With royal warrants ranging from Thailand to Russia and much of Europe, it is no surprise that King Edward VII of England famously referred to Cartier as the ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’. Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier, the firm came to dominate international jewellery design in the early 20th century under the auspices of his three enterprising sons: Louis Cartier in Paris, Pierre Cartier in New York and Jacques Cartier in London. With a roster of visionary designers such as Charles Jacqueau and Pierre Lemarchand, and charismatic creative director Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s designs articulated a wide range of influences into highly original and elegant jewels that defined their eras. Their ‘Tutti Frutti’ pieces brought carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires adapted from Indian jewels together in riotous combination from the mid 1920s, while their opulent ‘big cat’ jewels draped themselves across such legendary collectors as Barbara Hutton and the Duchess of Windsor, and became the house’s most beloved mascots. Cartier continues to inspire collectors worldwide with such design classics such as ‘Juste un Clou’ and ‘LOVE’ bracelets, as well as the versatile ‘Tank’ range of watches, and their supremely imaginative high jewellery collections.

Cartier

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch/cartier?waysToBuy=buyNow" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Cartier</a> card and presentation non-Cartier box.

Cartier Tank Louis (Reference WJTA0011). A 29.5mm white gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch. 2018

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch/cartier?waysToBuy=buyNow" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Cartier</a> box.

Tank Louis (Reference WT200006). A 40.4mm white gold diamond set manual wind wristwatch.

Tank Louis Large (Reference WJTA0014). A 33.7mm rose gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch. 2019

Important Watches

Cartier Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 8970 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 124776 AF Closure: unsigned red alligator strap and gold-plated buckle Size: 47 mm length x 22 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none In the pantheon of Cartier wristwatch designs, there are several categories that have a bearing on both collectability and price, with the majority of creations by Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier becoming the most popular and important. These include the Tank Louis, Santos, Crash and also the Baignoire. However, the Baignoire would join the hallowed ranks of models which would grace the drafting tables of both great men. Indeed, the original design which would eventually become the Baignoire was conceived by Louis Cartier himself and presented to Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess of Russia. Decades later, the one-off creation would be reinterpreted by Jean-Jacques Cartier, head of the London branch, into what was then known as the Oval and Maxi Oval. Still produced in small quantities, as were all watches made by the London workshop, these designs served as the launchpad for what would eventually become the Baignoire and Bagnoire Allongée. After Cartier left family ownership in the 1970s, the Baignoire name was finally given to the Oval-shaped wristwatch, with the Bagnoire Allongée first appearing in 1991 as an oversized offering calling back to the London Maxi Oval. The Allongée was never made in large quantities with the present example belongs to a subsequent run produced during the early 2000s, and it is imbued with the glorious history of both the brand and the men who made it what it was, Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier.

View 1 of Lot 2157: Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005

baignoire allongée, reference 2674 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 2005

Rendered in platinum, the present watch is highly collectible due to its salmon sunburst dial and ultra thin case. The watch was made to celebrate its founder, Louis-François <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch/cartier" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Cartier</a>. The watch is numbered 48 of a limited edition of 70 pieces only.&nbsp;

Tank (Reference 1601) A limited edition ultra slim platinum mechanical wristwatch with salmon dial, Made to commemorate Louis-François Cartier, Circa 1997

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch/cartier?waysToBuy=buyNow" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Cartier</a> box and card.

Tank Louis Small (Reference WGTA0011). A 33.7mm rose gold manual wind wristwatch. 2023

Tank Louis (Reference WJTA0011). A 29.5mm white gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch. 2017

Tank Louis Medium (Reference WGTA0067). A 33.7mm yellow gold quartz wristwatch.

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