With royal warrants ranging from Thailand to Russia and much of Europe, it is no surprise that King Edward VII of England famously referred to Cartier as the ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’. Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier, the firm came to dominate international jewellery design in the early 20th century under the auspices of his three enterprising sons: Louis Cartier in Paris, Pierre Cartier in New York and Jacques Cartier in London. With a roster of visionary designers such as Charles Jacqueau and Pierre Lemarchand, and charismatic creative director Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s designs articulated a wide range of influences into highly original and elegant jewels that defined their eras. Their ‘Tutti Frutti’ pieces brought carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires adapted from Indian jewels together in riotous combination from the mid 1920s, while their opulent ‘big cat’ jewels draped themselves across such legendary collectors as Barbara Hutton and the Duchess of Windsor, and became the house’s most beloved mascots. Cartier continues to inspire collectors worldwide with such design classics such as ‘Juste un Clou’ and ‘LOVE’ bracelets, as well as the versatile ‘Tank’ range of watches, and their supremely imaginative high jewellery collections.

Cartier

Important Watches

Cartier, London Maxi Oval A rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70 Dial: white dial signed Cartier London, stretched radial Roman numerals, slim blued steel épée hands Calibre: 7’’’ oval calibre K535 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber Movement number: numbered to main plate 2’001’535 Case: 18k yellow gold stretched and curved oval case, rounded bezel, case back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Case number: hand stamped 9’162 Closure: brown beige unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped 9’162 Size: 52 mm length x 22.5 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier London Maxi Oval is among the most celebrated creations from Cartier’s Bond Street atelier, a masterpiece of bold design and uncompromising craftsmanship. Introduced in the late 1960s, the Maxi Oval epitomised the dynamic energy of the era, drawing inspiration from the revolutionary spirit that defined London at the time. Dramatically larger than most wristwatches of the period, particularly those with a traditional dress aesthetic, its impressive size made it an unmistakable statement piece, while the model’s innovative design secured its status as an artistic triumph. The Maxi Oval emerged during the Swinging Sixties, a time when London was the epicentre of cultural innovation and youthful rebellion. Icons such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Twiggy embodied the spirit of the decade, while designers like Mary Quant revolutionised fashion with daring and playful styles. Cartier London mirrored this creativity and experimentation in its watchmaking, producing avant-garde designs that pushed boundaries. The Maxi Oval, alongside other Cartier Bond Street icons like the Crash and Pebble, captured this ethos, transforming functional timepieces into provocative statements of individuality. Cartier London’s designers of the late 1960s and early 1970s embraced fluid, deconstructed, and asymmetrical shapes, a creative approach that placed their watches at the forefront of design innovation. Models like the Maxi Oval, the Crash, and the Pebble defined this era of remarkable artistry, as Cartier London challenged and reimagined traditional watchmaking norms. Like its contemporaries, the Maxi Oval features Vendôme-style T-bar lugs affixed to the case back, a thoughtful design choice that conceals the lugs, ensuring the watch’s silhouette remains visually uninterrupted. The result is an elongated, curved oval form that seamlessly blends elegance with modernity. The sinuous curves of the bezel flow downwards, converging with the case back into a deeply concave form that allows the watch to hug the wrist in an almost organic fashion. This curvature not only enhances comfort but also imbues the watch with a sculptural, dynamic quality. Adding to its distinctiveness are the exaggerated Roman numerals that stretch dramatically across the dial, amplifying the sense of scale and reinforcing the watch’s avant-garde character. By reinterpreting a traditional horological element to complement its bold proportions, Cartier London successfully bridged the gap between classic elegance and contemporary innovation.

View 1 of Lot 2501: Maxi Oval | A rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70

maxi oval | a rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1969-70

Cartier Bamboo Coussin, Reference 78102 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1975 Dial: white Calibre: cal. 78-1 mechanical, 17 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 0'231 Closure: unsigned beige leather strap and 18k yellow gold Cartier folding clasp Size: 36 mm length x 28 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier travelling pouch The Cartier Coussin Bamboo Ref. 78102 is part of the Louis Cartier Collection of 1973, which marked a pivotal moment in Cartier’s history. Following the 1972 acquisition of Cartier Paris by Robert Hocq and an investment group led by Joseph Kanoui, Cartier embarked on a global reorganization to reunite its previously independent branches. By 1976, Cartier Paris, New York, and London were once again consolidated under single ownership, which strengthened the brand’s global identity and aligned its luxury offerings. This restructuring allowed Cartier to streamline its production practices and transfer almost all its watch manufacturing operations from Paris and London to Switzerland, facilitated by a key partnership with Ebel in La Chaux-de-Fonds. With Ebel’s expertise, Cartier was able to produce watches in larger quantities and with the consistency needed to establish itself as a truly global luxury brand. Released in 1973, the Louis Cartier Collection was a retrospective series that revisited Cartier’s iconic designs while also introducing entirely new shapes. This ambitious collection included 12 models, all sharing key design elements such as gold cases, white enamel painted dials with Roman numerals, epée hands, and ETA or Ebel supplied movements signed for Cartier. While these features created a cohesive identity, Cartier boldly pushed the boundaries of form, experimenting with shape. Each model had a distinct case design, reflecting the brand’s creativity and willingness to innovate. As with other models in the collection, the Coussin Ref. 78102 features a five-digit reference number engraved on the case back, followed by a sequential serial number. As with other models from the Louis Cartier Collection, the Coussin Bamboo Ref. 78102 demonstrates Cartier’s commitment to refined and innovative design. With its cushion-shaped case, soft rounded edges, and bamboo-style bezel, it brought a unique profile to the collection that blended Cartier’s traditional elegance with a modern aesthetic. The Coussin was produced in both large and small sizes as illustrated here. One of the most unusual designs from the 1973 collection, the Coussin’s balanced, distinctive form was perfectly aligned with the 1970s wider trend toward unique, unconventional wristwatch designs. --- The Bamboo Coussin is a remarkable Cartier timepiece that embodies the maison’s longstanding passion for innovative design, cross-cultural influences, and artistic creativity. Introduced in the early 1970s and offered in both men and lady versions, the present reference 78102 being the "Jumbo" size for men, the Bamboo model represents a striking yet sophisticated expression of Cartier’s bold design vision during one of its most inventive eras. Inspired by Asian aesthetics—an enduring source of inspiration for Cartier since the early 20th century—the design reflects a cultural dialogue that can be traced back to celebrated creations such as the Tank Chinoise of 1922, as well as a range of exceptional Art Deco clocks and decorative objects distinguished by their geometric forms and non-Western influences. With the Bamboo Coussin, Cartier transformed the natural elegance of bamboo into sculptural gold elements that gracefully surround the case, combining organic fluidity with architectural strength. The present example is a rare large-sized model crafted in yellow gold and is especially sought after. More than a timekeeping instrument, this watch is a wearable work of art and an important chapter in Cartier’s design heritage. It stands as a lasting testament to the maison’s exceptional ability to unite cultural inspiration, artistic innovation, and timeless craftsmanship in a single creation.

View 1 of Lot 2243: Bamboo Coussin, Reference 78102 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1975

bamboo coussin, reference 78102 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1975

Cartier Cheich A historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, Circa 2010 Dial: white Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: No. 1, 3316AF and 62020C Closure: brown Cartier leather strap and 18k white gold folding clasp Size: 38 mm length x 27 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier Certificate and presentation box The story begins with a race across the desert. Founded in 1978 by famed motorcyclist Thierry Sabine after he himself got lost during a desert rally race, Paris Dakar immediately gained the reputation of being the ultimate endurance automobile race in the world. Beginning in the French capitol, the gruelling twenty day race would end an astonishing 10,000 kilometers away in Dakar, Senegal, with enrollment open to anyone across three categories: motorcycle, car and truck. Combining adventure, camaraderie and both human and mechanical endurance, for three consecutive weeks both man and machine were pushed to the absolute limit in some of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. Inspired by this magnificent spectacle and fueled by their historic spirit for adventure, Cartier was eager to get involved and agreed to sponsor Paris Dakar in two ways. One of the most difficult stages of the race was the crossing of the Tenere, a 1,500 kilometer wide behemoth often referred to as “the desert that scares the desert”. The famous stage was christened the “Raid Santos of Cartier”, paying tribute to the daring aviator whom the world’s first wristwatch was made for. Second and more famously was the Cartier Challenge. Starting in 1983, Cartier announced that any racer who was able to win consecutive editions of Paris Dakar would be awarded the Cartier Challenge Trophy, which instead of being a cup, took the shape of a wristwatch. Cartier knew that to commemorate the winner of such a momentous achievement, the watch had to be every bit as daring as Paris Dakar itself. Cartier is masterful at taking inspiration from culturally significant source material while remaining tasteful in its designs, and for the Challenge Trophy, La Maison looked toward the soul of the race, the desert. Though the Sahara was the adoptive home to Paris Dakar, the real inhabitants were the Tuareg people. The men of the tribe wore distinctive blue headscarves, Cheich in French, earning them the nickname “blue men of the desert”. Cartier had found the perfect inspiration. The Paris Dakar Cartier Challenge ran yearly between 1983 and 1985. As luck would have it, it would not take long for someone to walk away with the prize. Gaston Rahier, considered to be one of the greatest champions in motorsports history, proved himself worthy of his title “King of the Desert” by winning the 1984 and 1985 editions and became the first recipient of the Cartier Challenge Trophy. Tragically, he was also to be the only recipient of the Trophy, as the following year in 1986, founder Thierry Sabine passed away in a helicopter accident, and the Cartier Challenge died with him. A total of four examples of the mythical Cartier Cheich were produced in the period. The first two were made in 1983 with the launch of the Cartier Challenge, one men’s and one women’s. Another was created specially for Thierry Sabine, though the current whereabouts of this watch are unknown. After the men’s example was awarded to Gaston Rahier, a final fourth one was created for the next winner, but was never awarded. In 2022, Sotheby’s proudly auctioned the Gaston Rahier example, offered directly from Rahier’s family, for a price in excess of one million euros, a fee completely befitting of the rarest and most fabled Cartier wristwatch shape. For decades, that was it: one lost, one sold and two in Cartier’s archive collection. But impossibly, a fifth was born. For Giorgio Seragnoli, co-author of the famous Cartier Bianco book and indeed owner of the most significant collection of white metal Cartier watches of all time, perhaps the only trophy watch that was left for him to possess was the ultimate trophy of all, that of Paris Dakar and the Cartier Challenge, and only for him would Cartier oblige. In 2010, they created their most extraordinary special commission ever, a unique white gold Cheich wristwatch, No. 1 of 1. The result was the ultimate combination of anything any collector could ever want: the rarest and most hallowed shape ever made by Cartier, with the richest history ever imbued upon one of their designs, created in a unique white gold execution for their most significant collector, for a calibre of request that the brand would never again be willing to accept. Sotheby’s is proud, humbled and elated to present the most impossible, the most triumphant, the most elusive and the most breathtaking Cartier wristwatch ever created.

View 1 of Lot 2292: Cheich | A historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, Circa 2010

cheich | a historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, circa 2010

Cartier Tank à Guichets "CPCP", Reference 2817 A limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, Circa 2004 Dial: apertured Calibre: cal. 9752 MC mechanical, 19 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: limited edition 066/100 Closure: black Cartier alligator strap and 18k pink gold folding clasp Size: 40 mm length x 27 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier Certificate, product literature and presentation box It was Louis Cartier who pushed the philosophy of Art Deco minimalism to its purest expression with the introduction of the Tank à Guichets in 1928. Famously worn by jazz legend Duke Ellington, the model has since achieved iconic status within the maison's rich design legacy. The present lot represents a faithful reinterpretation of this groundbreaking design, unveiled as part of Cartier's highly coveted Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). Produced in a strictly limited series of just 100 examples in pink gold, it embodies an uncompromising approach to elegance and restraint. Distinguished by its satin-finished gold façade, the watch dispenses entirely with a conventional dial, revealing only two apertures: a jumping hour display at 12 o’clock and a minute display at 6 o’clock. This radical simplification of form not only highlights the ingenuity of its digital-style display but also underscores the enduring modernity of Cartier's vision.

View 1 of Lot 2228: Tank à Guichets "CPCP", Reference 2817 | A limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, Circa 2004

tank à guichets "cpcp", reference 2817 | a limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, circa 2004

Cartier Couteau A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925 Dial: gilt engine-turned dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: cal. 17’’’, frosted gilt lever movement signed Cartier, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring Case: 18k yellow gold case, engine-turned front and back cover with white champlevé enamel border, front cover with polished chapter ring with white champlevé enamel Arabic numerals and inner minute ring, polished central back cover with white champlevé enamel initials BB Case number: snap on back cover numbered 2‘679 and 2’250, front cover numbered 2’679, inside front cover, back cover and pendant stamped with French owl import hallmarks, bow stamped with maker’s hallmark Size: 47 mm diameter Accessories: none In the 20th century, Cartier’s vintage pocket watches were best known for being ultra thin. Whether simple or highly complications, Cartier always pushed the limits to make them as thin as possible. Cartier named this model “Couteau” (French for “knife”) because the case is under 4 mm thick. Made around the 1930s, the present watch uses an ultra-thin movement just under 2 mm, supplied from the European Watch Co. (EWC). Founded in the 1920s, as a joint venture company between Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, EWC exclusively supplied Cartier with high-quality LeCoultre movements. The movement is gilt and inlay at least 16 jewels to ensure the movement can be smoothly operated. To protect the fragile balance wheel, three steel screws are evenly placed surrounding it for extra support. The dial has a gilt background with engine-turned various patterns, giving the dial a richly layered sense under light. The half-hunting case features a hinged front cover and snap on back cover, fully engine-turned, and decorated with simple white enamel lines, showcasing Cartier’s excellent sense of balance in design. Both the hour numerals on the front cover and the original owner’s initials on the back are using champlevé enamel. Couteau series watches with a half-hunting case are very rare in the market today. Also, there is little room for extra decoration due to such thin cases. This makes a Couteau pocket watch featuring both champlevé enamel and engine-turned engraving even more rare and valuable.

View 1 of Lot 2474: Couteau | A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925

couteau | a fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, circa 1925

Corum Twenty Dollar Liberty Head A yellow gold coin watch, Circa 1970 Dial: gilt Calibre: mechanical, 18 jewels Movement number: 512’849 Case: 18k yellow gold, snap on case back Case number: 552’074 Size: 34.5 mm diameter Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none Corum has had a long and storied history with the coin watch, producing them almost since the brand’s inception, and the present watch is a quintessential example. Concealed within a 20 dollar “Liberty head” coin minted in 1893 sits the 18k yellow gold watch that reveals itself when the discreetly hidden button is pushed.

View 1 of Lot 2296: Twenty Dollar Liberty Head | A yellow gold coin watch, Circa 1970

Results for "Pushead"