Lot 1712
  • 1712

Important Emerald and Diamond Brooch

9,500,000 - 12,000,000 HKD
bidding is closed


  • Emerald, Diamond, Silver, Gold
Designed as an old-mine- and rose-cut diamond scroll cartouche, centring on a cushion modified mixed-cut emerald and two modified calf's head step-cut emeralds weighing 12.22, 3.43 and 2.95 carats respectively, the diamonds together weighing approximately 23.00 carats, mounted with silver-topped gold, late 19th century, two rose-cut diamonds deficient.


The property of the Late Gabriele Murdock, sold by Sotheby’s New York on 7 December 1999, lot 625 
The property of HRH, The Crown Princess of Yugoslavia, sold by Sotheby’s New York on 9 to 10 December 1981, lot 430
The collection of the Princes of Orléans and Bragança
Queen Amelia of Portugal
The brooch was given to Queen Amelia as a gift from her godfather, the Duke of Aumale, a son of Louis Philippe, the last King of France.


Please note that this lot also accompanied by a SSEF certificate numbered 84578, dated 9 March 2016. Colour and Clarity: According to AGL, Gübelin and SSEF reports, all the three emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement. Please refer to the reports for details. In our opinion, the emeralds are well matched, of medium tone intense green colour, very lively and very good brilliance. Under 10x loupe inspection, there are natural fingerprint and liquid inclusions, two smaller emeralds with a few minute pits on the crown but not visible to the naked eye. The diamonds are mainly about I to K colour (a few M to N colour), mainly SI clarity (some VS & I ). Two rose-cut diamonds deficient. Condition: Vintage silver top gold mount, with silver blackened and a few spots of light discolouration on gold at the back commensurate with the age, overall condition is good.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by Gübelin report numbered 0608665/1 to 3, dated 24 October 2006, stating that the 12.22, 3.43 and 2.95 carat emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement. Also accompanied by an appendix stating that "the three Colombian emeralds featured in the antique brooch display a saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency.... An antique jewellery item with such a royal history and featuring three Colombian emeralds showing no indications of clarity enhancement is rarely encountered today."

Further accompanied by three AGL reports numbered CS 38103 to CS 38101, dated 13 January 2006, stating that the 12.22, 3.43 and 2.95 carat emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement, and a comment stating that the Total Quality Integration Rating for the 12.22 carat emerald is excellent.

Also accompanied by SSEF report, stating that the three emeralds are natural, of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.



Queen Amelia was born Princess Amélie of Orléans in 1865. Her father, Prince Louis-Philippe, Count of Paris, was the senior grandson of the last King of the French and the claimant to the French throne. Her mother, Princess Maria-Isabella was an infanta of Spain through the Spanish branch of the Bourbon-Orléans dynasty. She married Carlos of Portugal in 1886, who reigned as King Carlos I after the death of his father in 1889. Their son, Prince of Manuel became Manuel II, the last King of Portugal, who reigned until 1910 when the country was declared a Republic.

Queen Amelia was given three emerald and diamond jewels on the occasion of her marriage to Carlos of Portugal in 1886. The emerald and diamond brooch was a gift from her godfather, the Duke of Aumale, a son of Louis Philippe, the last King of France. This grandeur of this brooch lies not only in its provenance, but also in the three attractive Colombian emeralds that are natural and free of clarity treatment, in which the centre stone weighs a stunning 12.22 carats. A noble brooch with such important gemstones would definitely attract both antique jewel aficionados and gem connoisseurs.