Rolex

Introduced in 1967, reference 1680 marked an important milestone in the evolution of the Submariner as the first reference of the model to feature a date. While predominantly produced in stainless steel, reference 1680 was also the first Rolex dive watch to be offered in yellow gold, transforming the utilitarian tool watch into a luxurious sports watch.

The present example is particularly captivating for its beautifully aged tropical “nipple” dial, characterised by its applied conical gold hour markers. Originally blue, the dial has naturally transformed into a striking purple, with only subtle traces of its original blue remaining around the periphery. The contrast with the vivid blue bezel makes this transformation all the more striking, while the warmth of the yellow gold case beautifully frames the changing colours of the dial.

Preserved in beautiful overall condition, the present reference 1680 combines the glamour of the early gold Submariner with an extraordinary example of natural ageing.