Breguet

Celebrated as one of the most influential houses in horological history, Breguet is revered for its groundbreaking contributions to the art and science of watchmaking. Founded in 1775 by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand introduced revolutionary innovations that continue to define modern horology—including the tourbillon, Breguet hands and numerals, the Breguet overcoil, and a host of other technical achievements that remain in use to this day.

While renowned for its complex mechanical innovations, Breguet has also earned acclaim for crafting some of the most refined, classically styled timepieces in existence. The present lot is a striking embodiment of this legacy, featuring a signature coin-edge case, a meticulously crafted hand-guilloché dial, and Breguet’s elegant “pomme” hands. In outstanding condition, the watch is powered by the revered Peseux 260, a manually wound caliber produced in limited quantities—approximately 3,300 pieces between 1947 and 1970—specifically engineered to compete in the elite observatory chronometer trials of Geneva and Neuchâtel. So exceptional was this movement’s performance that it was adopted by multiple high-end watchmakers seeking victory in these fiercely competitive and widely followed contests. The finishing of this particular example is especially meticulous, elevating its mechanical credentials to the highest standard.

According to Breguet’s archives, this watch was sold on November 28, 1969. Outside of its serially produced military models—most notably the Type XX pilot’s chronograph and its civilian counterparts—much of Breguet’s output during the mid-20th century was strictly bespoke. Consequently, this piece is a rare example—a dress watch made in an era when such offerings from Breguet were vanishingly scarce. For collectors, it represents a truly special acquisition. This watch, in particular, offers an unfiltered glimpse into Breguet’s raw watchmaking talent—a compelling reminder of the maison’s unmatched legacy.

While finding an example of these commissioned Empire Breguets is rare enough, our example is elevated by several notable factors. Consigned to Sotheby’s by the family of the original owner, this watch is entirely unknown to the market and has benefited from continuous, careful family stewardship since new. The case is incredibly strong, with exceptional hallmarks, and the signature coin-edge design remains as crisp as the day it was delivered in Paris. Secondly, the dial is one of the best-preserved Empire dials ever to come to market. While many of these handmade guilloché dials have aged or developed spotting over time, this one remains in truly immaculate condition, with virtually no signs of aging—even under a loupe.