清康熙 御製黃地緞織彩雲金龍紋袍料後改縫為藏袍

constructed in Tibet from Chinese Kangxi period imperial yellow silk brocade, the design dominated by eight complete five-clawed dragons grasping flaming pearls on the front, back and shoulders, with four partial dragons on the sleeves, superimposed against a ground of interconnected clouds and small dragons, woven in gold and multi-colored threads, all above a partial terrestrial diagram at the hem, the collar, inner flap and one sleeve fashioned from waves taken from the original border, edged and lined with dark and light fur pelts creating a checked design

Stephen McGuinness，約 1980年

This lot will require a CITES license upon export for the US. Please refer to the catalogue for further details. The fur trimming along the edges as seen in the catalogue photo has been removed and will not be sold with the robe. The black thread used in the weave of the brocade, for example, in the dragons' tails, manes, spinal fins and talons, has disintegrated. This is caused by the use of iron oxide in the dye and is common for textiles from that period. There is a 3 x 4 cm piece of brocade missing from along the edge of the inner flap. The hem of the robe is slightly irregular. There are small repaired holes above the hem on the robe's lower right and two on the rear lower left. The button beneath the right arm has been reattached. There is some restitching visible along the lower edge of the over flap. There are scattered loose threads, minor pulls and signs of wear.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

During the Qing dynasty, the imperial court patronized Tibetan Buddhism as a way to consolidate their control over their vast empire. The Qing emperors sent lavish gifts to major Tibetan monasteries and leading monks and teachers. As Tibet did not produce silk, the Tibetans particularly welcomed gifts of luxurious silk textiles from China.

The yellow color of the present lot indicates that the material was originally made for the imperial court. The dragon robe was probably a gift from the Qing court to a Buddhist monastery, where it was re-cut and turned into a chuba. 

The style of the dragons with their long narrow snouts, wide open mouths, knobby heads and round eyes below pointed eyebrows, indicate a 17th century date. For an example of a 17th century dragon robe see Heaven's Embroidered Cloths, Hong Kong Museum of Art, Hong Kong, 1995, pp. 208-209. It is likely that the fabric was intended for a surcoat such as the late 17th century example illustrated in John E. Vollmer, Silks for Thrones and Altars: Chinese Textiles and Costumes, Paris, 2004, no. 23.  As Vollmer notes, although the style of the Ming dragon continued into the early Qing, the size of the dragons decreased, while the number increased. It was not until 1759 that the number of dragons on an imperial dragon robe was fixed at nine.

Qing dynasty robes had sleeve extensions made from separate pieces of pleated silk, as a Manchu homage to their horse-riding nomadic past, where sleeves would have been pushed-up while riding. When uncut Qing robes were restyled into chuba, it was necessary to obtain fabric for the sleeves from elsewhere.

It is rare to find an interconnected cloud ground as seen on the present lot, but an embroidered example of a Kangxi period dragon robe with a similar design of dragons superimposed on interconnected clouds was sold at Christie's London, 9th November 2010, lot 276. For further examples of chuba made from material from the Imperial court see Heaven's Embroidered Cloths, op. cit., pp. 206-207 and 220-221, and one sold at Christie's New York, 17th September 2008, lot 174.