Top Jewelry Picks at GemGenève From Cartier to Mauboussin

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It is with perfect timing that Sotheby's upcoming Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale in Geneva coincides with the second year of jewelry fair GemGevève, which features stalls from Ernst Färber, Golay Fils & Stahl and Thomas Faerber amongst many others. Here, Sotheby's Kimberley Smith picks her highlights from the show including a rare Imperial brooch with spectacular provenance.

Follow Kimberley's jewelry adventures on Instagram at @kimberleysmith8.

Top Jewelry Picks at GemGenève From Cartier to Mauboussin

  • A historically significant ‘devant de corsage’, 1834, by Ouizille et Lemoines.
    Provockative Jewels (GemGèneve booth F1)
    “I absolutely love this piece. This devant de corsage is one of the highlights from Provockative Gems and dates back to 1834. What’s so great about this jewel is the quality of the gems, with a beautiful cushion cut diamond in the centre, two richly saturated sapphires – one Burmese and one Ceylon – and an incredible “Pigeon Blood” Burmese unheated ruby at the top. Framed by two emeralds and wonderfully bright diamonds, this historic piece is definitely something to see. Additionally, the provenance makes it even more special: made by one of King Louis Phillipe I's favourite jewellers, Ouizille et Lemoines, this piece is also featured in Henri Vever’s famous book French Jewelry in the 19th Century."
  • 1940s French emerald and diamond Indian-inspired bangle, by Cartier.
    Joseph Saidian & Sons (C1)
    “Can you ever go wrong with 1940s Cartier? Featured in Joseph Saidian & Sons new book, The History of Jewelry, this fabulous bangle is so wearable, and a great example of Indian inspired Cartier.”
  • Fancy intense yellow green diamond framed with pink diamonds.
    Kothari Trading (HK) LTD (C8)
    “We couldn’t walk around the fair without trying on some big diamond rings, notably, Kothari Trading’s incredible selection of coloured diamonds. My favourite had to be this ten carat fancy intense yellow green diamond surrounded by five carats of GIA certified pinks #wouldntsayno.”
  • Sapphire and diamond necklace, 1840s-60s.
    Ernst Färber (C10)
    “I LOVE this piece. Definitely one of the most beautiful antique jewels I saw. Made in the mid-19th century, this incredible jewel exhibited at Ernst Färber contains over 200 carats of unheated Ceylon sapphires, with two Burmese sapphires at the back. Despite its age, with the centre stone being over 40 carats, this is definitely a jewel that can be worn and admired in the modern day.”
  • Art Deco bracelets.
    Golay Fils & Stahl (C9)
    “Of course I love an arm party – and what better way to celebrate than with an Art Deco stack. In the 20s and 30s, this style of bracelet was stacked, sometimes five or six at a time, to create a wonderfully vibrant look. Whether set with just diamonds, or with coloured stones included, these bracelets are the perfect way to recreate an Art Deco look”.
  • Rare Paraiba tourmaline.
    Amba Gem Corp (H13)
    “This is one of the best jewels I have ever seen. Over seven carats, the luminous blue was evenly saturated and when set within a ring, it would brighten up the gloomiest of days.”
  • Diamond tiara, c. 1890.
    Shalom Bronstein Inc. (F3)
    “We all know I love a tiara, and this late 1890s one is a perfect example of the Victorian style. Set in silver and able to convert into a necklace, this would have been a staple in any noble family’s jewelry collection.”
  • Mauboussin butterfly clip, circa 1965.
    Horovitz & Totah SA/Orpheos Art SA (G5-F6)
    “I walked past this brooch and absolutely had to see it close up. In my opinion, it is pretty spectacular, and lo and behold it’s on the cover of a well-known Mauboussin book. Made in 1965 with the most delicate Plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and carved emeralds, it is an example of incredible craftsmanship and an absolute showstopper."
  • Imperial brooch set with rubies, natural pearls and diamonds, c.1965.
    Horovitz & Totah SA (G5-F6)
    “Another highlight from Horovitz and Totah was this rare Imperial brooch set with rubies, natural pearls and diamonds. This noble jewel belonged to Empress of France, Eugenia de Montijo c.1850, the second wife of Napoleon III. To hold something with such an important provenance is always special, and a reminder of why I love exploring different eras of jewelry.”
  • Amethyst brooch, late 19th century.
    Thomas Faerber (E7-D8)
    “This brooch is absolutely amazing. An interesting example of renaissance revival jewelry, this beautiful brooch is set with an 130 carat amethyst and surrounded by seed pearls. A highlight from the Faerber collection, to have such a large gem-stone in a late 19th century jewel is extremely rare, and a pleasure to see.”

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