Important Watches

Movado for Cartier, Paris A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955 Dial: black galvanic dial co-signed Movado and Cartier, applied gold Arabic and baton hour indexes, dauphine hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular movement signed Movado, wound via opening and closing of covers, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, Incabloc shock absorber Case: 18k yellow gold, sliding engine-turned basketweave decorated covers opening and closing on runners, gold inner case frame with steel sprung levers connected to steel cams to wind the movement with the action of opening and closing the case, polished movement case back with hinged folding strut stand, flat notched crown with Movado emblem, inside case back with Movado logo, Swiss Helvetia head assay mark, 18k/0.750 stamps, Poinçon de Maître hammer head 115 Case number: 18’319, 1’268, 3’266, 447, inner case frame numbered 47 Size: 45 mm length x 30 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box The name Ermeto is derived from the Greek word meaning “sealed,” highlighting the model’s resistance to dirt and moisture. The design was developed by Huguenin Frères of Le Locle and patented in Germany on 12th October 1926 under DRP no. 443 555. Shortly thereafter, Movado acquired the rights to market the Ermeto, launching it in 1926 with the calibre 150MN movement. One of the most successful purse watch designs of all time, the Ermeto was produced in a wide variety of configurations, including movements that were manually wound, case wound or 8-day going, as well as models with calendar or alarm functions. Over the years, the Ermeto featured an array of case and dial designs, becoming one of Movado’s most recognized and iconic pieces. Among its admirers was Andy Warhol, a devoted Movado enthusiast who owned at least six different versions of the Ermeto spanning various periods. Although many examples survive, solid gold variants remain relatively rare, and examples made for Cartier are particularly rare. This particular model, created for Cartier circa 1955, features an unusual basketweave design – a pattern also found on another Cartier purse watch of similar date with a movement by Jaeger LeCoultre. The Ermeto shown here incorporates Movado’s ingenious ‘automatic’ case winding system, patented in 1928. When the sliding covers are opened, sprung levers and cams engage the winding train and crown, ‘automatically’ winding the watch. This clever piece of horological engineering ensures that each opening and closing of the case provides approximately four hours of running time, meaning the user only needs to open the case six times a day to power the watch for a full 24 hours.

View 1 of Lot 2230: A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955

a yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, circa 1955

Cartier, Paris London retailed Tortue à Pattes An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered beneath dial 27’042, 5 Case: 18k gold tonneau-form case, the case top inlaid with blue enamel interspersed with gold square and dot motifs, gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. France Case number: inside case back hand stamped 17’082, outside case back engraved initials V.D. and hand stamped 17’082, 27’042 Closure: black unsigned fabric strap and 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle Size: 27 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier Tortue wristwatch, introduced by Louis Cartier in 1912, was a groundbreaking design that helped redefine the concept of the luxury wristwatch. Its distinctive tortoise-shaped case, known as the Tortue à Pattes (Turtle with Paws), was a charming and elegant departure from traditional round watches.

View 1 of Lot 2475: London retailed | Tortue à Pattes | An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926

london retailed | tortue à pattes | an unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, circa 1926

Cartier, Paris Baguette Coulissante An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 4’’’ Duo-Plan calibre 409/PB signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., grained and pearled decoration, lever escapement, 16 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, with U.S. import code EXU [B] Movement number: numbered 246’879 Case: 18k yellow gold polished rectangular case with stepped sides, satin-finished upper body with similarly finished panel sliding to reveal the dial, gold screw-set lug bars, case back with rear-set notched winding crown Case number: outside case back stamped 18k, hand stamped 90’572, 1’615, Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche and further rubbed lozenge-shaped stamp, underside of case top and central sliding panel hand stamped 90’572, panel additionally with Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche Closure: 18k yellow gold herringbone-pattern woven bracelet with contrasting pink gold deployant buckle, hand stamped 1’265 and with punch mark Size: 34 mm length x 15 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 175 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box Edmond Jaeger’s patent No. 157094, filed on 16 April 1931, describes an innovative watch design featuring a sliding cover mechanism. The mechanism is seamlessly integrated into the watch case, preserving the timepiece’s elegant appearance. Cartier’s adoption of this case design in its Baguette model underscores the firm’s commitment to innovative watchmaking. The design features a unique mechanism where the central panel of the case slides to reveal the dial. This ingenious feature adds both functionality and a sense of intrigue to the timepiece while protecting the dial when not in use. The placement of the winding crown to the case back ensures that the model’s clean lines remain uninterrupted. The sliding cover not only adds elegance but also serves a practical purpose, making the watch particularly suited to active lifestyles. Much like the Cartier Basculante or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, it offers a clever solution for dial protection and is ideal for sporting activities. Sliding the cover to reveal the dial provides a smooth and satisfying experience, combining practicality with thoughtful design. This harmonious integration of form and function exemplifies Cartier’s mastery in creating watches that are both innovative and a pleasure to use.

View 1 of Lot 2487: Baguette Coulissante | An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46

baguette coulissante | an unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, circa 1945-46

Cartier Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 8970 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 124776 AF Closure: unsigned red alligator strap and gold-plated buckle Size: 47 mm length x 22 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none In the pantheon of Cartier wristwatch designs, there are several categories that have a bearing on both collectability and price, with the majority of creations by Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier becoming the most popular and important. These include the Tank Louis, Santos, Crash and also the Baignoire. However, the Baignoire would join the hallowed ranks of models which would grace the drafting tables of both great men. Indeed, the original design which would eventually become the Baignoire was conceived by Louis Cartier himself and presented to Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess of Russia. Decades later, the one-off creation would be reinterpreted by Jean-Jacques Cartier, head of the London branch, into what was then known as the Oval and Maxi Oval. Still produced in small quantities, as were all watches made by the London workshop, these designs served as the launchpad for what would eventually become the Baignoire and Bagnoire Allongée. After Cartier left family ownership in the 1970s, the Baignoire name was finally given to the Oval-shaped wristwatch, with the Bagnoire Allongée first appearing in 1991 as an oversized offering calling back to the London Maxi Oval. The Allongée was never made in large quantities with the present example belongs to a subsequent run produced during the early 2000s, and it is imbued with the glorious history of both the brand and the men who made it what it was, Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier.

View 1 of Lot 2157: Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005

baignoire allongée, reference 2674 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 2005

Cartier, Paris New York retailed A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927 Dial: silvered dial with radial engine-turned decoration, signed Cartier, high sheen concentric circular engine-turned chapter ring with Roman numerals, outer grained minute ring, chapter and minute ring with filet sauté borders, Cartier Orientales blued steel hands Calibre: 16’’’ movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, 8 adjustments, flat hairspring Movement number: movement beneath dial with pearled finish and hand stamped 1’3106, 5 Case: 18k yellow gold polished case, the back with Art Deco geometric intertwined monogram, flat band, two-pronged pendant with triangular bow Case number: pendant numbered 036, 36, bow with French eagle’s head assay, internal rim of case body hand stamped 18'787, 13'106, bezel interior 18'787, inside back with French eagle’s head assay, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and hand stamped 13'106 Size: 40 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier presentation box The elegantly arranged dial of this watch draws inspiration from a pocket watch with a double chapter ring that Cartier introduced in the early 1910s. These original double chapter ring watches featured two distinct high-sheen rings: one at the outer edge of the dial displaying hours in the standard 12 hour format, and an additional inner 24-hour ring neatly positioned between the dial’s centre and the outer chapter. They employed an hour hand with a double taper – essentially two spade tips – that simultaneously indicated the time on both the 12-hour and 24-hour calibrated rings. In this watch the concept has been refined and advanced, with the hour and minute chapter rings entirely separated. The layout draws inspiration from so-called “regulator” dials, found on some clocks and watches, where a subsidiary dial displays the hours while the minutes are shown on the main dial’s outer edge. Here, the elongated minute hand stretches dramatically to the grained minute track at the edge of the dial, ensuring precision and clarity. Meanwhile, the bold Roman numerals for the hours are enhanced by the high sheen of the circular engine-turned chapter ring, set against the radial engine-turned body of the dial with its wave or moiré-like effect. Together, these elements highlight the exceptional skill and artistry of the dial maker, combining multiple decorative techniques to create a design of unparalleled refinement – one of the finest dial creations of the period.

View 1 of Lot 2483: New York retailed | A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927

new york retailed | a very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, circa 1927

Cartier, Paris Santos Droit A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel hands Calibre: later replacement 9¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre K818/1 movement signed Cartier Inc. and with U.S. import code VXN, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and 2 positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 809’322 Case: 18k yellow gold case, polished upper body, chamfered bezel secured by eight pink gold screws mounted from the underside, the lugs with gold screw-set bars, case secured by four gold screws to case sides, sapphire cabochon-set beaded crown, case top with French eagle’s head assay mark, case back interior with Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: lug numbered to underside 557 Closure: camel unsigned leather strap and early 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with ardillon buckle numbered 10’355, stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and twice faintly with EJ punch mark Size: 31 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none In 1904 Louis Cartier (1875-1942) supplied his pioneering aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932), with a wristwatch that could be used to consult the time while at the controls of one of his airships. Louis Cartier was passionately interested in watches and sought to develop a greater range of both pocket and wristwatches. He quickly recognised the potential of the wristwatch which hitherto had almost exclusively been regarded as a jewelry item for ladies. By attaching a watch to the wrist of one of the most famous and daring celebrities of his day, Louis Cartier was undoubtedly intending to demonstrate the practicality and allure of outwardly wearing a beautifully crafted timepiece. In 1914, Cartier released a new version of the Santos, named the Santos Droit, of which the present wristwatch is a very rare and early example. The Santos Droit has lugs which curve around the ends of the case rather than pinching inwards as seen on the earlier Santos-Dumont design. Also noticeable is the bezel which, on the Santos Droit, is chamfered in contrast to the rounded finish of the Santos-Dumont. The bezel is secured via screws mounted from the underside of the case top, these screws being pink gold and providing a subtle contrast to the yellow gold bezel.

View 1 of Lot 2484: Santos Droit | A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915

santos droit | a very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, circa 1915

Cartier, Geneva New York retailed Tank L.C. A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, Circa 1975 Dial: plain gilded satin-finished dial signed Cartier, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 7.75’’’ ETA calibre 2512 movement signed Bueche-Girod, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, adjusted in 5 positions, flat hairspring Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, polished rounded brancards, slim crossbars, gold screw-set lug bars, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, satin-finished case back signed Cartier 18K, inside case back with Swiss Helvetia head assay, stamped 18k/0.750, signed Cartier, Swiss Made, Poinçon de Maître key 38 for Max Fuchs, Geneva Case number: numbered 110’963 Closure: 18k yellow gold bangle-form rigid bracelet with pink gold deployant buckle, fold-over lug clasps, buckle and bangle stamped 18k and signed Cartier Size: 27 mm length x 20 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 155 mm Accessories: none Over time, the Tank L.C. became one of Cartier’s most defining designs, ultimately dominating the Tank lineup in the last quarter of the 20th century. This particular interpretation elevates the model’s minimalist essence, embracing a monochromatic, sculptural aesthetic, with the richness of yellow gold permeating the entire design. All calibrations and numerals have been deliberately removed from the dial, ensuring a seamless visual flow from the bangle bracelet to the case and dial, allowing the warmth and opulence of yellow gold to take centre stage. The gold expanse is punctuated only by the blued steel hands and the sapphire cabochon-set winding crown, subtle yet iconic Cartier details that add depth and contrast without disrupting the watch’s fluid, unbroken geometry.

View 1 of Lot 2467: New York retailed | Tank L.C. | A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, Circa 1975

new york retailed | tank l.c. | a rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, circa 1975

Cartier, Paris Diabolo A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1908 Dial: silvered engine-turned dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel moon hands Calibre: 10’’’ unsigned Swiss frosted gilded bar movement, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring, hand-setting activated via olivette beside winding crown Movement number: numbered beneath dial 20’095, 5 Case: 18k yellow gold case, translucent pink guilloché enamel bezel framed by an opaque white enamel band, platinum and rose-cut diamond-set inner bezel, ogival cabochon sapphire set crown, screw-set vis armurier lugs, the bars terminating to each side with a single collet-set sapphire cabochon, snap-on case back Case number: inner bezel with hand stamped number 15 to reverse, inside back hand stamped 15, with Edmond Jaeger punch mark and French eagle’s head control mark Closure: purple unsigned leather strap and later 18k yellow gold deployant clasp signed Cartier and with French eagle’s head control mark Size: 26 mm diameter Accessories: none The Cartier Diabolo wristwatch was produced with a variety of differently coloured guilloché enamel bezels, frequently with inner bezels set with diamonds. The use of cabochon-set stones for the winding crown would become a signature feature of Cartier wristwatches. When re-introduced circa 1990, this case design became known as the Diabolo due to the case’s resemblance to the top used in the game ‘Le Diablo Japonais’.

View 1 of Lot 2462: Diabolo | A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1908

diabolo | a yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, circa 1908

Cartier, James Schulz New York retailed Clip de Revers A yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by James Schulz, Circa 1945 Dial: matt white dial signed Cartier, raised Arabic and baton hour indexes, gilded baton hands Calibre: 5½’’’ Swiss movement signed J. Schulz, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, U.S. customs import code JXZ Case: 14k yellow gold polished rectangular case, chamfered bezel, integrated gold clip hinge, outside case back engraved A.B.H., rear of clip and inside case back signed JSch for J. Schulz and stamped 14k Case number: underside of clip hand stamped 5’228, inside case back numbered 470’532 Size: 23 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: none This sophisticated and stylish clip watch is a fine example of the collaboration between Cartier and the renowned New York watchmaker James Schulz. Measuring 20 mm in width, it was designed to be clipped onto a bag, purse, or directly onto clothing as a brooch, making it a versatile accessory. Produced by Schulz for Cartier, this watch reflects the type of thoughtfully designed and highly functional items that appealed to Cartier’s discerning clientele as elegant and practical gifts. James Schulz, a highly regarded independent watchmaker, began his career at Tiffany & Co. before collaborating with Cartier during the mid-20th century. Known for his exceptional craftsmanship, Schulz created bespoke timepieces that combined technical innovation with refined aesthetics. Among his most celebrated works is an ultra-complicated wristwatch from the late 1920s, featuring a movement supplied by Victorin Piguet and incorporating a single-button chronograph, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater.

View 1 of Lot 2231: New York retailed | Clip de Revers | A yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by James Schulz, Circa 1945

new york retailed | clip de revers | a yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by james schulz, circa 1945

Cartier Couteau A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925 Dial: gilt engine-turned dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: cal. 17’’’, frosted gilt lever movement signed Cartier, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring Case: 18k yellow gold case, engine-turned front and back cover with white champlevé enamel border, front cover with polished chapter ring with white champlevé enamel Arabic numerals and inner minute ring, polished central back cover with white champlevé enamel initials BB Case number: snap on back cover numbered 2‘679 and 2’250, front cover numbered 2’679, inside front cover, back cover and pendant stamped with French owl import hallmarks, bow stamped with maker’s hallmark Size: 47 mm diameter Accessories: none In the 20th century, Cartier’s vintage pocket watches were best known for being ultra thin. Whether simple or highly complications, Cartier always pushed the limits to make them as thin as possible. Cartier named this model “Couteau” (French for “knife”) because the case is under 4 mm thick. Made around the 1930s, the present watch uses an ultra-thin movement just under 2 mm, supplied from the European Watch Co. (EWC). Founded in the 1920s, as a joint venture company between Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, EWC exclusively supplied Cartier with high-quality LeCoultre movements. The movement is gilt and inlay at least 16 jewels to ensure the movement can be smoothly operated. To protect the fragile balance wheel, three steel screws are evenly placed surrounding it for extra support. The dial has a gilt background with engine-turned various patterns, giving the dial a richly layered sense under light. The half-hunting case features a hinged front cover and snap on back cover, fully engine-turned, and decorated with simple white enamel lines, showcasing Cartier’s excellent sense of balance in design. Both the hour numerals on the front cover and the original owner’s initials on the back are using champlevé enamel. Couteau series watches with a half-hunting case are very rare in the market today. Also, there is little room for extra decoration due to such thin cases. This makes a Couteau pocket watch featuring both champlevé enamel and engine-turned engraving even more rare and valuable.

View 1 of Lot 2474: Couteau | A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925

couteau | a fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, circa 1925

Dial: blue aventurine hardstone Calibre: cal. 3055 automatic, 27 jewels Movement number: 1'753'553 Case: 18k yellow gold, screw-down case back Case number: 9'884'843 Closure: 18k yellow gold Rolex President bracelet with folding clasp Size: 35 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 185mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 38: Day-Date, Reference 18038 | A  yellow gold wristwatch with day, date, bracelet and blue aventurine hardstone dial | Circa 1985

day-date, reference 18038 | a yellow gold wristwatch with day, date, bracelet and blue aventurine hardstone dial | circa 1985

Cartier, Paris A platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, Circa 1913 Dial: silver engine-turned dial signed Cartier, the edge with barleycorn decoration, each hour section of lobed design, central stylised flower-form motif, black Arabic numerals, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10’’’ unsigned frosted gilded bar movement, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring Movement number: numbered beneath dial 6’768, 5 Case: platinum case, the front and back of the scalloped case sides, bow and inverted triangular pendant all set with rose-cut diamonds, platinum case back with rounded edges and centred by a rose-cut diamond surrounded by small spikes of rose-cut diamonds, beaded diamond-set crown Case number: bezel interior numbered 6’768, inside case back numbered 6’768, • 637 • Closure: later inverted 18k white gold triangular-form brooch set with 21 round-cut diamonds (approx. 1 to 1.2 carats) Size: 29 mm diameter Accessories: none Platinum’s introduction into Cartier’s repertoire began modestly in the mid-19th century, with its use in small accessories such as shirt buttons and cufflinks. These early experiments reflected the limited availability and processing difficulties of the time. By the end of the 1800s, however, Wilhelm Carl Heraeus’s invention of a new melting process unlocked platinum’s potential, enabling it to become a cornerstone of Cartier’s designs. The firm embraced this innovation wholeheartedly, creating exquisite pieces that met the demands of an elite clientele seeking novelty and sophistication.

View 1 of Lot 2469: A platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, Circa 1913

a platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, circa 1913

Cartier, Paris A platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, Circa 1925 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France with vertical engine-turning, outer minute track with triangular-form hour markers, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10’’’ LeCoultre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 12’790, 1 Case: rock crystal case with platinum mounts Case number: numbered 3’946 to exterior and 51 to inside edge, back of chapter ring’s XII partially stamped 2 5, bezel interior stamped 22’451 Size: 44 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier presentation box The art of carving and shaping rock crystal, a transparent and colourless form of quartz, dates back to antiquity. Exquisite objects were made in crystal by the Romans, but the working of rock crystal reached an unparalleled level of sophistication and refinement in Egypt during the Fatimid period (969-1171). During this era, artisans in Cairo produced extraordinary rock crystal vessels for their rulers, demonstrating remarkable skill and artistry.

View 1 of Lot 2470: A platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, Circa 1925

a platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, circa 1925

Cartier, London Baignoire An oval yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1967-68 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel pointed baton hands Calibre: 4½’’’ tonneau-form movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre Co., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered 1’900’271 Case: 18k yellow gold oval case with rounded sides, chamfered inner bezel, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by four screws to case sides, concealed gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back numbered • 10608 • and with [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark, London hallmarks and date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68 Case number: outside case back hand stamped • 10608 • and 8’269 Closure: red unsigned satin strap and 18k yellow gold deployant clasp with D-shaped buckle, London hallmarks with date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68 and [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped numbering 1’408 Size: 24 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: none The Baignoire is one of Cartier’s most enduring and recognisable wristwatch designs, celebrated for its elegant oval silhouette and refined proportions. Introduced as early as the 1910s, the model embodies the Maison’s ability to transform simple geometric forms into timeless and sophisticated creations.

View 1 of Lot 2478: Baignoire | An oval yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1967-68

baignoire | an oval yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1967-68

Dial: black tapisserie Calibre: cal. K2121 automatic, 36 jewels Movement number: 138'916 Case: stainless steel, bezel secured by 8 screws Case number: A1'515, 80'515 Closure: stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet and folding clasp Size: 39 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 170 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Audemars Piguet Certificate of Authenticity and presentation box with outer packaging

View 1 of Lot 175: Royal Oak 'Jumbo', Reference 5402ST, 'A Series' | A stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet | Circa 1974

royal oak 'jumbo', reference 5402st, 'a series' | a stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet | circa 1974

Cartier, Paris An onyx, silver-gilt, yellow gold, enamel and diamond-set 8-day desk clock, Circa 1919 Dial: champagne dial signed Cartier, France, engine-turned sunburst pattern radiating downward from 12 o’clock, plain matt chapter ring with black radial Roman numerals, filet sauté bordered minute track, diamond-set hands, plain rectangular panel signed Cartier Calibre: 19½’’’ frosted gilded 8-day duration movement signed E.W. & Co. Inc. France for the European Watch and Clock Co., lever escapement, 15 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, blued steel Breguet hairspring Movement number: numbered beneath dial 204’200, 43 Case: square onyx case with rounded corners, two apertures to back with gilded mounts for winding and hand-setting, gilded decorative carrying handle with banded enamel inlay to front, silver-gilt bezel with gold and enamel banded motifs at the quarters, bezel with French boar/eagle mixed metal assay mark for silver and gold Case number: inside case back hand stamped 2’453 Size: 60 mm width x 26 mm thick x 59 mm height Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 2237: An onyx, silver-gilt, gold, enamel and diamond-set 8-day desk clock, Circa 1919

an onyx, silver-gilt, gold, enamel and diamond-set 8-day desk clock, circa 1919

Cartier, Paris London retailed A platinum and diamond-set baguette-form pendant watch with matching diamond-set bar brooch, Circa 1913 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel spade hands Calibre: 5¾’’’ baguette-form movement signed Cartier Paris Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 12’273 Case: platinum octagonal case, millegrain rose-cut diamond-set bezel, plain polished case back secured by four screws to sides Case number: case back hand stamped 12’273, 5’262, • 332 •, inside case back hand stamped 5’262, • 332 • Closure: platinum bar brooch set with a row of rose-cut diamonds and three central round-cut diamonds, all in millegrain setting, two short chains joining to the watch case, pin with safety catch to back of brooch, further short chain with safety buttonhole/lapel bar Size: 32 mm length x 15 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box Made by Cartier in circa 1913, this baguette-form pendant watch brings the modern use of platinum to the forefront of its design and is one of the first pieces to carry the dog’s head platinum mark introduced into France in December 1912. Platinum’s strength, purity and versatility allowed Cartier to achieve intricate detailing, as seen in the finely executed millegrain setting that frames the watch’s bezel and adorns the pendant brooch. The rose-cut diamonds, meticulously arranged, shimmer with a delicate radiance that contrasts elegantly with the refined brilliance of the platinum. Cartier’s adoption of platinum coincided with its collaboration with haute couture, blurring the lines between high jewellery and horology.

View 1 of Lot 2460: London retailed | A platinum and diamond-set baguette-form pendant watch with matching diamond-set bar brooch, Circa 1913

london retailed | a platinum and diamond-set baguette-form pendant watch with matching diamond-set bar brooch, circa 1913

Cartier, Paris Obus A square yellow gold wristwatch with bullet-form lugs and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1925 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France, stretched black radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track Calibre: 9’’’ circular movement signed European Clock and Watch Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, 18 jewels, bi-metallic balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, Breguet hairspring Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 23’934 Case: 18k yellow gold square case, chamfered bezel, bullet-form lugs, gold screw-set lug bars, case back secured by four screws to sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. France Case number: inside case back hand stamped 16’156, 70’351, case back exterior numbered 23’934, 16’156, additional rubbed number possibly 1’898 and with French eagle’s head assay mark Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark, signed Cartier and marked 18k Size: 29.5 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none The Obus takes its name from the French word for “shell” and was, according to legend, inspired by the shape of artillery shells. Introduced in 1923, the model features distinctive rounded, bullet-shaped lugs that elegantly integrate the wrist strap with the watch case. As one of the earliest examples of “fancy” lugs in wristwatch design, the Obus has remained a popular model over the decades. Its periodic re-releases reflect subtle adaptations to contemporary tastes while preserving its core design elements.

View 1 of Lot 2495: Obus | A square yellow gold wristwatch with bullet-form lugs and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1925

obus | a square yellow gold wristwatch with bullet-form lugs and gold deployant buckle, circa 1925

Cartier, Paris A platinum, yellow gold and diamond-set lady’s rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1920 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute ring Calibre: 6’’’ oval LeCoultre calibre movement signed E. W. & C. Co. Inc. for the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, Breguet hairspring Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 20’062 Case: platinum and yellow gold rectangular case, the platinum bezel set with a row of rose-cut diamonds in millegrain setting, 18k gold case back with vertical satin finish and engraved initials N. L., rubbed assay mark in octagonal cartouche, case back secured by four case screws to case sides, beaded crown, fixed bar lugs Case number: hand stamped 20’062, 10’292 and faintly 9’695, inside case back hand stamped 10’292 Closure: red unsigned fabric strap and later 18k pink gold deployant buckle signed Cartier 18k with BC in cartouche and French assay marks, original rectangular clasp mount set with a row of rose-cut diamonds in platinum Size: 29 mm length x 15 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box During the 1920s, Cartier created a range of exquisite diamond-set cocktail watches for ladies, reflecting the era’s glamour and Art Deco influences. Leveraging Cartier’s expertise as a luxury jeweller, these timepieces were transformed from functional objects into elegant jewellery accessories, often featuring platinum cases, geometric designs, and intricate detailing with diamonds and other precious stones. Cartier’s craftsmanship combined luxurious materials with a sleek, modern aesthetic, making these cocktail watches highly coveted among fashionable women of the time. Their timeless beauty and refined artistry continue to make them iconic pieces in Cartier’s legacy of luxury watchmaking. The modern Cartier gold deployant clasp reuses the original platinum clasp mount that is set with a row of rose-cut diamonds.

View 1 of Lot 2458: A platinum, yellow gold and diamond-set lady’s rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1920

a platinum, yellow gold and diamond-set lady’s rectangular wristwatch, circa 1920

Cartier, Paris London retailed Allongée A rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, Circa 1923 Dial: matt cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner baguette-form chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel spade hands Calibre: 5½’’’ oval movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered beneath dial 21’122 Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, inset straight angled lugs, outside case back with rubbed numbering [X]1122 and 1[XXXX], etch numbered CC 24062, case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘h’ for 1923-24 and (JC) Jacques Cartier punch mark Case number: inside case back and bezel interior each hand stamped 13’082 Closure: unsigned brown leather strap and yellow gold gold deployant buckle with eagle stamp and twice numbered 1’556 Size: 32 mm length x 15 mm width Accessories: none This distinctive Cartier Allongée model presents a unique departure from the more familiar Tank Allongée design. While the classic Allongée typically features straight brancards with rounded sides in the style of the Tank Louis Cartier (Tank L.C.), this model is characterised by a more geometric case design.

View 1 of Lot 2491: London retailed | Allongée | A rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, Circa 1923

london retailed | allongée | a rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, circa 1923

Cartier, Paris New York retailed Tank L.C. A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with unusual sector dial and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1968 Dial: matt white sector dial signed Cartier Paris, black Arabic and long baton hour indexes, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 8¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre movement signed Cartier, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, adjusted to temperatures and three positions, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered 1’760’751 Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case with rounded brancards, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, screw-set lug bars, satin-finished case back secured by four screws to case sides, outside back with French eagle’s head assay mark and Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: outside back numbered 026'271, inside case back numbered 55’326 Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle, with hand stamped numbering 23'137, stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and <EJ> Edmond Jaeger punch mark Size: 27 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: none This example of the Tank L.C. has a very attractive and unusual sector-style layout with a combination of Arabic and elongated baton hour indexes.

View 1 of Lot 2498: New York retailed | Tank L.C. | A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with unusual sector dial and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1968

new york retailed | tank l.c. | a rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with unusual sector dial and gold deployant buckle, circa 1968

Cartier, Paris Jeton An unusual yellow gold openface token-form keyless lever watch, Circa 1910 Dial: silver engine-turned dial signed Cartier, each hour section of lobed design, central stylised flower-form motif, black Arabic numerals with barleycorn decoration above, blued steel Breguet hands, broad plain outer rim concealed by the bezel Calibre: 16’’’ movement signed Cartier Paris, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, eight adjustments, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 1’687 Case: 18k yellow gold in the form of a ship’s wheel, broad flat bezel, the sides of the case with six sapphire-set cabochons, one forming a beaded winding crown, flat polished case back with rounded edges and centred by opaque white enamel monogram Case number: interior of case back and upper case with French head of Socrates assay mark within hexagonal cartouche and hand stamped 3’595, inner rim dial side hand stamped 3’595, 1’687 Size: 45 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier travelling pouch Cartier named this model the Jeton, a versatile term in French that denotes a small, circular, flat object with varied meanings. Historically, a “Jeton” referred to gaming tokens or counters, a connection reflected in the watch’s compact, rounded shape. The term also extends to medals or commemorative pieces, often ornate and symbolic, aligning with the luxurious craftsmanship and decorative details of this timepiece. Additionally, “Jeton” can signify an object imbued with deeper symbolic or sentimental value, underscoring the dual nature of this design as both a functional timepiece and an exceptional luxury object. Its smooth, pebble-like form is not only visually elegant but also satisfyingly tactile, inviting interaction and imbuing it with an intimate, personal quality that transcends mere functionality. This design perfectly embodies Louis Cartier’s vision of creating innovative, elegant, and ultra-slim watches. Central to this achievement was his collaboration with Edmond Jaeger, who, from 1907, was exclusively contracted to supply Cartier with high-quality, slim movements. These precision-engineered mechanisms were instrumental in bringing to life sophisticated timepieces like the Jeton.

View 1 of Lot 2473: Jeton | An unusual yellow gold openface token-form keyless lever watch, Circa 1910

jeton | an unusual yellow gold openface token-form keyless lever watch, circa 1910

Cartier, Paris Diabolo A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1909-10 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, black outer ring with indexes at the quarters, blued steel moon hands Calibre: 9¼’’’ Swiss frosted gilded movement signed Cartier Paris, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with poising and timing screws, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered to dial side 12’495, 3 Case: 18k slim yellow gold case, translucent red guilloché enamel bezel, platinum and rose-cut diamond-set inner bezel, beaded diamond-set crown, screw-set attachés à vis armurier lugs, the bars terminating to each side with a single collet-set rose-cut diamond, rose-cut diamond-set case sides, snap on case back, inside case back with Edmond Jaeger punch mark and French eagle’s head control mark Case number: inside case back hand stamped 4’742 Closure: modern Milanese woven bracelet with original gold deployant clasp and platinum and diamond-set faux buckle-form detailing, the clasp with French eagle’s head control mark, rubbed punch and twice numbered 7’245 Size: 28 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 155 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box One of the earliest wristwatch designs produced by Cartier, the round wristwatch with cabochon stone, rose-cut diamond or pearl-set lugs and crown was first introduced by the firm in 1906. At a time when the majority of wristwatches were mere adaptations of the traditional pocket watch, this was a model unashamedly designed for wrist wear. It is the model’s lugs which are particularly striking. Most early wristwatches had simple wire attachments to secure a wrist strap, these were often soldered onto cases that were indistinguishable from the cases of small pocket watches. Here the lugs are a prominent and integral feature of the model, not only do they serve a practical function, but they also embellish the design, their diamonds complementing the rich lustre of the enamel bezel.

View 1 of Lot 2461: Diabolo | A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1909-10

diabolo | a yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch with bracelet, circa 1909-10

Cartier, London Tank J.J.C. A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, Circa 1962-63 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9¼’’’ Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre K821 signed Cartier Inc., lever escapement, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, adjusted to temperatures and three positions, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber Movement number: main plate numbered 1’449’936 Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case with polished finish, rounded brancards, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by 4 screws to case sides, gold screw-set lug bars Case number: gold case back hand stamped 6689, • 9411 •, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘g’ for 1962 63, hand stamped • 9411 • and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with London hallmarks and date letter ‘g’ for 1962-63, hand stamped twice 0'513 Size: 31 mm length x 23 mm width Accessories: none In 1922 Cartier London established a jewelry workshop called English Art Works (EAW). This was followed, in 1939, by the Wright and Davies workshop which would produce watch cases exclusively for Cartier London. Prior to 1950, research suggests that Wright & Davies were making ladies’ cocktail and jewelry watches. However, from 1950, Cartier London began to sell their own range of established Cartier Paris models that were made in the Wright and Davies workshop. Presumably this new offering was carried out with the support of Cartier Paris – the latter must have assisted with the supply of Jaeger-LeCoultre/EWC movements and the maquettes for producing the iconic Parisian watch models.

View 1 of Lot 2492: Tank J.J.C. | A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, Circa 1962-63

tank j.j.c. | a rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with gold deployant buckle, circa 1962-63

Cartier, Paris Tortue à Pattes An early tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1923 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France, black stretched radial Roman numerals, outer tonneau-form chemin-de-fer minute ring, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed E. W. & C. Co. Ltd. Swiss for the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: signed to movement beneath dial 18’398, 3 Case: 18k yellow gold tonneau-form case, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case back secured by four screws to case sides, screw-set gold lug bars, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Case number: polished case back engraved J. R. Fell Jr., hand stamped numbers 13’227, 18’398 and inside case back hand stamped 13’227 Closure: unsigned camel leather strap and later 18k yellow gold deployant buckle signed Cartier and stamped 18K Size: 31.5 mm length x 25 mm width Accessories: none The case back of this watch is engraved with the name of John R. Fell Jr. In the Jefferson City Post-Tribune on Thursday 23 February 1933.

View 1 of Lot 2490: Tortue à Pattes | An early tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1923

tortue à pattes | an early tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1923

Dial: silvered guilloché Caliber: cal. 10-200 mechanical, 18 jewels Movement number: 741’877 Case: 18k yellow gold, snap on case back Case number: 683’034 Size: 33 mm diameter Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the year of manufacture in 1954 and the date of sale on 30 November 1954

View 1 of Lot 227: Reference 2549 ‘Devil’s Horns’ | An exceptionally rare yellow gold wristwatch with fancy lugs, Made in 1954

reference 2549 ‘devil’s horns’ | an exceptionally rare yellow gold wristwatch with fancy lugs, made in 1954

Dial: silvered, Breguet numerals Caliber: cal. 10GHSM mechanical, 18 jewels Movement number: 34’534 Case: 18k white and green gold, snap on case back Case number: 34’534 Size: 33.8 x 25.8 mm Signed: case, dial and movement signed E. Gübelin Lucerne Box: no Papers: no Accessories: 14k white gold Jacques Kreisler bracelet with folding clasp

View 1 of Lot 42: No. 34534 Coussin Tortue ‘Phase au centre’ | Retailed by E. Gübelin: A historically important and unique white and green gold wristwatch with large moon phases and Breguet numerals, Circa 1926 

no. 34534 coussin tortue ‘phase au centre’ | retailed by e. gübelin: a historically important and unique white and green gold wristwatch with large moon phases and breguet numerals, circa 1926

Dial: silvered Caliber: cal. R 27Q automatic, 39 jewels Movement number: 1’906’043 Case: 18k yellow gold case produced by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, snap on sapphire crystal display back Case number: 2’900’784 Closure: 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle Size: 36 mm diameter Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging **Please note that an Extract for the Archives has been ordered for this timepiece.**

View 1 of Lot 204: Reference 3974J | A yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, and 24 hour indication, Circa 1990

reference 3974j | a yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, and 24 hour indication, circa 1990

Dial: polished gold Caliber: cal. 27-460 automatic, 37 jewels Movement number: 1’112’524 Case: 18k yellow gold, snap on case back Case number: 2’628’329 Closure: 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe stepped link bracelet with folding clasp by Ponti, Gennari & Cie. Size: 40 x 31.5 mm, bracelet circumference approximately 190 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: no Accessories: Patek Philippe presentation box **Please note that an Extract for the Archives has been ordered for this timepiece.**

View 1 of Lot 49: Reference 3463 | A possibly unique yellow gold automatic wristwatch with integrated bracelet and case by Ponti, Gennari & Cie., Circa 1960

reference 3463 | a possibly unique yellow gold automatic wristwatch with integrated bracelet and case by ponti, gennari & cie., circa 1960

Dial: smoked sapphire crystal Caliber: cal. 1514 mechanical, 32 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, sapphire crystal display back secured by four screws Case number: no. 58/68-VIII Closure: 18k pink gold F. P. Journe folding clasp Size: 45.2 x 37.5 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: yes Accessories: F. P. Journe presentation box with outer packaging, Certificate (undated), and polishing cloth

View 1 of Lot 16: Vagabondage III | A limited edition pink gold semi-skeletonized wristwatch with digital jumping hours and seconds, and power reserve indication, Circa 2017

vagabondage iii | a limited edition pink gold semi-skeletonized wristwatch with digital jumping hours and seconds, and power reserve indication, circa 2017

Dial: brushed stainless steel apertures Caliber: mechanical, jeweled Case: aluminum, stainless steel and diamond-set Size: 6.2" wide x 15.2" long x 4.7" high Signed: body and movement Box: yes Papers: yes Accessories: Tiffany & Co. outer box, Certificate of Authenticity certifying the present piece as part of a limited edition of 10, Diamond Certificates for the brilliant-cut round diamonds set on each stainless steel spoke, Instruction Manual, and handling precautions paper

View 1 of Lot 104: Reference 73165164 Time for Speed | A limited edition stainless steel, aluminum and diamond-set race car clock with 8-day power reserve, Circa 2023

reference 73165164 time for speed | a limited edition stainless steel, aluminum and diamond-set race car clock with 8-day power reserve, circa 2023

Dial: sunburst brown Caliber: cal. 324 S C automatic, 29 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, screw down sapphire crystal display back Closure: 18k pink gold Patek Philippe bracelet with double folding clasp Size: 40 mm diameter Signed: case, dial and movement Box: yes Papers: yes Accessories: Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging, factory packaging, Certificate of Origin dated 2016, Operating Instructions booklet, booklets, leather bi-fold, and hang tag

View 1 of Lot 29: Reference 5711/1R-001 Nautilus | A pink gold automatic wristwatch with date and bracelet, Single Sealed, Circa 2016

Results for "Important Watches"