18K黃金鑲蛋白石項鏈

· 鑲66顆蛋面蛋白石及3枚蛋白石片
· 長度17英寸
· 編號L. 560
· 約1904年
· 盒子附Tiffany & Co.品牌刻名


*拍品資料以英文為主，中文翻譯僅供參考

An image of the present necklace may be found in Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co., by John Loring, page 54.

In good condition particularly given the age of the piece, with some evidence of solder and tarnish to the gold mainly on the reverse. Some of the cabochon opals and opal tablets display a strong, attractive play of color presenting a spectrum of colors with blues and greens dominating. The other opals present a more subtle combination of color. Some of the cabochons are slightly crazed and have some evidence of dark pitting, and one of the opal tablets displays a relatively significant crack. Length approximately 17 inches. Accompanied by a letter dated 1963 to the original owner from Julia Munson Sherman stating that the necklace is "a project from the Louis Comfort Tiffany Jewelry Department."
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Louis Comfort Tiffany, known for his stained glass windows, leaded glass lamps and favrile glassware, commenced making jewelry at Tiffany Furnaces in 1902. Julia Munson, who had worked in Tiffany’s enameling division, was put in charge. She designed and created jewelry with Tiffany’s preference for gemstones that were either opaque or translucent. Emphasis was placed on color, typical of all his work.

Gemstones with unusual colorations appealed to Tiffany, especially those with a mottled appearance, such as the black opals on this necklace with blues and greens and flashes of pink and red.  The design of each element is ingenious. Black opals are suspended from each tier providing interest in the design as well movement when the necklace is worn. A photograph of the necklace in a Tiffany & Co. scrapbook designates the number 242, prefixed with J, indicating Ms. Munson created the necklace, most likely in 1904.  It originally included two additional elements.

Louis Comfort Tiffany jewelry set with black opals is sought after by connoisseurs who collect other objects of his oeuvre as well as by museums.

Janet Zapata: Author: The Jewelry and Enamels of Louis Comfort Tiffany

Accompanied by a letter dated 1963 to the original owner from Julia Munson Sherman stating that the necklace is "a project from the Louis Comfort Tiffany Jewelry Department."

The necklace offered here is from the collection of Dr. Robert Koch, one of the foremost experts on the life and works of Louis Comfort Tiffany, and his wife Gladys, a woman renowned for her sense of style and vast knowledge of Art Nouveau jewelry.  While conducting research for his seminal book Louis Comfort Tiffany, Rebel in Glass, Dr. Koch worked closely with Julia Munson who directed Tiffany’s Artistic Jewelry Department starting in 1902.  In keeping with Tiffany’s philosophy of creating one-of-a-kind, hand-wrought pieces, Munson oversaw the execution of only a few hundred works during her tenure, allowing her to confirm in a 1963 letter to Dr. Koch that the present example, though no longer carrying a signature, had indeed been made under the creative auspices of Louis Comfort Tiffany.  The necklace remained in the collection of Dr. and Mrs. Koch until they presented it to their daughter on her wedding day.