by Serena Sutcliffe, M.W.
It gives us great pleasure to bring to auction the highly anticipated next chapter of an outstanding collection, garnered by a great wine lover and remarkable philanthropist. Wine lovers are often generous, spurred on by the desire to share fabulous drinking experiences with like-minded friends, but when this is paired with real philanthropy, over many decades, it is a tribute to both the person and wine itself. Combining this with a distinguished career cannot be easy, but here we have this in classic, and perhaps rare, form.
The collection, in its entirety, is 'staggering', in the nicest possible way. It covers the whole spectrum of winemaking at the highest level and the selection shows knowledge, perspicacity and great taste. The dominant forces in this first 'tranche' of this treasure trove are Bordeaux and Burgundy - and you could 'buy blind' throughout the whole range.
The Bordeaux features First Growths, Super Seconds and jewel-like Right Bank properties in gold standard vintages. Some might be approached right now, while others could be put aside for a few years, coming as they do from a modern Golden Age of winemaking. All are true monuments to one of France's greatest assets, the vineyards of Bordeaux.
And there is the breathtaking Burgundy in this sale. The cellar doors are open here to the most admired domains in the Côte d'Or, where it is often difficult to obtain a 'foot in the door', let alone an allocation from these regrettably tiny plots of precious vines.
Everyone has their favourites but, for me, the extraordinary line-up from Domaine Rousseau has to be seen to be believed. The great Charles Rousseau left us in 2016, but his vineyards and philosophy remain with his son Eric, now aided by his daughter, and the seamless quality of the wines is a given. What is it about a Rousseau wine? I sometimes think it is the fragrant, even intoxicating bouquet that gives it away on impact, but there is also the beguiling fruit, the texture and the length. As I write this, I am enjoying a 'simple' village Gevrey Chambertin 1996 from this unique family property - but in this sale you can sample the stand-out Rousseau Grands Crus....
Another personal passion is the wine from Domaine Bruno Clair, so pure and true. However, other 'giants' also abound, from DRC to de Vogüé, Domaine des Lambrays to de Montille, Dujac to Faiveley, Fourrier to Jean Grivot, Méo-Camuzet to d'Angerville, Sylvain Cathiard to Robert Chevillon, Roumier to Joseph Drouhin. If I am honest, this is merely 'scratching the surface' of this star-studded collection.
My ultimate tip in this sale is to see what is tucked away elsewhere, from California's vinous nobility to Champagne and Italy's most impressive bottles. Careful study, and vigorous bidding, will bring great rewards from this sale!
–Serena Sutcliffe, M.W.
Honorary Chairman, Sotheby’s Wine
施慧娜（葡萄酒大師MW）
今次上呈的窖藏由一位資深洋酒鑑藏家兼傑出慈善家精心羅致，出類拔萃，能為如此超卓的窖藏打開新篇章，另覓新主，蘇富比與有榮焉。愛好美酒之人往往慷慨大方，總想與志同道合的朋友分享佳酩。當藏酒熱忱與熱心公益的匡濟精神結合起來，且數十年來一直如此，這股熱忱就是對藏主和美酒的崇高敬意。藏主本身事業成就卓著，能同時擁有這番收藏熱情委實不易，今場拍賣的典範佳作以至罕見珍品，也許是這份精神的最佳體現。
今季窖藏推出的酒款表現堪稱「驚豔」，但如此盛譽實不為過，拍品涵蓋展現頂級釀酒工藝完整譜系的各項出品，甄選過程反映出藏主深厚的洋酒知識、敏銳的洞察力和出眾的品味。這座寶庫的首批珍品以波爾多和布艮地佳釀為主，即使買家從中全程「盲選」，也能覓得品質上乘的芳醇佳作。
波爾多美酒方面，拍賣精選一級酒莊和超二級莊出產的珍酩，以及燦若珠寶的右岸名莊出品，悉數出自黃金年份。作為現代釀酒工藝黃金年代的精緻產物，個別佳釀已經成熟適飲，其餘尚可多窖藏數年。場上每瓶佳釀都見證著波爾多酒莊作為法國最珍貴資產之一的永恆魅力。
今場拍賣的布艮地佳釀更教人屏息以待，窖藏包羅金丘區最受推崇的酒莊精品，然而金丘區向來產量稀少，區內出品往往質量極高，買家入手已殊不容易，更遑論如藏主般能從細小的園區獲得珍貴的購買配額。
每人都各有偏好，但對我來說，Rousseau出戰的非凡陣容得親眼看見才能相信。2016年第二代莊主Charles Rousseau去世，他的莊園和釀酒哲學如今由兒子Eric繼承，孫女從旁協助打理，出品一如既往般品質卓越，自不待言。那麼Rousseau佳釀有何魅力？有時我認為是撲鼻而來的芳醇氣息，只要初次邂逅即可察覺端倪，但品飲後的迷人果香、細膩口感和悠揚餘韻，更教人一試傾心。提筆至此，我也在品嚐藏主家族珍藏的「普通」村莊級酒1996年Gevrey Chambertin，而眼見今次上拍的佳釀中，買家有機會品嚐的是Rousseau特級園的耀眼之作⋯⋯
我另一心儀之選是Bruno Clair酒莊的葡萄酒，酒感純淨，純美無瑕。不過，今場拍賣酒壇大名不勝枚舉：從羅曼尼康帝到de Vogüé、從Domaine des Lambrays到de Montille、從Dujac到Faiveley、從Fourrier到Jean Grivot、從Méo-Camuzet到d'Angerville、從Sylvain Cathiard到Robert Chevillon、從Roumier到Joseph Drouhin等等。坦白說，這裡提及的還不過是這座星光熠熠的寶庫中「冰山一角」。
關於今次拍賣的購藏秘訣，我建議盡量發掘隱藏於角落的珍品，從加州的酒界貴族，到陳年香檳和意大利最精彩的經典佳釀都值得出手。大家只要細心琢磨，積極出價，定當在今場覓得心頭所好！
– 施慧娜（葡萄酒大師MW）
蘇富比洋酒名譽主席
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