Patek Philippe

To commemorate its 150th anniversary in 1989, Patek Philippe launched a groundbreaking series of horological achievements. Alongside the unveiling of the Calibre 89 ultra-complication and the 3974, the maison introduced reference 3979—an elegant minute repeating wristwatch that pays direct homage to its vintage predecessors, most notably the iconic reference 2524-1 from 1954.

Encased in a refined and classical 33mm case, the 3979 was produced until approximately 2002 and represents one of the earliest wristwatches in the modern era to feature a minute repeater. The watch carries a unique blend of traditional aesthetics and technical mastery, offering a romantic link to the age-old horological complication first developed in the 16th century for telling time in the dark.

The activation of the minute repeater can be admired through the sapphire caseback, revealing the hammers striking the gongs in beautifully orchestrated tones: deep strikes for the hours, a double tone for the quarter hours, and high tones for the minutes. Long regarded as the benchmark for striking watches, Patek Philippe’s minute repeaters are celebrated for their clarity, harmony, and resonance. The present example, cased in platinum—a notoriously challenging metal for sound transmission—defies expectations by delivering an extraordinarily rich and resonant chime.

Stamped with case key number 28 between the lugs, the case was crafted by Ateliers Réunis, formerly known as Marcel Pugin, a long-standing Patek Philippe casemaker responsible for numerous iconic references, including the Nautilus Ref. 3700. Ateliers Réunis was located at Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, 1205 Genève, and was acquired by Patek Philippe to house their case and bracelet makers. It later became the home of the Patek Philippe Museum after the company moved its manufacturing premises to Plan-les-Ouates in 1996.

The elegant enamel dial is signed by the legendary Donzé Cadrans S.A., the master enamelling workshop founded by Francis Donzé in 1972. Distinctively, the dial features two small delta (Δ) symbols flanking the “SWISS” signature at 6 o’clock, believed to indicate the work of Donzé’s artisans—akin to the use of sigma symbols to denote gold markers and hands. Known for their exceptional quality and dedication to the centuries-old techniques of enamel craftsmanship, Donzé Cadrans remained one of Patek Philippe’s most trusted dial-making partners until their acquisition by Ulysse Nardin in 2012.

The current watch was originally fitted with a white dial with Roman numerals, which was later upgraded to the current stunning black enamel dial with applied white gold Breguet numerals and Breguet-style hands. In addition, a reverse dial in white enamel with applied Breguet numerals was also supplied, allowing the owner to change the style as they saw fit.

Platinum examples of reference 3979 represent only a fraction of the model’s production, thought to have been made in just 12 examples. To find one with a black enamel dial is exceedingly rare and desirable. Combining an understated aesthetic with an exceptional movement and extraordinary provenance, the present timepiece is a remarkable tribute to both Patek Philippe’s heritage and its enduring commitment to horological excellence.