Wong Kar Wai x Noritaka Tatehana 王家衛 x 舘鼻則孝 | In The Mood For Love - Rouge 旗袍領口的餘香 — 紅

Collection of Jet Tone Archive

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澤東庫藏

"If I were to describe IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE as a scent, what would it be? My take is that it would be the smell that flooded the senses of Chow Mo-Wan when he buried his secret in the stone walls of Angkor Wat; fresh grass in the morning, damp earth on the walls, sweat in the creases of his short-sleeved shirt, all combined with an aroma deeply ingrained in his memory - the intoxicating scent that trickled from the neckline of Su Li-Zhen’s qipao. The scent of Su Li-Zhen has always eluded me, but if I had to imagine it from my own memories, it would be the scent that my wife used to wear when she was seventeen.

To mark the 20th anniversary of IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE, we were not content to simply look back. Rather, we wish to take a step forward and offer more possibilities for the audience to appreciate the film. Over the past three years, we have worked with a group of artists in search of a scent. Our intention is to design a three-dimensional experience, through which our audience can relive the sensations that Chow Mo-Wan perceived that morning in Angkor Wat - the grass, the stone walls, and the scent of Su Li-Zhen, trickling from the neckline of her qipao.

We have immensely cherished this multidisciplinary collaboration, and must first express our gratitude to Mr. Alberto Morillas for his attention to detail in recreating the scent of Su Li-Zhen. We would also like to thank Mr. Noritaka Tatehana for his elegant design of the body of this work. Combining traditional Japanese craftsmanship with the textures of lacquer, mother-of-pearl and pure gold powder, Mr. Tatehana has beautifully expressed the textures of grass, stonewalls and the qipao. Finally, I must thank my wife, Esther, for creating the first memories that have inspired and guided this project."

— Wong Kar Wai

Special thanks: Firmenich & Aromasong 

Special mention: Nora Ladghem, Tetsuo Fukaya

「如果用氣味來形容《花樣年華》，該會是什麼樣的味道？我會說是回憶中的氣味；是多年以後，周慕雲回想起那天早上，他在吳哥窟的石牆上，悄然地留下他與蘇麗珍的秘密時，他可以細味的餘韻；早上的青草腥味、石牆上潮濕的泥土味，從他短袖恤衫裡蒸發出來的汗味、以及在他記憶裡，那股隱約從蘇麗珍旗袍領口沁出來的氣息；無跡可循又揮之不去，是存於他記憶深處的餘香。我的參考來自我太太，和她對十七歲時擁有的第一支香水的記憶。

值《花樣年華》的20週年，我們不僅僅滿足於回顧，我們希望為觀眾提供更多的可能性去體驗這部電影。除了看到、聽到，更可以聞到、觸摸到。過去三年，我們與不同的團隊一起努力，試圖通過氣味及手感來塑造一件立體作品，將青草，石牆，以及蘇麗珍旗袍領口沁出來的氣息融於一體，呈獻給大家。

我們非常珍惜這次跨界的合作，首先要感謝的是Mr. Alberto Morillas精心調製的蘇麗珍氣息。同時要感謝舘鼻則孝先生極富詩意的設計；以傳統的手藝，借漆器、雲母、金箔的不同質感，把青草、石頭、旗袍領口奇妙呈現。最後我要感謝我太太，她一直念念不忘的香味，是我們靈感的源頭。十分慶幸她一直收藏著這份僅存的餘香。」

— 王家衛

特別鳴謝： Firmenich & Aromasong 

特別提及：Nora Ladghem, Tetsuo Fukaya

"I was inspired by several elements of Wong Kar Wai's IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE, from the period costumes and wallpaper to the lustrous color palette created by cinematographer Christopher Doyle.

The shape for this IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE essence is inspired by the high collar of Su Li-Zhen's 60s qipao. The secret held by a woman wearing a collar is the key inspiration for this work, which main theme of 'sharing secrets' is expressed as a metaphor for an invisible sensation through the essence contained within." 

— Noritaka Tatehana

Artist profile

Noritaka Tatehana 舘鼻則孝

Noritaka Tatehana was born in Tokyo in 1985 to a family that runs a public bathhouse "Kabukiyu" in Kabukicho, Kamakura. Influenced by his mother, a Steiner-educated doll maker, he learned to make things with his hands from an early age. In 2010, he graduated from Tokyo University of the Arts, majoring in dyeing and weaving. He studied the culture of prostitutes in the Edo period (1603-1867) and produced yuzen-dyed kimonos and geta shoes. His work has been featured in exhibitions such as "Image Maker" (21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, Tokyo, 2014), "Future Beauty" (Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo and others, 2012), "The Aesthetics of Spell Power" (Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum, Tokyo, 2016), "It's always the others who die" (POLA Museum Annex, Tokyo, 2019), and "NORITAKA TATEHANA: Refashioning Beauty" (Portland Japanese Garden, USA, 2019). His work has also been exhibited in New York, Paris, Belgium and elsewhere in the world, including a performance of Bunraku (Japanese traditional puppets) at the Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain in Paris in March 2016. His works are part of major museum collections such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. He was appointed as the exhibition director of “Edo Tokyo Rethink”, an online exhibition focusing on Tokyo's traditional industries, organised as part of the “Edo Tokyo Kirari Project” led by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (Wakei Juku, former Marquis Hosokawa's residence, 2021).

(courtesy of Noritaka Tatehana)