortless grace, while contemporary celebrities like Zendaya and Rihanna inspire us with their fearless fashion choices and boundary-pushing style. We learnt early on those creative influences can also stem from various sources such as art, music, architecture, and spark inspiration, stimulating fresh ideas that ultimately shape our personal styles and aesthetics!
Giorgio Armani's brand has always been one of our favourites, embodying pure classiness, effortlessly combining refined tailoring with an androgynous edge allowing women to feel confident and empowered in their fashion choices. Having the pleasure of knowing Giorgio Armani personally, we’re inspired by his remarkable talent and genuine warmth, which resonate through his designs and the people around him.
How would Maria-Carolina describe Maria Chiara’s personal style – and vice versa?
Maria Carolina: Chiara's style is a blend of chic, timeless fashion, showcasing the philosophy of ‘less is more’, fused with an edgy boldness that challenges the conventional. Her fashion choices often lean towards the androgynous, blurring the lines between traditionally gendered attire with a confident flair. But sometimes, she switches things up and wears our mom's tailored outfits, particularly during formal events, which really don't match her usual style at all. When that happens, I can't help but tease her a bit, joking that she's lost her style for a moment. It's this fun mix of her usual style and these unexpected choices that make her fashion sense truly her own!
Maria Chiara: As children, my sister and I used to wear the same outfits only in different colours, but as we grew older, we developed our own styles. I would describe Carolina's fashion sense as ‘Hollywood’ glamour, feminine, and colourful! She loves to mix various fabrics and create outfits that accentuate her silhouette and is always the first one to gravitate toward sparkly and opulent dresses, paired with fun accessories and jewellery. Having very long blonde hair, she loves to play with it by adding flowers as decoration to her hairstyles, although I often suggest she considers a less extravagant look!
What are the brands you especially value and love? Are you collectors of revived styles from brands such as Gucci, Fendi etc?
During our courses at Istituto Marangoni, from which we graduated over a year ago, we obtained a comprehensive understanding of the fashion industry from various perspectives. We learned so much from constructing garment prototypes from paper to translating them into tangible creations, designing fashion sketches, developing entire collections, and exploring the process of selecting fabrics/textures/colours, and creating mood boards to ensure a cohesive aesthetic.
Our next ambition is to explore the ateliers of iconic fashion houses, such as Dolce & Gabbana, renowned for infusing their collections with elements from the vibrant cultural tapestry of Southern Italy. One of our all-time favourite collections is when Dolce drew inspiration from Sicilian majolica, translating its vibrant patterns into stunning designs. This creative process deeply inspires us, as we take great pride in the beauty of Southern Italy, a constant source of inspiration for D&G’s creations and as a place that resonates deeply with our familial roots.
Brands like Schiaparelli captivate us with their avant-garde designs and their extraordinary collaborations with Surrealist artists like Salvador Dalí. Their ability to seamlessly blend Surrealistic elements with fashion, creating wearable art, is truly inspiring. And let’s not forget the savoir-faire of brands like Hermès who epitomise quality, combining two essential values – sport and elegance – into their creations.
Why does acquiring vintage items and unique pieces at Sotheby’s appeal to you? How do you engage with Sotheby’s - be it art, fashion, jewellery, etc? What attracts you to our auctions and buying platforms?
Maria Chiara: My sister and I had the privilege of doing an internship at Sotheby's last year, where we worked in the jewelry department (Chiara) and the contemporary art sector (Carolina). We learned so much about the ‘backstage’ of such an important auction house, from cataloguing and research to marketing and client service. We also had the opportunity of enriching our knowledge about various historical periods, cultures, and artistic movements, especially during one of the house's vintage sales.
Maria Carolina: I found it fascinating to delve into the archives of contemporary art, exploring its rich history, diverse painters, and various eras. Additionally, participating in the evaluation of unique paintings and navigating the complex organization leading up to auctions underscored the importance of teamwork, professionalism, and engaging with passionate clients.
Maria Chiara: One of my most cherished experiences was exploring the study of jewelry, where I learned the fundamentals of gemology and gained insight into identifying various precious stones. What resonates with me most about jewels is their timeless nature. From tiaras symbolizing the history of a royal house to a ring representing trust and affection, each piece carries its own emotional significance. While Marilyn Monroe famously said, ‘diamonds are a girl's best friend,’ for me, it's sapphires that hold a special place in my heart!
We are launching a dedicated Fashion department. If you could co-curate the absolute dream Fashion sale together, what would you include?
We envision a collection made from premium materials, with a comfortable fit, and a youthful and dynamic cut. Furthermore, in an era dominated by automation, we recognize the significance of preserving the artistry of local artisans. We would aspire to collaborate with artisans supporting traditional techniques and historical expertise whilst adding a touch of modernity to their designs.
What do you think are the benefits of purchasing via Sotheby’s – such as sourcing hard-to-find pieces, access to curated, and finding unique historical objects. What does Sotheby’s offer that can’t be found elsewhere?
What sets Sotheby's apart is its ability to foster a close-knit community united by a shared admiration for beauty and global culture. With experts spanning diverse fields, and ensuring uniqueness and authenticity, Sotheby's has cultivated a worldwide network that seamlessly connects sellers and buyers who are deeply passionate about art in all its forms.
Banner image: Princess Maria Carolina di Borbone and Princess Maria Chiara di Borbone 2023 in Paris. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images)
