Property from the Collection of Ambassador Alan J. Blinken and Melinda Koch Blinken

Van Cleef & Arpels

Gold and 'Mystery-Set' Ruby 'Ludo Hexagone' Bracelet, France | 梵克雅寶 | 黃金及密鑲紅寶石 'Ludo Hexagon' 手鏈，法國

Auction Closed

December 7, 09:12 PM GMT

Estimate

70,000 - 100,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Property from the Collection of Ambassador Alan J. Blinken and Melinda Koch Blinken

Van Cleef & Arpels | Gold and 'Mystery-Set' Ruby 'Ludo Hexagone' Bracelet, France

梵克雅寶 | 黃金及密鑲紅寶石 'Ludo Hexagon' 手鏈，法國

Designed as a flexible band of hexagonal-shaped links, each centering a round ruby, the clasp completed by mystery-set calibré-cut rubies, length 7½,signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 51161, with French assay mark; circa 1937.

In good condition, with nicks and scratches to the gold commensurate with wear. French assay mark for 18 karat gold. The rubies are medium to deep slightly to strongly purplish red, slightly to moderately included, a few with chips and surface-reaching inclusions, one calibré-cut ruby with a large chip to the corner, noticeable upon close inspection. Gross weight 78 dwts. Width approximately 1 inch. Clasps securely.

In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

For a bracelet of similar design, see Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, by Sarah D. Coffin, page 39.

Iconic and instantly recognizable, Van Cleef & Arpels’ mystery-set jewels are prized the world over for their exemplary design and craftsmanship. The renowned maison was granted the French patent for its “serti mystérieux” in 1933, a technique originally limited to flat, inflexible surfaces using square and rectangular-cut stones. The process was further developed to incorporate a variety of cuts to fill in spaces and create curved areas with graceful transitions, most evident in lots 66 and 70. In addition to the implied movement of these undulating surfaces, the technique has also been employed to produce bracelets of extraordinary fluidity (lots 71 and 75).

It takes hundreds of hours by a crew of artisanal craftsmen to produce a single mystery-set jewel. The stones, typically sapphires and rubies, are selected for their uniformity of color with many falling victim to the cutting wheel, making it a particularly costly process. The secret to the “mystery setting” technique is the precision with which the stones are cut so they may be slotted into a wire framework that is visible only from the underside. The result is a monochromatic mosaic of pure color, held together without any noticeable metal.