View full screen - View 1 of Lot 508. Ruby, diamond and onyx parure, 'Kashan'.

Property of a Distinguished European Collection

Marina B

Ruby, diamond and onyx parure, 'Kashan'

Auction Closed

November 8, 06:50 PM GMT

Estimate

55,000 - 90,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Property of a Distinguished European Collection


Ruby, diamond and onyx parure, 'Kashan', Marina B, circa 1980


Comprising: a sprung choker composed of stacked drop-shaped motifs, collet-set with oval cabochon rubies within a surround pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, interspersed with polished onyx, inner circumference approximately 290mm, expandable; a bangle similarly-set, inner circumference approximately 150mm, expandable; and a pair of ear clips; each signed Marina B, numbered, maker's marks for Jean-Claude Duhem, French assay marks for gold.

Cf.: Viviane Jutheau de Witt, Marina B - The Art of Jewellery Design, Milan, 2003, pg. 51, for a design drawing of the Kashan choker, the model was produced as a limited series of five.

Marina B


Marina Bulgari was born into the prestigious Bulgari jewellery dynasty in 1930, the granddaughter of Sotirios Voulgaris who founded the legendary Roman maison in 1884.

Bulgari was a constant in Marina’s life while growing up. When Sotirios passed away in 1932, Marina’s father and uncle, Costantino and Giorgio, took over the family business. Marina developed a passion for art, design and mathematics at a young age. After graduating from Saint Mary’s College in England, she returned to Italy and began contributing her own designs to the studio where her understanding of jewellery style and proportion made her an asset to the brand. After the passing of Marina’s father in 1973, she and her sister Anna took on a larger role in the running of the company. In time, Marina opted to step out on her own.


In 1977, Marina founded her own brand: Marina B. In choosing the name "Marina B", she hoped to set herself apart from the family name and legacy. The first Marina B boutique opened in Geneva in 1978. Others soon followed in Paris, Milan and New York. In no time, Marina B's bold designs, which incorporate geometric lines and sloping curves with boldly colored gemstones and diamonds, earned Marina wide recognition. Though her designs share the Bulgari DNA, they have a playful yet fearless aesthetic that perfectly captures the intoxicating energy and glamour of the 1980s. In a short time, she attracted a worldwide audience, including a number of celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly who were all known to wear Marina B to complement their red carpet looks.