L ondon’s sale of Fine Jewels presents a selection of Fine Jewels for discerning collectors looking for rare and iconic designs, with pieces ranging from the mid-19th century through to contemporary designs from houses such as Boivin, Bulgari and Cartier.
The Collection of Susy Dyson
Susy Dyson exotic model career and fascinating social life led her on a lifelong journey and friendship with renowned jeweler, René Boivin. The jewels of René Boivin were much admired by Dyson and Chandon de Briailles for their artistic flair and exquisite craftsmanship. This collection of Boivin jewels offered here for auction at Sotheby's presents a unique opportunity to appreciate and acquire later designs of Boivin which belong to the era of Jacques Bernard who took over the brand in the 1970s.
Lapis lazuli and enamel bracelet, 1860sDesigned as a series of oval lapis lazuli sections bordered by a scallop-edged frame of red and black enamel, spaced by further sections of lapis, length approximately 185mm, French assay marks and maker's mark.
Emerald and diamond pendant, 1890sThe claw-set oval emerald weighing approximately 31.0 carats, each claw set with a rose-cut diamond, issuing a graduated knifewire tassel set with circular-cut diamonds, to an unassociated late 19th century diamond surmount.
Colour change sapphire, natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1900The rectangular panel set to the centre with an oval colour-change sapphire weighing approximately 6.0 carats, the corners highlighted with rose-cut diamonds, the outer frame set with cushion-shaped diamonds, the corners set with natural pearls, suspending a detachable natural pearl drop.
Seed pearl and diamond dress set, circa 1910Comprising: a pair of cufflinks and three dress buttons, each designed as a wheel set with circular- and rose-cut diamonds and split pearls, French import assay marks, case stamped Cartier.View Lot
Cartier | Lacque burgauté vase, 1926The tapered vase with lacquer panels inlaid with mother-of-pearl depicting bucolic Chinese scenes, the shoulders and rim applied with red lacquer, signed Cartier, French assay marks.View Lot
Diamond brooch, 1930sOf openwork geometric design, set throughout with circular-cut diamonds.
Sapphire and diamond ring, 1940sOf ridged bombé design, centring on a navette motif set with circular-cut sapphires and single-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, centring on a cushion-shaped diamond weighing approximately 1.34 carats, size N, French import assay marks.
René Boivin | Gem set ring, 'Égaltine', 1950sDesigned as a flowerhead set with vari-coloured cushion-shaped sapphires and a step-cut brown zircon, size K½, French assay mark and maker's mark.
Pol Bury | Ring, 'Spheres', 1960sThe concave plaque set with articulated spheres, between bifurcated shoulders, size J, signed Pol Bury, numbered 22/150, French assay marks and maker's mark.
Poiray | Pink sapphire, malachite and diamond ring, 1970sClaw-set with an oval pink sapphire, the shoulders set with sections of ridged malachite, to a similarly designed shank, highlighted with a brilliant-cut diamond, size L, signed Poiray, French assay mark and maker's mark.
Bulgari | Ancient coin ring, 'Monete', 1980sCollet-set with an ancient coin, the underside inscribed GAVL MARSEILLE 3rd CENT BC, size Q, signed Bulgari, partial Italian maker's mark.
Cartier is known to be one of the greatest jewellery houses in the world, creating exquisite and vibrant jewels inspired by the four corners of the globe.
Not only do we have the pleasure of offering a number of signed jewels by Cartier in this sale but we are pleased to showcase a selection of beautifully hand-crafted objects of virtue such as the lacquer vase, clock, and lighters. This selection of pieces showcases Cartier’s design philosophy, to find and be inspired by beauty wherever it is, whether it is from distant cultures or everyday objects around us. The lacquer vase inlaid with mother-of-pearl and the guilloché enamel frame are the perfect embodiments of this philosophy. The former, a commission by James de Rothschild in 1926 as a Christmas present, was inspired by the beautifully crafted 19th century lacquer burgauté snuff bottles made in Japan for the local Japanese market. The latter was part of Cartier’s Russian-inspired range, which used a similar variety of guilloché enameling techniques already popularized by Fabergé.
These vibrant and brightly coloured objects added lightness to the early 20th century European fashion for dark and artificially gloomy interiors.
Continuing the recent success of the Sotheby’s Graff capsule collections, we are pleased to present another selection of jewels by the famed diamantaire. For more than 50 years, the House of Graff has represented some of the world’s rarest gemstones.
Charismatic and visionary founder Laurence Graff’s extraordinary success rests on his innate understanding of diamonds and his insistence on perfectly proportioned cuts, optimizing the brilliance, color and overall quality of every stone he handles.