Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Ref. 96 is an undisputed icon of 20th-century watchmaking. Introduced in 1932, it marked the debut of the Calatrava model, renowned for its timeless design. This particular example, however, stands out for its rare combination of a stainless steel case and an early gilt-finished Gondolo movement, originally manufactured in 1912.

Following the Stern family’s acquisition of Patek Philippe in 1932, the brand was committed to utilizing the high-quality movements that remained in stock. As a result, a small number of early Ref. 96 watches were fitted with these movements, making them rare finds within the Calatrava lineage. The most notable distinction from later movements introduced with the Calatrava is the absence of a sweeping seconds hand, reinforcing its origins from an earlier era of precision watchmaking. Additionally, the movement is equipped with a Wilmot micrometer regulator, a testament to Patek Philippe’s commitment to fine regulation and timekeeping accuracy.

Encased in stainless steel—an unusual material for Patek Philippe wristwatches at the time—this example embodies both the maison’s rich heritage and its transition into a new era under the Stern family. The clean lines and balanced proportions of the Ref. 96 would go on to define one of the most celebrated designs in horology, cementing its status as a benchmark of elegance and functionality. The Extract from the Archives states that the case was replace in 1939 during a service in the brand's workshop.

This rare configuration, blending early 20th-century movement craftsmanship with the pioneering spirit of the Calatrava, makes this timepiece a significant and highly collectible piece in Patek Philippe’s storied history.