Verdura

The ‘Wrapped Heart’ brooch stands among Verdura’s most familiar motifs, first conceived in 1941 when actor Tyrone Power commissioned a ruby-set heart, “tied” in gold as a Christmas gift for his wife, Annabella. Reinterpreted here entirely in diamonds and encased within a grid of gold ropetwist, the present example reflects the many variations the ‘Wrapped Heart’ has taken over the decades. While used here as a framing device, ropetwist also serves as a defining element in Verdura’s work, forming complete compositions such as the long chain in Lot 58, as well as appearing as a recurring accent across numerous designs.

Also counted among Verdura’s most successful design elements, the Maltese Cross emerged during his early collaboration with Coco Chanel, for whom he created a pair of cuffs adorned with the motif. Drawing on Byzantine mosaics, he carried their rich colors and patterns into fields of gem-set surfaces—an approach applied to later works, including the brooch offered as lot 59.