拍品 1847
  • 1847

HUTTON-MDIVANI天然翡翠珠配紅寶石及鑽石項鏈, 卡地亞(Cartier), 年份約1933

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描述

  • HUTTON-MDIVANI天然翡翠珠配紅寶石及鑽石項鏈, 卡地亞(Cartier)
  • jadeite, ruby, diamond
  • 翡翠珠約19.20至15.40毫米
• 由27顆天然翡翠珠組成
• 鉑金及18K黃金鑲嵌
• 長度約530毫米

來源

芭芭拉.赫頓、Louise Van Allen及Nina Mdivani公主故藏

出版:
Cf: Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, 20th Century Jewelry & the Icons of Style, London, 2013, 142 - 144頁
Cf: Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, Famous Jewelry Collectors', London, 1999, 185 - 187頁

Condition

THE HUTTON-MDIVANI JADEITE NECKLACE Colour and Clarity: According to the jadeite certificates, the jadeite beads are natural, Type "A" Jadeite. Please refer to the certificates for details. In our opinion, the jadeite beads have very good translucency and fine texture, of luminious emerald green colour. It is extremely rare to have matching huge jadeite beads (19.16 to 15.40mm), with great translucency and alluring vivid colour. Upon strong transmitted illumination, there are white cloud inclusions, common visual characteristics in natural jadeites and not noticeable in normal lighting. Calibrè-cut rubies are of brilliant, strong red colour, eye clean. Diamonds are about F to G colours, mostly VS clarity. Provenance: Formerly in the collection of Ms. Barbara Hutton, one of the most important jewellery collectors in the 20th century Condition: In our opinion, considering the outstanding quality and rarity, these 27 jadeite beads are possibly from a nobility origin, dated back to early 20th century China. Current necklace is made and completed by Cartier in 1933, platinum and karat yellow gold mount, signs of normal wear to the clasp commensurate with its age, overall in very good condition. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

拍品資料及來源

附香港玉石鑑定中心證書(編號KJ 84088 (1-5),日期2014年1月23日)• 翡翠評定為天然「A 玉」
另附瑞士SSEF證書(編號73188,日期2014年2月28日)• 翡翠未經任何加工處理 • SSEF附錄中指翡翠珠「呈完美匹配的顏色,加上出眾的透亮度和頂級的光澤...這翡翠珠鏈稀珍之處不只在於其非凡匹配的品質及叫人驚訝的份量,還因為它的出處顯赫,以及展現了卓越的風格和造工。因此,這條項鏈絶對是大自然最稀有的珍寶。」

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拍賣史上最珍罕貴重的翡翠飾品:
Hutton-Mdivani 翡翠珠項鏈

數百年來,翡翠在中華大地都是地位和財富的象徵,「翡翠」二字的由來亦突顯出這一點。《異物志》說:「翠雀形如燕,赤而雄曰翡,青而雌曰翠,其羽可以飾幃帳。」翡翠為一種鳥的名稱,雄鳥紅色叫翡,雌鳥綠色叫翠。在古代翠鳥的綠色羽毛皆因顏色與眾不同,鮮彩奪目,是極名貴的裝飾品。後來因為不再使用翡翠羽毛,所以每當提起翡翠就一定理解為美麗的翠玉。

玉是有靈氣的寶石,貼身佩戴得靈氣滋養,而佩戴的人也自然面紅體潤,翡翠本身沾了好的氣場亦顯得格外的剔透豐柔,可謂雙得益彰。雕琢翡翠向來「以素為貴」,品質最上乘的原石為突出其玉質之美,喜以素面切割為主,翡翠珠子更是當中的典範。出產自緬甸中部帕敢礦區的「老坑」翡翠被一致公認為最頂級的美翠,以色澤柔亮、質地細潤及水頭充足而聞名於世。可惜嬌好的老坑翡翠石材珍稀,體積往往不大,能打造的翡翠珠子直徑一般只限於5至10毫米。眼前這條Hutton-Mdivani翡翠珠項鏈有二十七顆「老坑」玉珠,顆顆質細如絲,顏色濃而不悍、柔而不薄、潤而不膩,堪稱郁綠柔亮,充滿靈氣。玉珠的大小亦教人驚嘆,項鏈上最小的一顆翡翠珠直徑有15.40毫米,比一般拍賣場上看到的都要大,最大的一顆更達到19.20毫米,而且整整二十七顆之多,份量驚人,彌足珍貴。一般而言,成就一條翡翠珠鏈需要多至三倍的珠子,從中挑選最相匹配的一些,而由於要求質色均配,珠子必須源出於同一塊原石,因此翡翠珠鏈往往耗用大量石材,尤其難得矜貴,為收藏家所青睞。能湊合這條由顆顆碩大的翡翠珠子串成的Hutton-Mdivani項鏈,原石材必然體積驚人,極度罕有。

歷史上喜歡收藏及佩戴翡翠的名人多不勝數,當中有些甚至是權傾一時或魅力非凡的女性人物:慈禧太后、宋美齡和黃蕙蘭便是當中的佼佼者。這條幾近完美的翡翠珠項鏈的主人──「億萬寶貝」芭芭拉.赫頓──是二十世紀西方上流社會的名媛,亦曾經是全球最富有的女人之一,一生綺衣燦爛、鐘鼓饌玉,所佩戴的珠寶每一件都是稀世珍寶,這條美不勝收的翡翠珠項鏈也不例外,是她父親於1932年特意為她在卡地亞訂製的結婚禮物。頂級翡翠散發含蓄典雅的秀氣,就像照片裡的芭芭拉.赫頓一樣,不譁眾取寵,但甫出現,經已震懾全場。

這條Hutton-Mdivani項鏈上的翡翠玉珠的來歷如其他清末民初失落的珍寶一樣無從稽考,但這二十七顆瑩潤的翡翠玉珠在上世紀三十年代初已經於歐洲出現。源自中國的翡翠珠子由中國流至西方的卡地亞必然經歷漫長,而嚴謹的卡地亞高級訂製珠寶向來需時,從設計、配料到打造往往經年。由此估算,眼前這二十七顆翡翠玉珠的真實生產年份該再往前推至清末時期。比較2010年紐約蘇富比拍賣的另一條由滿清朝珠串製而成的翡翠珠項鏈,這條Hutton-Mdivani 項鏈的翡翠玉珠,無論色澤、質地、水份、以至大小都有過之而無不及,可想而知,能夠擁有及佩戴如此非凡上乘、品質比一般朝珠更超過的翡翠珠項鏈,這位主人的身份絕對矜貴顯赫。

此項鏈於1988年在拍賣場上首次曝光,當年以二百萬美元(約1560萬港元)天價成交,轟動一時,成為全球最高成交價的翡翠首飾。六年之後,項鏈再一次現身香港拍賣場,成交價已飆升至四百二十萬美金(約3,276萬港元),升價逾一倍,亦再次把翡翠首飾的成交價推至另一最高峰。時至今日,Hutton-Mdivani 翡翠珠項鏈仍然被喻為存世最貴重的翡翠飾品。