Alexander Kraft on Building a Watch Collection With Timeless Style

Alexander Kraft on Building a Watch Collection With Timeless Style

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  Patek Philippe, Calatrava, Ref 96 Stainless Steel Wristwatch, Made In 1937
  Estimate CHF 8,000-12,000
  
  Although the Calatrava is one of Patek Philippe’s best-known references, it is currently less favored amongst younger collectors than other sportier models by the brand. As a result, vintage Calatravas can be snapped up quite often at rather tempting prices, making them unbeatable value for money. This example here is a rare steel model of Patek’s iconic Calatrava Ref. 96, and it comes directly from the family of the first owner who purchased it in 1937.

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  A. Lange & Söhne, Sax-O-Mat Langematik Perpetual, Ref 310.025 Platinum Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch With Moon-Phases And 24 Hour Indication, circa 2015
  Estimate CHF 30,000-40,000
  
  As every serious watch aficionado knows, German watchmakerA. Lange & Söhne makes some of the finest watches in the world, their craftsmanship is second to none, even when compared to the most revered, ancient names of Swiss watch making. This example here is a perfect case in point: The Sax-O-Mat Langematik Perpetual features a brilliant movement powering a perpetual calendar with moon phases and 24h indicator, combined with a zero-reset seconds hand (making it ultra-accurate) and is housed in a very handsome platinum case. I would put this watch on a rugged suede strap to give it a more casual, sportier look.

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  Rolex, Floating Cosmograph Zenith Daytona, Ref 16528 Yellow Gold Chronograph Wristwatch With Bracelet, White Porcelain Dial And Suspended Logo, circa 1988
  Estimate CHF 65,000-85,000
  
  Over the past 15 years, the Daytona has become the most coveted model in the family of Rolex watches. This example from the 1990s is an interesting alternative for several reasons: First of all, it is in gold rather than steel; second, it features the sought-after Zenith movement (which was later replaced by Rolex’s own movement); thirdly, it has the shiny “porcelain” lacquer dial which also features the inverted '6' (that actually looks like a '9') on the middle sub dial, and finally, the “Cosmograph” reference on the dial is “floating”, i.e. separated from the four other lines.

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  Rolex, Pre-Daytona, Ref 6234 Stainless Steel Chronograph Wristwatch, circa 1956.
  Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000
  
  This Pre-Daytona reference, the 6234, is interesting because it has already the modern looking Oyster case, but still a slightly more dated looking dial than the subsequent Pre-Daytona 6238 reference. It features the Valjoux 72 movement that was later slightly modified by Rolex to become the 72B in the Ref. 6238 and the 722 as the early Daytona models. This example looks very attractive with the alligator strap and is particularly well preserved for its age.

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  Rolex, 'Big Crown' Submariner, Ref 6538 Stainless Steel Wristwatch With Bracelet And Tropical Dial, circa 1958
  Estimate CHF 150,000-300,000
  
  The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 reference holds a special place in the heart of every James Bond fan as Sean Connery has worn it on numerous occasions on the silver screen. This watch with the Big Crown (and no crown guards) came in 2 versions, the “4 Liner” Chonometer model (with the COSC certification on the dial) and the 2-liner non-COSC dial. Bond famously looks at his in Goldfinger, just after having wriggled out of his wetsuit to reveal his white dinner jacket, and illuminating the dial with his lighter while waiting for the explosion he had set. The patina on this example is lovely, combining a brownish spider dial and almost orange hands with a very crisp, intact red triangle bezel insert. The best of both worlds for a Submariner aficionado.

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  Rolex, Paul Newman Daytona, Ref 6239 Yellow Gold Chronograph Wristwatch With Bracelet, circa 1968
  Estimate CHF 200,000-300,000
  
  This extraordinary watch is the gold version of the first generation of Rolex Daytonas, the reference 6239 with so-called pump pushers. Of those, only a few hundred have been made in gold, and fewer even with the legendary Paul Newman sub dials. Ironically, for a long time, the gold models had been less sought after than the more rugged (but much more common) steel examples, and prices only caught up in recent years. Jerry Lauren, the elder brother of Ralph Lauren and responsible for designer of Men’s Collections, was one of the wise men to invest in such a piece long before it became fashionable, and I admire his watch each time I meet him.

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  Patek Philippe, 'Travel Time', Ref 2597 Yellow Gold Wristwatch with Adjustable 'Jumping Hour' Hand, Made in 1960
  Estimate CHF 60,000-80,000
  
  At first glance, this watch seems to be an “ordinary” Calatrava with small seconds. However, on closer inspection, one notices two pushers on the left-hand side which identify this model as the rare 'jumping hour' (HT = heures sautantes) reference which allowed members of the original “jet set” in the 1950s to adjust the hour hand back and forth to the changing times zones, without, however, having a second hour hand for the “home time zone” like almost all other GMT watches (and the later, second series of this reference). For me, this watch represents true connoisseurship at its most refined and discreet.

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  Vacheron Constantin, Ref 4072 Pink Gold Chronograph Wristwatch, Made In 1952
  Estimate CHF 15,000-30,000
  
  Vacheron Constantin is one of the most storied Swiss brands with brilliant craftsmanship, it has always built watches that are intended for true connoisseurs, and not for those who want to wear a brand statement on their wrist. The Ref. 4072, is a perfect example. One of the iconic Vacheron Constantin references that is especially rare in pink gold, it is just as handsome as its equivalent from Patek Philippe, but is traded at a fraction of the price, and therefore great value for money.

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  Rolex, Daytona, Ref 6265 Stainless Steel Chronograph Wristwatch With Bracelet And Tropical Subsidiary Dials, circa 1972
  Estimate CHF 40,000-60,000
  
  The Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 and 6265 in their non-Paul Newman form are, in their devine 2-tone simplicity, perhaps the most visually perfect watches ever made, and are still regularly emulated by other watchmakers to this day. This example has extremely appealing tropical sub dials of a sublime dark caramel colour that are not the result of hours under an UV lamp, but of a rare natural aging process. Lovely!

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  Patek Philippe, Ref 3974 Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeating Wristwatch With Moon Phases, Leap-Year And 24-Hour Indication, Made In 1990
  Estimate CHF 380,000-600,000
  
  This lot features so many watchmaking superlatives that it is hard to decide where to begin: It is a Grande Complication boasting one of the most complicated movements of the storied Swiss watchmaker, combing a perpetual calendar with moon phases, leap year mechanism, 24h indicator, and as if this wasn’t enough, a minute repeater! In addition, this particular example has the extremely rare distinction of its case having been made by master craftsman Jean-Pierre Hagman with his signature present on the lug and the spare back. A must-have for the serious Patek collector.

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