The Shapes of Cartier
Cartier, London
Octagonal | A rare yellow gold octagonal wristwatch with original yellow and pink gold deployant buckle, Circa 1976
Session begins in
June 15, 02:00 PM GMT
Estimate
70,000 - 100,000 USD
Lot Details
Description
Dial: white dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner hexagonal black frame, blued steel épée hands
Caliber: 9¼’’’ calibre P838 circular movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Trior shock absorber
Movement number: main plate numbered 2'087'968
Case: 18k yellow gold octagonally shaped case, concealed t-bar lugs to case back, back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘B’ for 1976 and (JC) Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark
Case number: outside case back numbered 1'824
Closure: 18k yellow and pink gold deployant clasp with D-shaped clasp, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘B’ for 1976, (JC) Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 1'824
Size: 32.5 mm diameter
Accessories: none
Gordon, George, Cartier - A Century of Cartier Wristwatches, Hong Kong: Timeless Elegance, 1989. See p. 365 for a drawing of this model.
The unconventional octagonal case of this Cartier wristwatch represents a striking departure from traditional circular or rectangular designs. Bold yet harmonious, its distinctive geometry highlights the creative exploration of shape and form undertaken by designers and craftsmen during this highly experimental period at Cartier’s London workshops.
Concealed lugs ensure the case’s architectural integrity remains uninterrupted, allowing the striking octagonal form to take centre stage. Contrasting yet perfectly balanced in its classic minimalism, the white dial features Cartier’s traditional Roman numerals and slender épée hands, while an inner black linear border subtly echoes the framework of the case.
During this period, Cartier’s London workshop delved into the Maison’s extensive archives for inspiration, reinterpreting historic designs in a modern context. The use of an octagonal case was a rare but significant departure from conventional watch forms, yet it was not without precedent. Cartier had occasionally used octagonal-shaped cases in pocket watches during the Edwardian and Art Deco periods, demonstrating an early interest in geometric experimentation By drawing from these past influences while embracing contemporary trends, Cartier London found a way to innovate while remaining deeply connected to the brand’s heritage.
The 1960s were a transformative era in watchmaking, with avant-garde aesthetics shaped by modern art, architecture, and the post-war cultural revolution. Cartier London, in particular, embraced this climate of creativity, exploring bold geometric forms that resonated with the evolving tastes of the time. As jewellery and industrial design increasingly favoured sharp angles and unconventional structures, Cartier London responded with daring, architectural timepieces that embodied both innovation and luxury.
This wristwatch reflects that spirit, redefining traditional elegance while preserving the Maison’s reputation for refined craftsmanship. Its tactile gold case, accented by the striking octagonal bezel, achieves a harmonious balance of creativity and tradition.