Cartier, London

Cartier, London

Half Tank 

A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1965-66

Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands

Calibre: 7’’’ oval movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif f lector shock absorber

Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case smooth brancards with rounded ends, thin crossbars, back secured by 4 screws to case sides, gold screw-set bar lugs, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown,

Case number: outside case back hand stamped 7'348, • 9989 •, bezel interior scratch numbered • 9989 •, inside case back London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘k’ for 1965-66 and [JC] Jean Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped • 9989 •

Closure: blue unsigned alligator strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, hallmarked London, date letter ’k' for 1965 66 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, numbered 0'826

Size: 23.5 mm length x 17.5 mm width

Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch

Known as the Half Tank, this model was roughly 25% smaller than the Tank J.J.C. and is a hybrid that sits somewhere between the Normale and the J.J.C. The Half Tank has the Normale’s broad brancards with flat tops and curved ends and these are combined with the slimmer crossbars of the J.J.C. In 1922, Cartier London established the English Art Works (EAW), followed by the Wright & Davies workshop in 1939, dedicated to producing watch cases for Cartier. Initially, they focused on ladies’ watches, but from 1950 began making Paris models in their London workshop, likely with Cartier Paris’ support - the latter must have assisted with the supply of Jaeger LeCoultre/EWC movements and the maquettes for producing the iconic Parisian watch models. Cartier London’s independent watch production was almost certainly driven in response to the high taxes and import duties introduced after the Second World War, making local production more cost-effective. Jean-Jacques Cartier, who led the London branch from 1945 to 1974, focused on innovation and exceptional craftsmanship, producing some of Cartier’s most creative and radical wristwatch designs.

London’s own designs were independent of Cartier Paris, yet remained true to the brand’s aesthetic, with the Cartier run Wright & Davies workshop handling much of their production. The watches were handmade in small numbers, ensuring that no two pieces were exactly alike. This focus on quality and exclusivity, combined with Jean-Jacques’ leadership, allowed the London branch to maintain its reputation for high-end, original design while carving out its own distinct identity. It is these qualities that have made the London models so desirable and collectible today.