ENGLAND, LATE 17TH CENTURY | Embroidered Silk Pictorial Panel

worked in polychrome floss silks, in satin and short stitch, on a linen ground, a composite panel, possibly previously from a casket, with the present borders being the sides of the lid

Sotheby's, London, Olympia, Oak & Country Sale, 25 April 2007, lot 114

With frame - textile visible:17.5 by 27cm., 7 by 10¾in. Composite panel. The borders have been applied around the main panel, and were probably originally different orientations (so that animals and plants in the correct direction) at the sides of a lid. It works well as a composition now with the side snail and squirrel inwards facing, and upper snail being the correct orientation visually for the present composition. Faces are worked with white coloured threads, and tiny black and brown stitches for the eyes. There are some gaps in stitching and losses of some threads, showing the linen support fabric, which being a natural almond colour, is complimentary and therefore only visible on close inspection. There are some areas probably intentionally left unstitched, which are the buildings in the top left of the picture. Professionally mounted and framed, and bearing label - Arnold Wiggins & Sons, Picture Frame Makers, Carvers & Gilders, Antique and Reproduction Frames, 4 Bury Street, St James's, London SW1 There are no hoops on reverse of frame and it would also need picture wire attached for hanging in future. Charming and very decorative panel, evocative of this period in English textile history.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Within the areas of textile production it was that of embroidery, which remained at this time within the domestic sphere of production and was completed by many women in society, aristocratic women, and daughters of professional families. The techniques were learnt by completing samplers and developed on to more elaborate pieces used for clothing and as decoration for luxury items, the skills to be admired and the subject matters serving as moral lessons. Subjects being naturalistic, pastoral and often being Biblical, and at this time of political and religious upheaval, and loyalties were implied through the inclusion of particular figures. With figures wearing contemporary dress it was ambiguous as to the personalities they were depicting, and the subject matter is not always identifiable, as in the present panel, at this time. Pattern books emerged which had a great influence on design. An Italian, Federico Vinciolo published a pattern book, which due to popularity had to be constantly reprinted. European printers were all influenced by each other. In England illustrations in herbals were initially the source for inspiration, which later in the 17^th century were supplied as patterns by the print sellers and merchants marked satin panels with the designs which could be purchased, worked by the embroiderer in the techniques and colours she desired, and then could be brought back to the merchant to be made up into mirrors or caskets, which could be individualised to the requirements of the client with regard to the contents of the casket. The present panel is likely to have been made up for a casket and possibly the lid, with the side borders having been the applied to the sides of the lid.