Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 533. Emerald and diamond brooch, 'Passementerie', circa 1965.

Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style

René Boivin

Emerald and diamond brooch, 'Passementerie', circa 1965

Auction Closed

May 14, 05:29 PM GMT


15,000 - 25,000 CHF

Lot Details


Designed as a knot pavé-set with old cushion-shaped, circular- and single-cut diamonds, enhanced with circular-cut emeralds, supporting cabochon emerald pendants, unsigned, maker's mark for Robert Davière, French assay marks for gold.

Accompanied by René Boivin certificate of authenticity no. 202404PAY, dated 15 April 2024, stating that the jewel was created circa 1965 after a drawing by Juliette Moutard.

Cf.: Françoise Cailles, René Boivin Joaillier, Paris, 1994, pg. 320, for a similar nœud brooch set with sapphires, dated 1945.

René Boivin

Maison Boivin was established by Jules René Boivin (1864-1917) in the 1890s. Working with his wife Jeanne, they created beautiful jewels in the dominant stylistic trends of the late 19th century such as historicism and Art Nouveau as well as more traditional designs. The Boivins had three children: Pierre, Germaine and Suzanne. René Boivin drew particular inspiration from his love of botany and gardening. From the onset, René Boivin strove for a purified, streamlined and strong aesthetic which would become Boivin’s trademark style.  

With the untimely deaths of René Boivin and his son Pierre during World War I, Jeanne Boivin took over the business. Born Jeanne Poiret (1871-1959), she was the sister of legendary fashion designer Paul Poiret who revolutionised women’s clothing in the 1910s with his oriental-inspired designs. Paul’s work presaged the liberating fashion of the 1920s through loose-fitting silhouettes constructed with luxurious fabrics, intricate detailing and bold colours.

Madame Boivin worked closely with the firm’s designers Suzanne Belperron and Juliette Moutard as well as her daughter Germaine. It was the sculptural, bold and daring creations of these three women that made Boivin synonymous with a modern yet whimsical style. In 1932, Suzanne Belperron branched out on her own, leaving an indelible mark on Boivin’s signature look. Upon her departure, Juliette Moutard took over the reins as lead designer.

Madame Boivin retired in 1954 but remained closely involved for the next five years. Her daughter Germaine stayed until 1976, around the time Jacques Bernard took leadership of the house. Trained at Cartier, Bernard joined Boivin in 1964 and, with the help of designer Marie-Caroline de Brosses, successfully continued Boivin’s unique design tradition until the early 1990s

The selection of Boivin jewels offered as part of ‘Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style’ represents what may be the largest private collection of René Boivin ever offered at auction. Encompassing key pieces from across Boivin’s long history, the collection provides an unprecedented opportunity to study, appreciate and acquire inspired designs from this celebrated French firm.