Cartier, Paris

Cartier, Paris

An extremely rare and slim yellow gold openface keyless lever watch with black galvanic dial, Circa 1930

Dial: black galvanic dial signed Cartier, applied gold Breguet numerals, pearled outer minute track, recessed subsidiary seconds with gilded Arabic numeral track, gilded cathedral hands

Calibre: 17’’’ movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, Breguet hairspring

Movement number: movement plate beneath dial with pearled finish and numbered 19'368

Case: 18k yellow gold case, polished back engraved with a coat of arms beneath the crest of a plumed helmet, two-pronged pendant with triangular bow stamped with French eagle’s head assay marks and rubbed Edmond Jaeger punch marks

Case number: internal case body rim with French eagle’s head assay mark and hand stamped 23'847, 19'368, inside case back with French eagle’s head assay, punch mark and hand stamped 19'368, outer case back rim stamped 47

Size: 45 mm diameter

Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch

Exceptionally rare to find on a Cartier watch from this period, the black dial was created using the galvanic technique. As described by Dr. H. Crott in his monograph book, The Dial, the process began with mirror polishing the dial, followed by the application of a gilded layer to its surface. A temporary varnish coating (épargne) was then applied to protect the pearled minute track and seconds track calibrations before the black galvanic coating—often requiring several layers—was applied. The épargne was subsequently dissolved, revealing the polished gilded minute track beneath. Finally a glossy Zapon protective lacquer was added followed by the handmade gold Breguet hour indexes which were meticulously riveted to the dial using a special punch and file.

In the photograph of the reverse side of the dial, the original file marks left by the dial maker can be seen around the feet (prongs) of each numeral. At the centre of the back of the dial, small areas of the gilded layer are visible, offering a glimpse of the production stages. As the back of the dial was never intended to be seen, it was not necessary to create a finished surface. This has therefore left behind a charming testament to the artisan’s work, preserving the raw marks of their craftsmanship. The dial was almost certainly manufactured by Stern Frères of Geneva, the most renowned vintage dial manufacturer. Known for their exceptional craftsmanship, Stern Frères produced dials of unparalleled quality and variety for esteemed watchmakers, including Audemars Piguet, Breguet, LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Vacheron Constantin. Their work spanned a range of techniques, from silvered and galvanic finishes to guilloché engine turned patterns and intricate cloisonné enamel designs, as well as precision-calibrated chronograph and calendar dials. Stern’s dials have played a key role in the enduring appeal of vintage watches, with their craftsmanship directly contributing to the value and desirability of many iconic timepieces. The finest examples of their artistry can be found on many of the most significant, valuable and collectible vintage watches in existence today.