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Specialist Picks: Daniela Mascetti's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Highlights

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Alongside an exceptional selection of fancy coloured diamonds led by the outstanding and extremely rare ‘Sky Blue Diamond’ and an array of Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires and Colombian emeralds, the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on 16 November in Geneva gives collectors the opportunity to acquire rare and historically important jewels with extraordinary provenance. Daniela Mascetti, Senior International Jewellery Specialist has selected her top picks from the sale. Click ahead to see her highlights.

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels
16 November 2016 | Geneva

Specialist Picks: Daniela Mascetti's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Highlights

  • Historic and magnificent diamond jewel, second half of the 18th century, formerly in the collection of the Russian Imperial Family.
    Estimate CHF 2,950,000–4,920,000.
    It is extremely rare for a diamond jewel of significant importance dating from the 18th century to have survived intact. Diamonds were very scarce until mines were opened in South Africa towards the end of the 19th century. The survival of this jewel much depended on its Imperial ownership and its important provenance continued to protect it even after the Russian revolution when it appeared at auction in London in 1927. Even more remarkable is the fact that it is still preserved in its late 18th century red velvet lined shagreen fitted case.



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  • The Sky Blue Diamond. Superb fancy vivid blue diamond ring, Cartier. Estimate CHF 14,760,000–24,590,000.
    The Sky Blue Diamond is an 8.01 carat square emerald cut stone of the most perfect and wonderfully celestial blue, presented in a very unusual and extremely elegant Cartier mount.  Although other rare coloured diamonds such as pink and red are found in India, Brazil and Australia, blue diamonds are primarily recovered from the Cullinan mine in South Africa.  One of the scarcest material on earth, blue diamonds owe their distinctive blue colour to trace amounts of the element boron.  The Gemological Institute of America estimates that only 0.3% of coloured diamonds submitted to their laboratory are predominantly blue in colour, regardless of colour saturation or presence of modifying hues.



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  • Important gem-set and diamond ‘Jasmin’ necklace, Jean Schlumberger, 1973. Estimate CHF 98,000–198,000.
    Colourful, asymmetrical, sculptural, organic, playful:  this necklace encapsulates the art of Schlumberger, one of the greatest jewellery creators of the 20th century.  Fascinated by nature in all its vegetal and animal forms he designed unusual ornaments of eerie beauty appreciated by stylish, self-confident women bold enough to wear his ‘sculpures’. Diana Vreeland, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Mrs Paul Mellon, Babe Paley were all enthusiastic about his work and contributed to make his name known both sides of the Atlantic,



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  • Jadeite, lapis lazuli, enamel and diamond bracelet, Georges Fouquet, circa 1925. Estimate CHF 55,000–78,000.
    A true masterpiece of Art Deco jewellery. Georges Fouquet perfectly combines  here the geometrical lines, the boldness of colour, the exotic flavour that are at the core of the style. The choice of materials includes lush green jadeite and deep blue lapis favoured by Oriental civilizations enhanced by the sheen of enamel and brilliance of diamonds. The colour combination is a new, modern and vibrant take of the turn of the century pastel blue and green juxtaposition favoured by Cartier and Fabergè. The rhythmical repetition of the hexagonal plaques is somehow reminiscent of the new machine age.



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  • Pair of gold clips, ‘Manchettes Plissées’, René Boivin, 1935.
    Estimate CHF 15,000–20,000.
    You need a great mind, or a combination of two as in this case, to create a great jewel without any precious gemstones. Designed by Suzanne Belperron for the innovative Renè Boivin, these two clips encapsulate the essence of 1930s. Strong, essential, geometrical lines inspired by the world of mechanical industry are glorified here to a level of true artistry. The choice of combining yellow and white gold adds an extra dimension to the piece.



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  • Chalcedony and pearl brooch, Suzanne Belperron, circa 1955.
    Estimate CHF 70,000–100,000.
    ‘My style is my signature’ stated the enigmatic Suzanne Belperron when asked why she did not sign her creations. An avant guardiste at a time of innovation, she stood out and distinguished herself with jewels of very distinct, soft, tactile, three dimensional design. Organic abstraction in carved hardstone is a leit-motif in her oeuvre: the articulated gold sprawling branches budding with pearls add to the sinuous movement of this piece.



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  • Enamel, diamond and rock crystal pendent watch, ‘Cachet’, and onyx and pearl sautoir, Cartier, circa 1926. Estimate CHF 118,000–177,000.
    This is a perfect example of Cartier’s genius at creating complexity out of simplicity. The basic two colour scheme of black and white is declined in a variety of volumes, shapes and textures. The  circular shape of the rock crystal ring is echoed by the long chain of  spherical natural pearls and onyx discs. The same disc shape is chosen to house the watch movement surmounted by a conical motif decorated with bands of diamonds and black enamel repeating the chromatic palette of the sautoir. The embodiment of the statement ‘Less is more’.



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  • Enamel and diamond brooch, ‘Hydrangea Petiolaris’, Lalique, circa 1900. Estimate CHF 79,000–118,000.
    A seminal example of Lalique’s work where the organic, fluid Art Nouveau lines are used to sculpt asymmetrical sprays of hydrangea panicles. The naturalistic, delicate shades of different green plique-à-jour enamel give the impression of a stained glass window and create a perfect translucent background to the dense sparkle of the diamond inflorescence. The texture of the gold branches add an extra dimension to the realism of this jewel which breaks away from  the repetitive photographic naturalism of late 19th century  to embrace the Japanese clean and linear interpretation of nature.



    View Lot 291

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