Cartier | monture Cartier

In the 1930s one of the most typical forms of brooch was the clip, which, as in this example, could often be secured to rigid bangles, allowing the jewel to be worn in a multitude of different ways. In comparison to their 1920s cousins, jewels took on a bolder, larger appearance, with sculptural, three-dimensional curved formations being ushered in. In this brooch we see how Cartier encompasses these evolutions to produce a clip of sumptuous, stylised leaves and flowers rendered completely in diamonds, a further nod to the 1930s inclination towards ‘all white’ jewels. European interest in Indian culture grew during the 1930s, seeing the 1931 Paris Colonial Exposition awarding a prize to Cartier’s Indian emerald bead tiara, as well as easier travelling conditions to the region by wealthy individuals from Europe and America. The Cartier maison forged robust ties with India, starting in 1911 with Jacques Cartier attending the Delhi Durbar to mark the accession of King George V of England to Emperor of India. The maison’s relationship with the country and its culture continued to develop, which in turn significantly influenced their designs, evident in the silhouette of this clip, unmistakably drawn from Indian motifs.