View full screen - View 1 of Lot 175. Colored stone, cultured pearl and diamond brooch.

Cartier

Colored stone, cultured pearl and diamond brooch

Session begins in

October 8, 12:00 PM GMT

Estimate

10,000 - 15,000 EUR

Bid

11,000 EUR

Lot Details

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Description

Depicting a bird in his nest decorated with a gold grass stalk, the body composed of a cabochon ruby, calibré-cut emeralds and sapphires, enhanced with single- and circular-cut diamonds, the woven gold nest decorated with cultured pearl eggs.

  • Measuring approximatively 10 x 30mm
  • Signed Cartier, numbered
  • French assay marks for 18 carat gold and platinum, maker's mark
  • Circa 1950
  • Gross weight 33.37 grams
  • With a pouch
  • One deficient cultured pearl

The bird motif occupies a recurring place within Cartier’s bestiary. A universal symbol of freedom, closely intertwined with the history of Cartier and with the personality of Jeanne Toussaint, who became Cartier’s Creative Director in 1933.

During the Second World War, Jeanne Toussaint conceived a bird enclosed in a cage, a poignant metaphor for occupied France. Displayed in the windows of Cartier’s boutique on Rue de la Paix in Paris, this bold symbol did not go unnoticed and drew the hostility of the German authorities based nearby at the Hôtel Ritz.

At the Liberation, the bird reappeared outside its cage, wings outstretched, celebrating the return of freedom. Far from being abandoned thereafter, the motif became a recurring theme. Perched on a branch or resting quietly, the bird is depicted in moments of serenity and balance. Avoiding overtly dramatic effects, Cartier embraces a sensitive and naturalistic vision of the animal, capturing a suspended moment in time, just before its next flight.

Through its many interpretations, the bird embodies one of Cartier’s most cherished values: elegance inseparably linked to freedom.