Lot 176
  • 176

A GEM-SET AND ENAMELLED TURBAN ORNAMENT (JIGHA OR SARPECH), NORTH INDIA, LATE 18TH/19TH CENTURY |

Estimate
20,000 - 30,000 GBP
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Description

  • 20cm. 
set with large carved emeralds, the central one with flowerhead design, within foiled surrounds, surrounded by table-cut diamonds, hanging spinel and seed pearls, the reverse with red, green and white floral design in basse taille enamel, two pin hooks for fastening, two drop pearls

Provenance

Maharaja Shri Pratap Singh of Idar (1845-1922), Gujarat.
Thence by descent, UK.

Condition

The stones are foil-backed, a number of which appear to be foil backed in a different colour or replacement stones, some of the foiling oxidised, the hanging spinel on a later setting, crack in the leaf-style emerald, the hook possibly later replaced, as viewed. The piece weighs 113 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

A symbol of rank, this turban ornament, designed as a floral plume, would have indicated royal affiliation. Usually worn on the side of the turban, the word sarpech actually refers to sar (headfront) and pech (screw). This beautiful example is of particularly impressive size and relates to a number of examples in museums and private collections worldwide. Versions are in the Victoria and Albert Museum (inv. no.IM.44-1922 and IS.3&A-1982), the Al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait (inv. no.LNS 1767 J, Keene 2001, p.28, no.1.23) and the Al-Thani Collection (Haidar and Stewart 2015, pp.58-60).