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Details & Cataloguing

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Important emerald and diamond pendant/brooch combination, Cartier, 1927
The surmount set with a carved emerald flower, framed with circular-cut diamonds, supporting a plaque set with an hexagonal polished emerald and calibré-cut emeralds, supporting three emerald drops with onyx rondelle crowns and circular-cut diamond terminals, unsigned, brooch fitting detachable, one small emerald deficient.
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Accompanied by SSEF report no. 108686, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a minor to a moderate amount of oil in fissures.

Literature

Cf.: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, London, 1984, pg. 183 for a photograph of the pendant in its original form, as part of a necklace.

Catalogue Note

As the image in Hans Nadelhoffers book, Cartier Jeweler Extraordinary, shows, this pendant was originally the central element of an important necklace composed of a diamond link chain flanked by pierced cabochon emeralds, dated 1927, a perfect example of Cartier's Indian style.

This pendant also calls to mind the brooch worn by Marjorie Merriweather Post, captured in a painting by Giulio de Blaas in 1929. Cartier's use of mughal stones in jewellery was an important aspect of their Indian style, these designs were dominant between 1913 and 1930.

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels

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Geneva