Cartier

Cartier

London retailed

A rare, unusual and very attractive pink gold and jade brooch watch with concealed dial, Circa 1938

Dial: pink gold dial signed Cartier France, vertical satin finish, crenellated border, mounted above a silvered movement cover, blued steel epée hands

Calibre: 5½’’’ broad baguette-form Swiss unsigned movement, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring

Case: 9k pink gold case, ribbed central section shuttered to conceal the dial, the ends of the capsule-form case polished, the lower polished mount sliding upwards, thereby revealing the dial as the ribbed central section partially recesses into the upper mount, lower mount set with jade and diamond-set finial, brooch front arranged with jade roundels in imitation of flowers or blossoms, yellow gold ribbon-form ties beneath, notched winding crown engraved Made in France, back of brooch etch engraved Cartier London, inside movement case back with [E&K] Encausse and Krasker’s maker’s mark, London import hallmarks, date letter ‘B’ for 1937-38 and [J.C.] Jacques Cartier punch mark

Case number: 3'789, 3'436 London Subsidiary Stock No. • 5825 •

Size: 80 mm length x 17.5 mm width

Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch

This capsule-shaped brooch watch ingeniously conceals the dial within a central, finely ribbed section, while the ends of the capsule are highly polished, adding to its elegant finish. By pressing the polished mounts together, the lower section of the capsule slides upwards, revealing the dial hidden behind the ribbed centre. This mechanism is reminiscent of Edmond Jaeger’s patent No. 157'094, filed on 16 April 1931, which described a revolutionary sliding cover design for timepieces. In this brooch watch, the mechanism is flawlessly integrated into the case, ensuring that the decorative pendant’s additional function as a watch is virtually imperceptible when the case is closed and the dial concealed from view.

This innovative sliding action not only protects the dial when not in use but also introduces an element of mystery and sophistication to the design. The dial itself is distinctive, featuring a crenellated border and set against a silvered movement cover, which is visible through the cut-outs of the crenellation, adding depth and contrast to the overall aesthetic. The dial’s concealed nature exudes discreet elegance, allowing the piece to be worn as a jewel without immediately revealing its function as a timepiece. For a lady, it offered a subtle and graceful way to check the time without drawing attention – an attribute that aligned with the social conventions of the era and Cartier’s commitment to blending functionality with refined artistry.

The sprung and hinged brooch pins, which allows this piece to be attached to clothing, is cleverly disguised by the jade spheres on the front. Arranged together, the spheres evoke the appearance of f lower buds or blossoms, while the gold loops at the base resemble leaves or ribbon-like elements, artfully tying the “bouquet” together. This design shows the influence of Art Deco, with its emphasis on bold geometric forms and luxurious materials, while seamlessly integrating the naturalistic motifs that were a hallmark of the jeweller’s creativity in the early 20th century.