Celebrating Half a Century of Wine Collecting
An Introduction by Adam Bilbey
W ine collecting is, above all, about passion and sharing. This sale is a celebration of Dr. Gordon Ku’s 50 years of wine collecting, distinguished by a passion and devotion that created one of Singapore’s great cellars. Dr. Ku had a taste for the classic regions, yet his natural curiosity and astute tastes meant that he built up an incredible collection of wines from all over the vinous world. At the heart was his enjoyment of fine wine, especially the perfect marriage between food and wine. This is evident in the variety of styles on offer, with something to match every type of cuisine imaginable.
This wonderful collection came together, bottle by bottle, with the dream of sharing them with friends and loved ones. This is a cellar with such breadth that it will impress the devoted connoisseur and the passionate novice alike, knowing that each wine was thoughtfully chosen with a certain time or moment in mind. It is our honour to share this with wine collectors around the world, in the knowledge that this cellar was built for enjoyment and sharing. We hope you enjoy browsing this wonderful collection, as we all raise a glass to Dr. Gordon Ku’s 50 years of wine collecting.
醇醪飄香半世紀
貝安霖的話
收 藏洋酒離不開藏家的滿腔熱忱和分享精神,本次拍賣以誌古醫生五十年的洋酒收藏歷程,彰顯匯成星洲屈指可數的出色窖藏所需的熱忱和心血。古醫生固然鍾情舊世界經典,不過他生性好奇,品味獨到,因此窖藏中的洋酒來自全球產區,包羅萬有。他喜歡品嚐佳釀,亦懂得欣賞美酒佳餚之間碰撞出的火花——從今次品類繁多上拍酒款即可見一斑,任何想像得到的菜式都能從中覓得匹配的洋酒。
建立這個美妙窖藏的初衷是希望與摯愛親朋一同享受美酒。當中的藏酒兼容並包,每一瓶都為了某個特定時刻或場合精心挑選,無論是經驗老到還是初來埗到的藏家,都難以忽略它們的吸引力。當了解到收藏這些洋酒本來是要與人快樂分享,我們覺得,能夠與全世界的藏家共享這份樂趣,實在非常榮幸。我們衷心希望您在瀏覽酒單之際也感受到這份樂趣。讓我們向古國泰醫生五十年的收藏舉杯致意!
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- Spain
Lot 3827 Vega Sicilia 'Unico' 1968 (2 MAG)
Estimates: HK$35,000-50,000
70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. A real whiff of Burgundy on the nose. Sweet, ripe and classy on the palate. Great finesse of texture. Lots of fruit and attack. Great chocolate at the finish. In 2013, overwhelmingly spicy, expressive and full of personality. The fruit now dominates the chocolate. In full flight and pure joy - seize it whenever you can. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
- USA
Lot 3858 Heitz Cellar, Cabernet Sauvignon, Martha's Vineyard 1974 (4 BT)
Estimates: HK$40,000-55,000
In 2014, I had my greatest bottle of this extraordinary wine, bought when very young and never moved from our own cellar. Excellent level and cork. On this showing, oh, to be 40 again! Deep, dense colour. A bouquet of mint, eucalyptus and transcendental intensity. Cassis, blackberry, liquorice and tar on the palate, like a liqueur sent from the Gods. Far thicker density than any Bordeaux. The taste goes on eternally, ith fabulous sweetness and glycerol. Becomes more tarry and less opulent, but more mystic, as it goes down, inexorably, in the glass. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
- Australia
- Italy
- France
Bordeaux
Lot 3014 Château Lafite 1982 (3 BT)
Estimates: HK$50,000-70,00065% Cabernet Sauvignon in this vintage. On Christmas Eve 2013, an incredibly rich, spicy, leathery nose, multi-layered and meaty. The taste balances fresh acidity with real maturity and it is just so "thick" and velvety. Enormous tannic structure with irony backbone. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
Burgundy
Lot 3260 Richebourg 2009 Domaine Leroy (12 BT)
Estimates: HK$350,000-500,000 - France
Rhone
Lot 3697 Côte Rôtie, La Mouline 1978 Guigal (5 BT)
Estimates: HK$120,000-160,000Wonderfully aromatic nose. Dense, deep complex bouquet. Incredible sweet liquorice on the palate. Such silkiness. Divine. Just poised perfectly on maturity. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
Champagne
Lot 3628 Krug, Clos du Mesnil 1985 (2 BT)
Estimates: HK$22,000-30,000A glorious, crisp, hazelnutty nose. Tremendously young, sprightly and keen. Just so incisive. Limey finish. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
- 1961
- 1970
- 1976
- 1989
- 1990
- 1995
- 1997
- 1998
- 2000
- 2004
- 2005
- 2009
- 2010
- 2014
- 2015
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Petrus 1961Estimates: HK$55,000-75,000
A fascinating fact about this wine is that it finished its alcoholic fermentation in Spring 1962, with the malolactic following in the summer! Incredible curranty nose with a slight affinity with Port. So rich and "earthy", in a totally refined way. Damp earth after rain. Amazing, almost "Porty" wine on the palate. Yet such fresh fruit at the end. Immense. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1970Estimates: HK$70,000-95,000
In 2014, the huge, spicy nose is as great as ever. Incredible to remember that this had only a 12-day maceration, short for Petrus. Rich and opulently-textured on the palate. Defies its age. Meaty, sweet and gummy. One half of that legendary pair of Petrus, 1970 and 1971. I wish we met more often. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1976Estimates: HK$32,000-45,000
Rich, almost treacly nose. Deep, rich chocolate and treacle taste. Thick and tarry. A double magnum was so rich and soft. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1989Estimates: HK$240,000-320,000
From magnum in 2016, this has all the exoticism of the cru, with richness and depth, still evolving with its powerful tannins. Nevertheless, it slips down with great ease! I think, now, the 1990 has more depth and volume, but this is pure joy, fine-textured and with myriad, spicy tastes. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1990Estimates: HK$75,000-100,000
There is a deeper colour on the 1990 than on the 1989 - denser. Incredibly opulent, plummy Petrus. Very voluptuous. Wonderful dried fruit flavours - almost Napa-like. Mocha and mint notes. Extraordinary, ultra-ripe plums and prunes taste. Atypical. Sweet aniseed finish. The great comparison is between this and the 1989. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1995Estimates: HK$30,000-40,000
This was the driest year since 1945, except for 1961. We used to say it was a bit 'reined in', a touch 'Protestant' even, but now it is much more 'Catholic' and uninhibited! Intense, warm leaves nose, the 'maquis', or scented, wild undergrowth, in full bloom. Immensely tempting. Great red fruit taste, brimming over with health and vivacity. Lovely silky finish. A superb mouthful and signature Petrus, hardly surprising in an excellent year for Merlot. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1997Estimates: HK$150,000-200,000
Good colour. Smoky, musky nose. Whiffs of vanillin. Soft, silky, smoky. Delicious light wine. Finish of redcurrants. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 1998Estimates: HK$60,000-80,000
Beautiful, thick, rich, dense, Rubens-like colour. Amazing complexity on the nose - mega-dimensional. Vanillin, cinnamon, intoxicating oriental spices nose. With time, mocha creeps in. This has the absolute fascination of Petrus. Formidable body and fruit on the palate, with enormous depth of flavour, but still elegant. Incredible dark chocolate and black fruit taste. It just never goes away. For me, the greatest and one of the wines of my life. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2000Estimates: HK$320,000-450,000
In 2011, an incredible 'Christmas pudding' bouquet of great richness and density. Plums and cloves, in that inimitable Petrus way. Total, wrap-around, fleshy flavours and texture on the palate. Lush and plush. An absolute, outright star and a rarity in every way. If ever there were a wine that enfolds you, this is it. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2004Estimates: HK$160,000-220,000
A Petrus for keeping - the tannin and acidity give it tremendous structure which is matched by big, black fruit and earthy flavours that run right through it. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2005Estimates: HK$260,000-350,000
This is a great wine. It has it all, fruit, tannin and fresh acidity - in 2005, the acidity went up markedly during the fermentation. Lightly coffee-ish, with cloves, redcurrants and glycerol. The aromatic aftertaste is terrific. I wish I could accompany this wine on its (entire) life's journey! Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2009Estimates: HK$240,000-320,000
40 hl/hectare made this year. A wonderful exuberance right from the beginning. So complete, opulent and with classic structure. The skins were as thick as in 1975 (remember that impressive wine), but here mixed with the beauty of 1990. Velvety violets on the palate with a finish of liquorice. Pretty stunning. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2010Estimates: HK$240,000-320,000
Lovely big, bloomy nose - one immediately knows this is a Bordeaux Great. Ripeness, power and beautiful acidity. Glossy liquorice and glycerol. Fabulous aromatic quality. This is a giant wine. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2014Estimates: HK$160,000-220,000
That wonderful roses, come-and-get-me nose of class and pleasure. The taste is full of roses and liquorice, fine-textured and succulent. Finishes with real power and imposing peacock-tail expansion of flavours that really pull you up. The tannins are there, but in perfect harmony. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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Petrus 2015Estimates: HK$160,000-220,000
40 hl/ha made, the best yield since 2011. The harvest was prolonged, picking in order of the vine age in the parcels. There is great power and complexity, plus high alcohol, which you do not 'see'. A glorious, distinguished nose, followed by so much volume. Glycerol gumminess, 'irony' and sheer opulence over the structure. Coffee notes and sumptuous textures, with everything rolling round the mouth. This is a grand grand vin - make no mistake here. Serena Sutcliffe, MW
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The Wines
The majority if the wines from this cellar have been purchased over the last 50 years from trusted UK, French and Singapore merchants. Many of the wines were purchased on release.
The Cellar
The wines were either stored perfect storage conditions, in a bonded storage facility in the UK. Then when hitting maturity the wines were shipped to Singapore and stored in one of three professional temperature controlled cellars in the family home.
Inspection and Shipping
Wines held in the UK were shipped in a temperature-controlled reefer container to Hong Kong and then inspected by Sotheby’s Wine Specialists Kent Law, Paul Wong and Fiona Hui at Crown Wine Cellars. All wines in Singapore were inspected in September 2019 by Sotheby’s Wine Specialists Adam Bilbey, Kent Law and Jake Elgart. They were then shipped on a dedicated temperature-controlled reefer container to Crown Wine Cellars in Hong Kong.
洋酒:
窖藏洋酒大部分在過去五十年購自信譽良好的英國、法國及新加坡酒商。不少洋酒在推出時購入。
酒窖:
洋酒儲存於英國一個環境理想的保稅倉庫裡,待成熟後運往新加坡,儲存於家族大宅中的三個專業恆溫酒窖之一。
檢驗及搬運:
儲存於英國的洋酒以恆溫貨櫃運抵香港,並由蘇富比洋酒部專家羅子康、王浩東、許定怡前往皇冠酒窖進行檢驗。所有儲存於新加坡的洋酒在2019年9月由蘇富比洋酒部專家貝安霖、羅子康及 Jake Elgart 仔細檢驗,洋酒隨後裝載於專業恆溫貨櫃中,運抵香港皇冠酒窖。
Château Margaux 2009: For Siu Mei Roast (燒味)
Cantonese siu mei roasted meats like char siu, roasted pork belly, roasted goose, tend to be quite fatty. In order to cut through the rich proteins, the pairing calls for a bigger red with some tannins. We also need some oak to go with the toast, and fruits to go with the sweet glaze. A rich and fruity 2009 Margaux, chosen here, will go brilliantly with the dishes.
叉燒、燒腩仔、燒鵝……廣東燒味肥美可口,要平衡豐腴肉質,酒體宏碩、丹寧明顯的紅酒是必然之選。燒烤、蜜汁與酒液裡的橡木、水果氣息相輔相成,2009年瑪歌堡佳釀濃郁且洋溢果香,與燒味可謂天作之合。
Clos de la Roche, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2002 Domaine Ponsot: For Turnip Cake (蘿蔔糕)
A Chinese New Year must-have, turnip cake is made of flour, white radish, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, dried scallop, and mushrooms – a mixture which is first steamed and then pan fried. The richness and oiliness of the turnip cake requires a wine with acidity like Pinot Noir. The slightly herbal and savory backbone of the wine will also complement well with the savory spicy turnip cake.
蘿蔔糕是中國農曆新年的傳統食物,以麵粉、白蘿蔔、臘腸、蝦米、乾瑤柱、冬菇等食材製成,蒸熟後可煎香上桌。味道濃郁、油香四溢的蘿蔔糕正好佐以酸度出色的黑皮諾葡萄酒,芳香中隱約滲出的草本氣息與蘿蔔糕的鹹香相得益彰。
Château d’Yquem 2011: For Thousand-Year Egg with Pickled Ginger (酸薑皮蛋)
Sounds odd? This could be the Chinese version of foie gras with Sauternes! The weighty, glossy, slightly nutty wine levels with the creaminess of the egg yolk beautifully. The complement of the sweet and sour pickled ginger goes perfectly well with the wine’s dried fruit flavors, both together give the palate an easy sweetness but at the same time acidity that keeps it from fatigue.
聽起來天方夜譚?這可是中菜版的鵝肝配蘇玳甜酒。酒體華麗、略帶果仁香的伊甘堡佳釀與綿滑的蛋黃來一場美妙邂逅;酸酸甜甜的薑片與酒液中的乾果味彼此契合,使口腔充滿甜味,挾帶的酸勁卻使味道甜而不膩。
Chablis, Blanchot 2004 Domaine Raveneau or Bâtard Montrachet 2005 Domaine Leflaive: With Hainan Chicken Rice (海南雞飯)
With the background of the consignor it seems only right that we include a Singaporean dish here. The Hainan chicken rice basically consists of poached chicken and seasoned “oil rice.” The chicken is perfectly cooked, served cool, and has a light and delicate flavor, so logically, it would go well with an equally light and delicate wine from a cooler region – for example, Chablis. However, the dish is served with accompanying sauces, including a black sweet sauce, a ginger sauce, and a chili sauce, and since the seasoned rice is prepared with chicken oil, stock, and sometimes extra herbs, they add a bit of body and flavors. A richer white Burgundy would be more suitable here.
考慮到藏家的家世,在餐單裡加入一道新加坡名菜無可厚非。海南雞飯以白切雞搭配香料油飯,雞肉的火候恰到好處,冰鎮後入口,味道清淡細緻,理論上與來自氣候清涼的產地——例如夏布利的清新佳釀相當融洽。不過海南雞通常伴以甜醬油、薑蓉和辣椒醬,米飯則與雞油、雞湯加上香料烹煮,為菜式增添一絲內涵和風味,因此搭配略更濃郁的布艮地白酒更為適宜。
Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs 2005: Pairs with Dim Sum (點心)
Although dim sum is an umbrella term describing a variety of dishes, Champagne is generally a good choice to pair with them all. Common condiments for dim sum are soy sauce, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce, so something of higher acidity is needed here and Champagne is a great option. With fried dim sum, a chilled, acidic Champagne can counteract the oiliness. For steamed, doughy dim sum a creamy aged Champagne could do the trick.
點心款式繁多,但是最佳伴侶非香檳莫屬。醬油、醋、喼汁是搭配點心的常見佐料,故應配以酸度較高的葡萄酒,香檳無疑是理想之選。以煎炸方式烹調的點心需要冰涼酸爽的香檳來中和油膩感,麵粉類的蒸點心則與口感順滑的陳年香檳水乳交融。
Côte Rôtie, La Turque 1999 Guigal or Scharzhofberger Spätlese 1990 Egon Müller: With Peking Duck (北京填鴨)
Pinot Noir is often a go-to pairing for Peking duck (or just duck in general), but if we want to try something off the beaten track, a Rhone red can also be a good choice. Peking duck can be quite greasy, and the Rhone will be able to cut through the fats, and likely to work better with the spring onion and the sauce. Also depending on the sweetness of the lacquer on the duck skin, how much and what kind of sauce you use, or if dipping the skin in sugar Beijing-style, something slightly sweet would be great – for instance, an aged German Riesling. We don’t have to limit the choices with reds!
黑皮諾葡萄酒是北京填鴨或其他鴨肉菜式的慣常搭配,若想另闢蹊徑,隆河谷紅酒也是不錯的選擇。北京填鴨較為油膩,隆河谷佳釀有助消解脂肪的肥膩感,跟蔥和調味料亦更為匹配。另外,燒鴨外皮塗有蜜汁,採用何種醬汁、是否用蘸糖的正宗北京吃法都讓我們有第二種選擇--微甜的餐酒,例如德國雷司令陳釀,完全毋須將眼界局限在紅酒世界裡。
Vega Sicilia 'Unico' 1995: For Braised Abalone (燜鮑魚)
Abalone is cooked and soaked in rich-flavored sauce, which is why it is best paired with a red wine. With the thick sauce and the springy “tong sum” texture of the abalone, we don’t have to be shy on the body of the wine. Something round and not too tannic will be good. For example, a mature Tempranillo from Vega Sicilia will work the magic!
在濃醬裡燜煮的鮑魚最好與紅酒一同享用。濃稠的醬汁配上彈牙的溏心口感,配搭的酒體渾圓結實更佳。口感圓潤且不帶強烈丹寧的酒款恰如其分,來自 Vega Sicilia 酒莊的 Tempranillo 葡萄熟釀相信能夠一展魔力!