A JEWELLED 18CT GOLD AND 'PÉKIN' ENAMEL VANITY CASE, HENRI LAVABRE FOR CARTIER, PARIS, CIRCA 1920 | A jewelled 18ct gold and 'Pékin' enamel vanity case, Henri Lavabre for Cartier, Paris, circa 1920

cylindrical form, oval section, narrowly striped gold and black enamel, each end in black enamel, embellished with rose diamond rings, diamond and onyx thumbpiece, on rose diamond and black enamel chains depending from a rock crystal ring with black silk tassel, opening to reveal four compartments including one with mirror, maker's mark of Henri Lavabre, eagle's head 3me titre, engraved: Cartier, Paris, Londres, New York, and numbered 361

a few diamonds missing to mounts but overall very good condition
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This vanity case is an iconic model among Cartier creations. The striped gold and black enamel is known as 'Pékin' pattern while its form was inspired by Japense inrō, a box with compartments originally used to carry medicine and worn at the waist. A similar vanity case with matching cigarette holder is now in the Cartier collection and regularly exhibited and published (see G. Gautier, The Cartier Legend, London, 1980, p. 96; F. Cologni & E. Moccheti, L'Objet Cartier, Paris, p. 79; and The Art of Cartier, op. cit., cat.89). An almost identical example, numbered 0109, is in the collections of the Liangyi Museum, Hong Kong, and was published by M. Etherington-Smith in Vanities, 2011, fig. 31. According to Judy Rudoe, the jewelled rose diamond circle at one end was intended to contain a monogram if the client so wished (Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, exhibition catalogue, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1997, p. 127). Henri Lavabre first entered a maker's mark in 1904 and his atelier worked exclusively for Cartier between 1906 and 1921. The association continued until the 1930s and he supplied a large proportion of Cartier's gold and enamel cigarette and vanity cases in the 1920s.