The geometric design of this jewel, which appears strikingly modern, is actually based on an Elizabethan prototype; gemstones decorated in square panels can be found in portrait jewels of the time. A portrait of Elizabeth Brydges, maid-of-honor to Queen Elizabeth, shows the subject wearing a full parure of Renaissance jewelry including a brooch similar to the present one on her collar. See Ancestral Jewels by Diana Scarisbrick, pg. 13.
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