Cartier, London

Cartier, London 

Tank Cintrée

A rare yellow gold curved rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1972-73

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands

Calibre: 7’’’ oval movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring

Movement number: numbered to backplate 1'029'358

Case: 18k yellow gold curved rectangular case, polished tops to the brancards, satin finished case sides and crossbars, lugs with spring bars, back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire set crown

Case number: outside case back stamped 1'373, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark

Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, engraved Cartier 18k, stamped BC and with further lozenge cartouche

Size: 42 mm length x 20.5 mm width

Accessories: none

The Cartier Tank Cintrée, first introduced in 1921, is one of the most elegant and enduring watch designs of the 20th century. Defined by its elongated, slim rectangular case that gracefully curves to follow the natural contour of the wrist, the Cintrée was a triumph of both ergonomics and aesthetics. Unlike many rectangular watches, which rely on hinges or friction fittings, the Cintrée’s case back is securely pressed into the upper case and held by small screws, creating a seamless integration that ensures a sleek and refined profile. Over the decades, the model has remained a rare and highly sought-after timepiece, typically available only by special order. During the late 1960s, a time of cultural and artistic transformation, Cartier London introduced its own interpretation of the Tank Cintrée, setting it apart from the Paris version with several distinctive design modifications. This period – shaped by the energy of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Mary Quant’s revolutionary fashion movement – saw London become a global centre for creativity and reinvention. Cartier London fully embraced this spirit, breaking from tradition to produce some of the most unconventional and daring wristwatches in its history. The London Tank Cintrée reflected this shift with its exaggerated curvature, creating a sculptural form that closely hugged the wrist. Its creamy white dial, stripped of a traditional minute track, emphasised its minimalist yet striking aesthetic. Meanwhile, the Roman numerals – stretched, thick, and bold – dominated the dial space, amplifying its avant-garde character. These elements, combined with the pronounced curve of the case, transformed the Cintrée into a powerful statement piece, bridging the gap between classic elegance and modern innovation – features that were also found in the London Maxi Oval.

The London Tank Cintrée was produced in different sizes, From 1945 to 1974, Cartier London was led by Jean-Jacques Cartier, son of Jacques Cartier. Having apprenticed in Paris, Jean Jacques brought a deep passion for design and craftsmanship, steering the London workshop toward some of Cartier’s most radical and inventive timepieces. His tenure coincided with the cultural revolution of the Swinging Sixties, inspiring a new wave of independent creativity within Cartier London. Watches such as the Crash, Maxi Oval, and Pebble were developed exclusively in London during this era, each retaining the essence of the Cartier DNA while boldly reinterpreting it for a new era. Jean-Jacques worked closely with Rupert Emmerson, Cartier London’s chief designer, to bring these extraordinary timepieces to life. Once designs were finalized, each watch was meticulously handcrafted at the Wright & Davies workshop on Rosebery Avenue, under the leadership of Albert ‘Sam’ Mayo. Producing the case of a London Cintrée required over 35 hours of craftsmanship, with additional components, such as leather straps and deployant buckles, made in-house. The final assembly took place at Cartier’s Bond Street workshop under Eric Denton’s supervision. This painstaking process ensured that each watch was a masterpiece of exclusivity and exceptional quality, often requiring weeks or even months to complete. Predominantly produced between 1966 and 1974, Cartier London wristwatches from this era remain among the rarest and most extraordinary ever made. As the only Cartier branch still owned by a family member, Jean-Jacques Cartier’s London workshop carved out a distinctive identity, balancing bold creativity with impeccable craftsmanship. His visionary approach secured Cartier London’s place in the brand’s illustrious history, producing watches that continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.