View full screen - View 1 of Lot 1002. 'Double Red' Sea-Dweller Mark III, Sumariner 2000 - 610 m, Ref. 1665    Montre bracelet en acier avec date et bracelet |  Stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet    Vers 1974|  Circa 1974.
1002

Rolex

'Double Red' Sea-Dweller Mark III, Sumariner 2000 - 610 m, Ref. 1665 Montre bracelet en acier avec date et bracelet | Stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet Vers 1974| Circa 1974

Property of the original owner since 1974 Mr. Marc Berthier

Rolex

Rolex

'Double Red' Sea-Dweller Mark III, Sumariner 2000 - 610 m, Ref. 1665 Montre bracelet en acier avec date et bracelet | Stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet Vers 1974| Circa 1974

'Double Red' Sea-Dweller Mark III, Sumariner 2000 - 610 m, Ref. 1665 Montre bracelet en acier avec date et bracelet | Stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet Vers 1974| Circa 1974

Rolex


'Double Red' Sea-Dweller Mark III, Ref. 1665

Submariner 2000 - 610 m


Montre bracelet en acier avec date et bracelet |

Stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet


Vers 1974|

Circa 1974


Cadran: noir

Calibre: cal. 1570 automatique, 26 rubis

Numéro de mouvement: D'385'991

Boîtier: acier, fond vissé, valve helium

Numéro de boîtier: 3'520'754

Fermoir: bracelet Rolex Oyster acier et boucle déployante

Dimensions: 40 mm, circonférence du bracelet approx. 200 mm

Signé: boîtier, cadran et mouvement

Ecrin: oui

Papiers: oui

Accessoires: Garantie, ancre, étiquette du COSC et écrin Rolex

 

Dial: black

Calibre: cal. 1570 automatic, 26 jewels

Movement number: D'385'991

Case: stainless steel, screw-down back, helium valve

Case number: 3'520'754

Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp

Dimensions: 40 mm, bracelet circumference approx. 200 mm

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: yes

Papers: yes

Accessories: Rolex Guarantie, anchor, COSC hang tag and presentation case with outer packaging

 

Poids brut 116.9 g |

Gross weight 116.9 g

MVT: is running at the time of cataloging. The date is advancing.

CASE: is in fair condition. It presents some visible wear with scratches, dents and dings. The bracelet is in fair condition. It presents some wear with scratches, dents and dings. The bracelet presents some warping. (Bracelet ref. 9315, end link 385, clasp I12)

DIAL: is in good condition. It presents some very minute blemishes. The hand show some wear. Neither the hands nor the indexes react to UV-lighting.


Please note: Condition XVI of the Conditions of Business for Buyers (Online Only) is not applicable to this lot. (Veuillez noter que l'Article XVI des Conditions Générales de Vente applicables aux Vendeurs (Ventes Effectuées Exclusivement en Ligne) n'est pas applicable pour ce lot.)


The lot is sold in the condition it is in at the time of sale. The online condition report is provided to assist you with assessing the condition of the lot and is for guidance purposes only. The images of the lot also form part of the online condition report for the lot provided by Sotheby's. Any reference to condition in the online condition report does not amount to a full description of condition. The online condition report may make reference to particular imperfections of the lot but you should note that the lot may have other faults not expressly referred to in the online condition report of the lot or shown in the online images of the lot (for example, the online condition report may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome). Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. The online condition report may not refer to all faults, restoration, alteration or adaptation because Sotheby's is not a professional conservator or restorer but rather the online condition report is a statement of subjective, qualified opinion genuinely held by Sotheby's (for example, information regarding colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's). Please also note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and wrist bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. In addition, certain images of the lot provided online may not accurately reflect the actual condition of the lot (for example, the online images may represent colours and shades which are different to the lot's actual colour and shades). For these reasons, the online condition report is not an alternative to taking your own professional advice regarding the condition of the lot. Prospective buyers should also refer to the Buying at Auction guide which includes important notices concerning the type of property in this sale. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species. Please be advised that wristbands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping. NOTWITHSTANDING THIS ONLINE CONDITION REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS (ONLINE ONLY).

 

(LE LOT EST VENDU TEL QUEL, DANS L'ÉTAT OU IL SE TROUVE AU MOMENT DE LA VENTE EN LIGNE. LE RAPPORT D'ÉTAT FOURNI EN LIGNE EST À TITRE INDICATIF UNIQUEMENT ET A POUR BUT D'AIDER À ÉVALUER L'ÉTAT DU LOT. LES IMAGES DU LOT FONT ÉGALEMENT PARTIE DU RAPPORT DE CONDITION FOURNI PAR SOTHEBY'S. TOUTE RÉFÉRENCE À L'ÉTAT DANS LE RAPPORT DE CONDITION EN LIGNE NE CONSTITUE PAS UNE DESCRIPTION COMPLÈTE DE L'ÉTAT. LE RAPPORT D'ÉTAT EN LIGNE PEUT DÉCRIRE CERTAINES IMPERFECTIONS DU LOT, VOUS DEVEZ CEPENDANT NOTER QUE LE LOT PEUT CONTENIR D'AUTRES DÉFAUTS QUE NE SONT PAS DÉCRITS DANS LE RAPPORT D'ÉTAT DU LOT OU QUI NE SONT PAS VISIBLES SUR LES IMAGES DU LOT LE RAPPORT D'ÉTAT EN LIGNE PEUT NE PAS DÉCRIRE TOUS LES DÉFAUTS D'UN LOT, TELS QUE LES RESTAURATIONS, DÉGRADATIONS, OU ADAPTIONS, CAR SOTHEBY'S N'EST PAS RESTAURATEUR OU CONSERVATEUR PROFESSIONNEL. LE RAPPORT D'ÉTAT EST UNE DESCRIPTION SUBJECTIVE ET QUALIFIÉE EFFECTUÉ PAR SOTHEBY'S (PAR EXEMPLE DES INFORMATIONS SUR LA COULEUR, LA CLARTÉ ET LE POIDS DE PIERRES SONT DES EXPOSÉS D'OPINION SEULEMENT ET NON DES EXPOSÉS DES FAITS EFFECTUÉS PAR SOTHEBY'S). VEUILLEZ ÉGALEMENT NOTER QUE NOUS NE GARANTISSONS PAS ET NE SOMMES PAS RESPONSABLES DES CERTIFICATS DE LABORATOIRES DE GEMMOLOGIE QUI PEUVENT ACCOMPAGNER DES LOTS. DE PLUS CERTAINES IMAGES FOURNIES EN LIGNE PEUVENT NE PAS REFLÉTER L'ÉTAT VÉRITABLE DU LOT (PAR EXEMPLE LES IMAGES EN LIGNE PEUVENT MONTRER DES COULEURS OU OMBRES QUI SONT DIFFÉRENTES DES VÉRITABLES COULEURS ET OMBRES D'UN LOT) C'EST POUR TOUTES CES RAISONS QUE LE RAPPORT DE CONDITION EN LIGNE N'EST PAS UNE ALTERNATIVE AUX CONSEILS PROFESSIONNELS, QUE VOUS POURRIEZ PRENDRE, CONCERNANT L'ÉTAT D'UN LOT. NOS FUTURS ACHETEURS DEVRAIENT SE RÉFÉRER AUX SECTIONS APPROPRIÉES DE NOTRE GUIDE D'ACHAT AUX ENCHÈRES QUI INCLUT DES INFORMATIONS IMPORTANTES SUR LE GENRE DE LOTS VENDUS DANS LA VENTE. NONOBSTANT LE RAPPORT DE CONDITION EN LIGNE OU TOUTES DISCUSSIONS À PROPOS D'UN LOT, TOUS LES LOTS SONT OFFERTS À LA VENTE « EN L'ÉTAT » CONFORMÉMENT À NOS CONDITIONS GÉNÉRALES DE VENTES (EN LIGNE UNIQUEMENT).

 

This Rolex Sea Dweller Double Red Mark 3 from 1974 is not just any other highly collectible Rolex.

It belongs to another category thanks to its quality, provenance and the reason of its presence in this auction.

This watch has been the faithful companion of its original and only owner, a person who is internationally recognized for his taste and talent. Since 1974 this Rolex has been carefully taken care of and preserved. Indeed, unlike so many other owners, this one immediately understood the beauty and essence of the piece and the absolute necessity of keeping it in its original condition. Thanks to his clear-sightedness, the watch has been preserved with strong lugs as the owner has always refused for it to be polished. It also has an absolutely beautiful patina the is perfectly matching on both the dial and the hands which demonstrates all the charm and character of the 1665 Double Red.

Not only has this watch been exceptionally well preserved, its original accessories have been meticulously kept by the owner. Therefore, the watch is presented today with its Rolex Guarantee, presentation case, anchor and tag. Such a complete set is remarkable in itself. 

In 1967, Rolex introduced the first version of the Sea Dweller reference 1665. This diving watch has been specifically engineered to sustain extreme depth for extended periods of time. The patented helium escape valve, first used on this reference, allows for accumulated helium to escape the watch without reducing its water resistance. But for this escape valve, the accumulation of gas could dislocate the plexi or damage the movement when expanding inside the watch during decompression. The watch has been nicknamed by collectors the 'Double Red' due to its distinctive red two-line text spread: 'Sea-Dweller' and 'Submariner 2000'. By 1977, Rolex changed the dial to the 'Great White' one with an all-white text.

The Reference 1665 was fitted with Double Red dials made in four versions over its lifetime, defined as such:

MK1: Exclusively ‘Patent Pending’ examples with Sea-Dweller and Submariner print of equal size and with the red print printed over the white. The red print has faded to pink on many examples. The Rolex coronet with thicker style.

MK2: Submariner 2000 text is smaller, coronet remains the same (short fingers), found on both the ‘Patent Pending’ and early ‘Patented’ versions. The "D" in Sea-Dweller lines up with "I" in Submariner 2000.

MK3: Such as the present lot, the coronet is more pronounced and elongated with flatter bottom. The "D" in Sea-Dweller lines up with the "R" in Submariner 2000.

MK4: The final version of the original dials is again a slightly heavier print for both the red and white text, the coronet has broader fingers and a more pronounced opening.

 

The owner of this piece is Mr. Marc Berthier.

Mr. Berthier is a celebrated architect and designer as well as a former combat diver, freediver and paratrooper.

His work has been influencing the Design world as well as our everyday lives for over 50 years. Some of his most famous creations include the Carré H and H 2 watches by Hermès, the entirely rubber coated Radio Tykho now in its third edition by Lexon and the 1960’s OZOO collection distributed by Roche Bobois, still very much popular and sought-after today.


Marc Berthier was born on the night of August 4th in 1935 in Compiègne, France.

Some of his creations are part of museum collections both in France and internationally, from the Centre Pompidou to the MoMA of New York, to name but a few. Many exhibitions and official events have been dedicated to him.

Marc Berthier is Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres and in 1986 received the Grand Prix Natoinale de la Création Industrielle from the Minister of Culture.

Between 1985 - 2000, he was the Director of a Teaching Unit at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure de la Création Industrielle. At the same time, Marc Berthier simultaneously practiced architecture under the leadership of Dominitri Avgoustinos constructing projects for several schools including CES, CET and LEP, such as LEP “Le Corbusier” at Soissons, France. Marc Berthier founded and directed Archi Plan Studio and Design Plan Studio, from 1980 to 1990, followed by Elium Studio from 2000 to 2020. Today, Marc Berthier continues to work from his Paris studio accompanied by his design associate, Mikaela Kvan. Together they will launch his final design studio KVAN / BERTHIER transcribing the role of design into a Post-Covid paradigm.

 

At the top of his project list for 2022 is Belvédère—a fully autonomous pre-fabricated house. Marc Berthier has dedicated over 30 years of his professional life to this house which can be constructed in any location, for situation and has been conceived for a large variety of topographical and climatic situations. Since the 1980’s, when Marc Berthier adventure with Belvédère first started, the project has consistently adapted to take into account evolutions in environmental change and technological innovation. Today, Belvédère is ready to go to production.

 

The bio-climatic roof is shaped as the wing of a plane. Its Intrados creates the Venturi effect, which forces the air to cool down by passing above the dwelling block during warm periods while the Extrados will capture the solar energy (through solar panels) and will capture rain water that will be collected in a 2m3 aboveground tank that will filter the water before supplying it to the dwelling unit.

Today Mr. Marc Berthier has decided to present his Rolex, his faithful companion around the world for 47 years. The proceeds of the sale will allow him to achieve the other dream of his life: Belvédère, an entirely autonomous house.

 

 

 

Mr. Marc Berthier about his scuba diving career:

 

The Scuba divers at Elba Island

 

Elba Island, in the archipelago of Tuscany, was one of the most important locations in the 1950’s and 60’s for freediving, so much so that several world records were established there.


In 1955, I was hired as a Programme Organizer for three seasons at Club Med to organize spearfishing—which was very popular at the time. In addition to my work, the Club Mediterannée of Marina Di Campo on Elba Island was also my training camp for freediving. Back then, you had to dive with fins and come back to the surface with a calibrated rope, without any assistance. My training took place at Punta Nera, close to Pareti beach at Gapoliveri on Elba island, which was the logistical base for the organization of the No Limit Freediving World Records.


For Club Med, I organized teams to explore in and around islands of the archipelago such as Pianosa, Capraia, Gorgona, Giglio and Gionotri. Adding a layer of complexity to the job, these islands were also penal colonies and it was forbidden to approach or berth on them. I had to negotiate the authorization from the governors of the penal colonies for spearfishing around them and to guarantee that we would not have any contact with prisoners on probation, who were wearing brown and white stripped outfits. A part of the Pinosa island was dedicated to high security prison inmates. Their wives would come every week on a galley, holding baskets on their knees sitting behind the galley rowers.


Two sailors and myself would leave at night from the Elba Island, at the San Martina Club Med (on a boat with a Latin sail and a noisy diesel engine) with a dozen of clients to reach Montecristo the next morning. Montecristo was one of the most beautiful islands of the archipelago. Made of pink granite, in a pyramidal shape, culminating at an altitude of 600 meters, its top was going through the clouds while its slopes were diving into the Tyrrhenian sea.

At the time, Montecristo was covered by oleander trees and wild goats roamed as they had for have for over two centuries. Thanks to the pink granite rocks and their many enclaves, its caves and galleries, the underwater life was prolific, with imposing fish such as groupers, brown meagre and moray eels. The underwater flora was also maginifcently abundant so much so that since 1971, the site has been a Nature Reserve and since 1977 a Biogenetic Reserve.

Marc Berthier was also a combat diver who served in the 11e DBPC (Demi-Brigade de Parachutiste de Choc).

 

As both a very experienced diver and a world-renowned designer, his personal watch had to be a tool piece, carrying the best technology and robustness while presenting some perfection and character in its aesthetic. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that Mr. Marc Berthier chose the Rolex 1665 Sea-Dweller, a timepiece among the best thought out and most celebrated watches ever created.

 

It is a great honor for Sotheby’s to have been entrusted by Mr. Marc Berthier to present such a personal and exceptional piece on his behalf, with the purpose of serving a truly wonderful and exciting project.


Additional images: all credits to Mr. Marc Berthier.

  • Mr. Marc Berthier wearing his Rolex Sea-Dweller Double Red
  • Mr. Marc Berthier on the cover of the Watch Journal, USD Print Edition, May 12, 2018
  • Mr. Berthier (far left) at the Club Med
  • Two design icons of the last 20 years: Montre Carré H2 and Radio TYKHO 2 & 3
  • The Belvédère project