Lots by Roger Dubuis at Sotheby's
About Roger Dubuis
The great appeal of Roger Dubuis watches lies in their harmonious balance between traditionally refined horology and bold, eye-catching design. The brand’s signature is largely due to the two men that founded it: Roger Dubuis, a seasoned Swiss watchmaker who put in time at Longines and Patek Philippe, and Carlos Dias, a renegade Portuguese designer. The two first met when Dubuis was running his own workshop, developing complicated movements for brands such as Harry Winston, and Dias was working as a waiter at a Genevan café. The two bonded over their passion for horology and, in 1995, the Roger Dubuis brand was born.
The brand launched with two styles: the Sympathie and the Hommage. The Sympathie S37 perpetual calendar epitomized the Dubuis approach — a highly complex bi-retrograde perpetual calendar and chronograph movement housed within a stylized cushion-shaped case. The Hommage range pays more literal homage to historical watchmakers, with classic round cases, muted colors, and movements that celebrate horology without superfluous bells or whistles.
As the company grew, the watches leaned into the avant-garde. The cheekily named “Too Much”, “Much More” and “Follow Me” collections experimented with unconventional cases, dials, and displays for exquisitely engineered complications. The Excalibur collection, introduced in 2005, remains one of Dubuis’ most iconic. The elaborate movements, entirely visible in skeletonized displays, are remarkable for their sleek, streamlined design. The Excalibur range has grown to include a flying tourbillon chronograph, innovative silicone gears, and collaborations with the likes of Pirelli and Lamborghini.