Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Ref. 1485 is one of the most unusual and technically innovative vintage wristwatches produced by Patek Philippe during the 1940s. Introduced in 1940, the reference was manufactured exclusively in stainless steel (a gold version with hooded lugs was also made, and given the Reference 1486) and is considered among Patek Philippes earliest experimental waterproof square cases. Production is believed to have totaled approximately 200 examples across its two series, making it exceptionally rare today.

Visually, the ref. 1485 is distinguished by its compact rectangular/square proportions, stepped lugs, and highly engineered Taubert-made “Decagonal” style waterproof case construction. Rather than a traditional snap or screw back, the case utilized a patented sliding bar system that locked the two-part case together, an novel and advanced solution for water resistance at the time. Early examples housed the calibre 10-110 or 10-105, while later watches received the calibre 10-200.

The reference is historically important to the brands evolution as part of Patek Philippe’s early waterproof wristwatch development. Surviving examples are scarce, especially those in good condition due to moisture incursion over the years. The models desirability and collectability have risen sharply in recent years as the collectors increasingly values unconventional steel sports watches from Patek Philippe, especially those examples from the pre-war and immediate post-war period.