Cartier, Paris

Nicknamed the “Pebble” for its smooth, rounded edges, this watch artfully balances contrasting symmetries: an 18ct yellow gold circular case with T-bar Vendôme lugs encloses a square dial, framed by a matching square bezel that secures the crystal. The interplay between soft curves and defined angles creates a visually striking design, blending elegance with geometric precision.

Introduced by Cartier Paris around 1943, this design foreshadows another iconic model introduced in 1972 by Cartier London under Jean-Jacques Cartier’s direction. Produced in Cartier’s Wright & Davies workshop, the 1972 model similarly featured a circular case and a square bezel and dial, but with a distinct twist—the square was rotated 45 degrees, creating a lozenge shape with the hour markers placed at the diamond-shaped peaks of 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. This lozenge configuration has an earlier precedent in Cartier’s 1912 Nain Jaune model, which also featured a square bezel and dial set within a square case, rotated 45 degrees to create an off-set, diamond-like effect. This innovative use of geometry and rotation across the decades underscores Cartier’s enduring commitment to creative, avant-garde watch design. The gold brick-link bracelet was supplied for the watch in the U.S. by the Kreisler jewellery firm.