Important Watches

Movado for Cartier, Paris A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955 Dial: black galvanic dial co-signed Movado and Cartier, applied gold Arabic and baton hour indexes, dauphine hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular movement signed Movado, wound via opening and closing of covers, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, Incabloc shock absorber Case: 18k yellow gold, sliding engine-turned basketweave decorated covers opening and closing on runners, gold inner case frame with steel sprung levers connected to steel cams to wind the movement with the action of opening and closing the case, polished movement case back with hinged folding strut stand, flat notched crown with Movado emblem, inside case back with Movado logo, Swiss Helvetia head assay mark, 18k/0.750 stamps, Poinçon de Maître hammer head 115 Case number: 18’319, 1’268, 3’266, 447, inner case frame numbered 47 Size: 45 mm length x 30 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box The name Ermeto is derived from the Greek word meaning “sealed,” highlighting the model’s resistance to dirt and moisture. The design was developed by Huguenin Frères of Le Locle and patented in Germany on 12th October 1926 under DRP no. 443 555. Shortly thereafter, Movado acquired the rights to market the Ermeto, launching it in 1926 with the calibre 150MN movement. One of the most successful purse watch designs of all time, the Ermeto was produced in a wide variety of configurations, including movements that were manually wound, case wound or 8-day going, as well as models with calendar or alarm functions. Over the years, the Ermeto featured an array of case and dial designs, becoming one of Movado’s most recognized and iconic pieces. Among its admirers was Andy Warhol, a devoted Movado enthusiast who owned at least six different versions of the Ermeto spanning various periods. Although many examples survive, solid gold variants remain relatively rare, and examples made for Cartier are particularly rare. This particular model, created for Cartier circa 1955, features an unusual basketweave design – a pattern also found on another Cartier purse watch of similar date with a movement by Jaeger LeCoultre. The Ermeto shown here incorporates Movado’s ingenious ‘automatic’ case winding system, patented in 1928. When the sliding covers are opened, sprung levers and cams engage the winding train and crown, ‘automatically’ winding the watch. This clever piece of horological engineering ensures that each opening and closing of the case provides approximately four hours of running time, meaning the user only needs to open the case six times a day to power the watch for a full 24 hours.

View 1 of Lot 2230: A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955

a yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, circa 1955

Fine Jewelry and Watches Sale

Ballpoint pen of reeded design, in gold-finishe metal, decorated with three interlocking rings.

Ballpoint pen of reeded design, in gold-finishe metal, decorated with three interlocking rings. Signed Must de Cartier and numberedAccompanied by a ballpoint pen cartridge, blue inkAccompanied by Cartier certificate, istructions manual and fitted case stamped Cartier

View 1 of Lot 132:  'Must de Cartier' Ballpoint Pen 

'must de cartier' ballpoint pen

Dial: white Calibre: cal. 202P quartz, 25 jewels Movement number: 9115762 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: M001038 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier folding buckle Size: 36 mm diamenter Signed: case, movement and dial Box: no Papers: no Accessories: none Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped without a strap.

View 1 of Lot 130: Chronograph Pasha, Reference 1354 1 | A diamond-set yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with date | Circa 1990

chronograph pasha, reference 1354 1 | a diamond-set yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with date | circa 1990

Part III: Une demeure princière, La résidence de son Altesse Cheikh Hamad Bin Abdullah Al Thani, L'écrin Art Déco

rectangulaire, la base en quartz rose, la bordure à godrons tors, le corps cannelé, les anses carrées en onyx, signée sur la base Cartier, poinçons 14K et numéro de série 5898

rectangulaire, la base en quartz rose, la bordure à godrons tors, le corps cannelé, les anses carrées en onyx, signée sur la base Cartier, poinçons 14K et numéro de série 5898 7 x 4 x 6 cm, 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 2 3/8 in; poids brut. 160 gr.; overall weight . 5.14 oz.

View 1 of Lot 421: Boite à cigarettes en or et quartz, par Cartier New York, vers 1960

boite à cigarettes en or et quartz, par cartier new york, vers 1960

Cartier, Paris London retailed Tortue à Pattes An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered beneath dial 27’042, 5 Case: 18k gold tonneau-form case, the case top inlaid with blue enamel interspersed with gold square and dot motifs, gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. France Case number: inside case back hand stamped 17’082, outside case back engraved initials V.D. and hand stamped 17’082, 27’042 Closure: black unsigned fabric strap and 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle Size: 27 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier Tortue wristwatch, introduced by Louis Cartier in 1912, was a groundbreaking design that helped redefine the concept of the luxury wristwatch. Its distinctive tortoise-shaped case, known as the Tortue à Pattes (Turtle with Paws), was a charming and elegant departure from traditional round watches.

View 1 of Lot 2475: London retailed | Tortue à Pattes | An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926

london retailed | tortue à pattes | an unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, circa 1926

The pendant designed as a panther, entirely set with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a link chain necklace.

The pendant designed as a panther, entirely set with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a link chain necklace. Necklace, length approximately 460mmPendant and necklace, signed Cartier, numbered18 karat goldTotal gross weight approximately 36,57 grams

View 1 of Lot 289: Diamond 'Panthère' Necklace

diamond 'panthère' necklace

Designed as a panther with marquise-shaped diamond eyes, bail partially decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a fancy link chain necklace.

Designed as a panther with marquise-shaped diamond eyes, bail partially decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a fancy link chain necklace. Panthère pendant, signed Cartier, numberedNecklace, length approximately 505mmNecklace, unsignedTotal gross weight approximately 40,63 grams

View 1 of Lot 128: Diamond Pendant 'Panthère' 

diamond pendant 'panthère'

Cartier, Paris Baguette Coulissante An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 4’’’ Duo-Plan calibre 409/PB signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., grained and pearled decoration, lever escapement, 16 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, with U.S. import code EXU [B] Movement number: numbered 246’879 Case: 18k yellow gold polished rectangular case with stepped sides, satin-finished upper body with similarly finished panel sliding to reveal the dial, gold screw-set lug bars, case back with rear-set notched winding crown Case number: outside case back stamped 18k, hand stamped 90’572, 1’615, Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche and further rubbed lozenge-shaped stamp, underside of case top and central sliding panel hand stamped 90’572, panel additionally with Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche Closure: 18k yellow gold herringbone-pattern woven bracelet with contrasting pink gold deployant buckle, hand stamped 1’265 and with punch mark Size: 34 mm length x 15 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 175 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box Edmond Jaeger’s patent No. 157094, filed on 16 April 1931, describes an innovative watch design featuring a sliding cover mechanism. The mechanism is seamlessly integrated into the watch case, preserving the timepiece’s elegant appearance. Cartier’s adoption of this case design in its Baguette model underscores the firm’s commitment to innovative watchmaking. The design features a unique mechanism where the central panel of the case slides to reveal the dial. This ingenious feature adds both functionality and a sense of intrigue to the timepiece while protecting the dial when not in use. The placement of the winding crown to the case back ensures that the model’s clean lines remain uninterrupted. The sliding cover not only adds elegance but also serves a practical purpose, making the watch particularly suited to active lifestyles. Much like the Cartier Basculante or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, it offers a clever solution for dial protection and is ideal for sporting activities. Sliding the cover to reveal the dial provides a smooth and satisfying experience, combining practicality with thoughtful design. This harmonious integration of form and function exemplifies Cartier’s mastery in creating watches that are both innovative and a pleasure to use.

View 1 of Lot 2487: Baguette Coulissante | An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46

baguette coulissante | an unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, circa 1945-46

Cartier Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 8970 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 124776 AF Closure: unsigned red alligator strap and gold-plated buckle Size: 47 mm length x 22 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none In the pantheon of Cartier wristwatch designs, there are several categories that have a bearing on both collectability and price, with the majority of creations by Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier becoming the most popular and important. These include the Tank Louis, Santos, Crash and also the Baignoire. However, the Baignoire would join the hallowed ranks of models which would grace the drafting tables of both great men. Indeed, the original design which would eventually become the Baignoire was conceived by Louis Cartier himself and presented to Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess of Russia. Decades later, the one-off creation would be reinterpreted by Jean-Jacques Cartier, head of the London branch, into what was then known as the Oval and Maxi Oval. Still produced in small quantities, as were all watches made by the London workshop, these designs served as the launchpad for what would eventually become the Baignoire and Bagnoire Allongée. After Cartier left family ownership in the 1970s, the Baignoire name was finally given to the Oval-shaped wristwatch, with the Bagnoire Allongée first appearing in 1991 as an oversized offering calling back to the London Maxi Oval. The Allongée was never made in large quantities with the present example belongs to a subsequent run produced during the early 2000s, and it is imbued with the glorious history of both the brand and the men who made it what it was, Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier.

View 1 of Lot 2157: Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005

baignoire allongée, reference 2674 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 2005

Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 076, automatic, 25 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold and diamond-set, case back secured by eight screws Case number: 82805PX Closure: Cartier 18k yellow gold deployant clasp Size: 36mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: no Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped without a strap.

View 1 of Lot 244: Ballon Bleu | Reference 3002 | A Yellow Gold and Diamond-set Wristwatch 

ballon bleu | reference 3002 | a yellow gold and diamond-set wristwatch

Decorated with an oval - shaped Iolite. Size 54Signed Cartier 1993, numbered18 karat goldGross weight approximately 15,04 gramsAcocmpanied by Cartier certificate of authenticity issued in 1995

View 1 of Lot 239: 'Ellipse' Iolite Ring 

'ellipse' iolite ring

Dial: silvered Calibre: manual winding, jewelled Case: 18k yellow gold Case number: 912, 84970 Closure: 18k pink gold Cartier clasp Size: 32 mm diameter Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: none ﻿Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped without a strap. Please contact the department for the export of this property.

View 1 of Lot 237: Ronde Louis | A yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1970

ronde louis | a yellow gold wristwatch | circa 1970

Cartier, Paris New York retailed A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927 Dial: silvered dial with radial engine-turned decoration, signed Cartier, high sheen concentric circular engine-turned chapter ring with Roman numerals, outer grained minute ring, chapter and minute ring with filet sauté borders, Cartier Orientales blued steel hands Calibre: 16’’’ movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, 8 adjustments, flat hairspring Movement number: movement beneath dial with pearled finish and hand stamped 1’3106, 5 Case: 18k yellow gold polished case, the back with Art Deco geometric intertwined monogram, flat band, two-pronged pendant with triangular bow Case number: pendant numbered 036, 36, bow with French eagle’s head assay, internal rim of case body hand stamped 18'787, 13'106, bezel interior 18'787, inside back with French eagle’s head assay, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and hand stamped 13'106 Size: 40 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier presentation box The elegantly arranged dial of this watch draws inspiration from a pocket watch with a double chapter ring that Cartier introduced in the early 1910s. These original double chapter ring watches featured two distinct high-sheen rings: one at the outer edge of the dial displaying hours in the standard 12 hour format, and an additional inner 24-hour ring neatly positioned between the dial’s centre and the outer chapter. They employed an hour hand with a double taper – essentially two spade tips – that simultaneously indicated the time on both the 12-hour and 24-hour calibrated rings. In this watch the concept has been refined and advanced, with the hour and minute chapter rings entirely separated. The layout draws inspiration from so-called “regulator” dials, found on some clocks and watches, where a subsidiary dial displays the hours while the minutes are shown on the main dial’s outer edge. Here, the elongated minute hand stretches dramatically to the grained minute track at the edge of the dial, ensuring precision and clarity. Meanwhile, the bold Roman numerals for the hours are enhanced by the high sheen of the circular engine-turned chapter ring, set against the radial engine-turned body of the dial with its wave or moiré-like effect. Together, these elements highlight the exceptional skill and artistry of the dial maker, combining multiple decorative techniques to create a design of unparalleled refinement – one of the finest dial creations of the period.

View 1 of Lot 2483: New York retailed | A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927

new york retailed | a very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, circa 1927

Cartier, Paris Santos Droit A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel hands Calibre: later replacement 9¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre K818/1 movement signed Cartier Inc. and with U.S. import code VXN, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and 2 positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 809’322 Case: 18k yellow gold case, polished upper body, chamfered bezel secured by eight pink gold screws mounted from the underside, the lugs with gold screw-set bars, case secured by four gold screws to case sides, sapphire cabochon-set beaded crown, case top with French eagle’s head assay mark, case back interior with Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: lug numbered to underside 557 Closure: camel unsigned leather strap and early 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with ardillon buckle numbered 10’355, stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and twice faintly with EJ punch mark Size: 31 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none In 1904 Louis Cartier (1875-1942) supplied his pioneering aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932), with a wristwatch that could be used to consult the time while at the controls of one of his airships. Louis Cartier was passionately interested in watches and sought to develop a greater range of both pocket and wristwatches. He quickly recognised the potential of the wristwatch which hitherto had almost exclusively been regarded as a jewelry item for ladies. By attaching a watch to the wrist of one of the most famous and daring celebrities of his day, Louis Cartier was undoubtedly intending to demonstrate the practicality and allure of outwardly wearing a beautifully crafted timepiece. In 1914, Cartier released a new version of the Santos, named the Santos Droit, of which the present wristwatch is a very rare and early example. The Santos Droit has lugs which curve around the ends of the case rather than pinching inwards as seen on the earlier Santos-Dumont design. Also noticeable is the bezel which, on the Santos Droit, is chamfered in contrast to the rounded finish of the Santos-Dumont. The bezel is secured via screws mounted from the underside of the case top, these screws being pink gold and providing a subtle contrast to the yellow gold bezel.

View 1 of Lot 2484: Santos Droit | A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915

santos droit | a very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, circa 1915

Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 9P2 manual winding, 18 jewels Movement number: 94'109'090 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: N°235/300, A'113'488, 9413 Closure: 18k two-tone gold deployant clasp Size: 23 mm x 27 mm (width x length) Signed: dial, case and movement Accessories: Cartier presentation box Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

View 1 of Lot 147: Asymétrique, Reference 2488 | A limited edition yellow gold wristwatch | Circa 1996

asymétrique, reference 2488 | a limited edition yellow gold wristwatch | circa 1996

Cartier, Geneva New York retailed Tank L.C. A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, Circa 1975 Dial: plain gilded satin-finished dial signed Cartier, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 7.75’’’ ETA calibre 2512 movement signed Bueche-Girod, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, adjusted in 5 positions, flat hairspring Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, polished rounded brancards, slim crossbars, gold screw-set lug bars, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, satin-finished case back signed Cartier 18K, inside case back with Swiss Helvetia head assay, stamped 18k/0.750, signed Cartier, Swiss Made, Poinçon de Maître key 38 for Max Fuchs, Geneva Case number: numbered 110’963 Closure: 18k yellow gold bangle-form rigid bracelet with pink gold deployant buckle, fold-over lug clasps, buckle and bangle stamped 18k and signed Cartier Size: 27 mm length x 20 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 155 mm Accessories: none Over time, the Tank L.C. became one of Cartier’s most defining designs, ultimately dominating the Tank lineup in the last quarter of the 20th century. This particular interpretation elevates the model’s minimalist essence, embracing a monochromatic, sculptural aesthetic, with the richness of yellow gold permeating the entire design. All calibrations and numerals have been deliberately removed from the dial, ensuring a seamless visual flow from the bangle bracelet to the case and dial, allowing the warmth and opulence of yellow gold to take centre stage. The gold expanse is punctuated only by the blued steel hands and the sapphire cabochon-set winding crown, subtle yet iconic Cartier details that add depth and contrast without disrupting the watch’s fluid, unbroken geometry.

View 1 of Lot 2467: New York retailed | Tank L.C. | A rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, Circa 1975

new york retailed | tank l.c. | a rectangular yellow gold wristwatch with detachable gold bangle-form bracelet and integrated deployant buckle, circa 1975

Dial: white Calibre: manual winding, 18 jewels Case: platinum & diamond-set bezel, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 227, 6'214 Closure: gold deployant clasp Size: 29.7 mm x 14.9 mm (width x length) Signed: dial signed Cartier, case and movement signed Cartier Paris Accessories: Cartier service quote dated March 3, 2026

View 1 of Lot 145: A platinum and diamond-set Art deco bracelet watch with mesh bracelet | Circa 1915

a platinum and diamond-set art deco bracelet watch with mesh bracelet | circa 1915

De forme rectangulaire en jade, le fermoir et les charnières sertis de rubis calibés et cabochon réhaussés de diamants taille rose.

De forme rectangulaire en jade, le fermoir et les charnières sertis de rubis calibés et cabochon réhaussés de diamants taille rose. Dimensions 85 x 50 mm environSigné Cartier, numérotéVers 1930Poinçon français pour le platine (950°/00)Poids brut 75.20 g

View 1 of Lot 424: Porte-cartes jade, rubis et diamants 

porte-cartes jade, rubis et diamants

Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. K840 manual winding, 17 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 9'753 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier bracelet with locking clasp Size: 19 mm x 25 mm (width x length), bracelet circumference approximately 165 mm Signed: dial and case signed Cartier, movement signed LeCoultre Co. Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 12: Baignoire | A yellow gold chain bracelet watch | Circa 1975

baignoire | a yellow gold chain bracelet watch | circa 1975

Dial: white Calibre: manual, 18 jewels Movement number: Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 51373, 10209 Closure: 18k yellow gold folding buckle Size: 16 x 34 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Box: no Papers: no Accessories: none ﻿Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped without a strap. Please contact the department for the export of this property.

View 1 of Lot 122: A yellow gold Wristwatch 

a yellow gold wristwatch

Dial: burgundy with Khanjar Calibre: cal. 2671 X1 automatic, 17 jewels Movement number: 38'562 Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: 8'296'502'816 Closure: 18k yellow gold Cartier bracelet and deployant clasp Size: 29 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 175 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier travel pouch

View 1 of Lot 142: Santos Octagon 'Khanjar', Reference 2965 | A yellow gold wristwatch with burgundy dial, date and bracelet  | Circa 1990

santos octagon 'khanjar', reference 2965 | a yellow gold wristwatch with burgundy dial, date and bracelet | circa 1990

Dial: silvered Calibre: manual winding, 17 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 120'191 AF Closure: 18k pink gold Cartier deployant clasp Size: 22.5 x 38.9 mm (width x length) Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier presentation box Please note the leather strap derived from endangered species is for display purposes only and is not sold with the watch. The watch will be shipped with a Sotheby’s branded calf leather strap.

View 1 of Lot 11: Crash, Reference 2463 | A pink gold wristwatch | Circa 2000

crash, reference 2463 | a pink gold wristwatch | circa 2000

Cartier, Paris Diabolo A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1908 Dial: silvered engine-turned dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel moon hands Calibre: 10’’’ unsigned Swiss frosted gilded bar movement, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring, hand-setting activated via olivette beside winding crown Movement number: numbered beneath dial 20’095, 5 Case: 18k yellow gold case, translucent pink guilloché enamel bezel framed by an opaque white enamel band, platinum and rose-cut diamond-set inner bezel, ogival cabochon sapphire set crown, screw-set vis armurier lugs, the bars terminating to each side with a single collet-set sapphire cabochon, snap-on case back Case number: inner bezel with hand stamped number 15 to reverse, inside back hand stamped 15, with Edmond Jaeger punch mark and French eagle’s head control mark Closure: purple unsigned leather strap and later 18k yellow gold deployant clasp signed Cartier and with French eagle’s head control mark Size: 26 mm diameter Accessories: none The Cartier Diabolo wristwatch was produced with a variety of differently coloured guilloché enamel bezels, frequently with inner bezels set with diamonds. The use of cabochon-set stones for the winding crown would become a signature feature of Cartier wristwatches. When re-introduced circa 1990, this case design became known as the Diabolo due to the case’s resemblance to the top used in the game ‘Le Diablo Japonais’.

View 1 of Lot 2462: Diabolo | A yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, Circa 1908

diabolo | a yellow gold, platinum, enamel and diamond-set lady’s wristwatch, circa 1908

Cartier, James Schulz New York retailed Clip de Revers A yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by James Schulz, Circa 1945 Dial: matt white dial signed Cartier, raised Arabic and baton hour indexes, gilded baton hands Calibre: 5½’’’ Swiss movement signed J. Schulz, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, U.S. customs import code JXZ Case: 14k yellow gold polished rectangular case, chamfered bezel, integrated gold clip hinge, outside case back engraved A.B.H., rear of clip and inside case back signed JSch for J. Schulz and stamped 14k Case number: underside of clip hand stamped 5’228, inside case back numbered 470’532 Size: 23 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: none This sophisticated and stylish clip watch is a fine example of the collaboration between Cartier and the renowned New York watchmaker James Schulz. Measuring 20 mm in width, it was designed to be clipped onto a bag, purse, or directly onto clothing as a brooch, making it a versatile accessory. Produced by Schulz for Cartier, this watch reflects the type of thoughtfully designed and highly functional items that appealed to Cartier’s discerning clientele as elegant and practical gifts. James Schulz, a highly regarded independent watchmaker, began his career at Tiffany & Co. before collaborating with Cartier during the mid-20th century. Known for his exceptional craftsmanship, Schulz created bespoke timepieces that combined technical innovation with refined aesthetics. Among his most celebrated works is an ultra-complicated wristwatch from the late 1920s, featuring a movement supplied by Victorin Piguet and incorporating a single-button chronograph, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater.

View 1 of Lot 2231: New York retailed | Clip de Revers | A yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by James Schulz, Circa 1945

new york retailed | clip de revers | a yellow gold lapel clip watch with movement by james schulz, circa 1945

Cartier Couteau A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925 Dial: gilt engine-turned dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: cal. 17’’’, frosted gilt lever movement signed Cartier, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring Case: 18k yellow gold case, engine-turned front and back cover with white champlevé enamel border, front cover with polished chapter ring with white champlevé enamel Arabic numerals and inner minute ring, polished central back cover with white champlevé enamel initials BB Case number: snap on back cover numbered 2‘679 and 2’250, front cover numbered 2’679, inside front cover, back cover and pendant stamped with French owl import hallmarks, bow stamped with maker’s hallmark Size: 47 mm diameter Accessories: none In the 20th century, Cartier’s vintage pocket watches were best known for being ultra thin. Whether simple or highly complications, Cartier always pushed the limits to make them as thin as possible. Cartier named this model “Couteau” (French for “knife”) because the case is under 4 mm thick. Made around the 1930s, the present watch uses an ultra-thin movement just under 2 mm, supplied from the European Watch Co. (EWC). Founded in the 1920s, as a joint venture company between Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, EWC exclusively supplied Cartier with high-quality LeCoultre movements. The movement is gilt and inlay at least 16 jewels to ensure the movement can be smoothly operated. To protect the fragile balance wheel, three steel screws are evenly placed surrounding it for extra support. The dial has a gilt background with engine-turned various patterns, giving the dial a richly layered sense under light. The half-hunting case features a hinged front cover and snap on back cover, fully engine-turned, and decorated with simple white enamel lines, showcasing Cartier’s excellent sense of balance in design. Both the hour numerals on the front cover and the original owner’s initials on the back are using champlevé enamel. Couteau series watches with a half-hunting case are very rare in the market today. Also, there is little room for extra decoration due to such thin cases. This makes a Couteau pocket watch featuring both champlevé enamel and engine-turned engraving even more rare and valuable.

View 1 of Lot 2474: Couteau | A fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, Circa 1925

couteau | a fine and unusual yellow gold and enamel ultra thin half hunting case keyless lever dress watch, with engine-turned dial, circa 1925

l’une en forme de kovsh, l’autre de forme ovoïde, toutes deux ornées de cabochons de pierre de lune

l’une en forme de kovsh, l’autre de forme ovoïde, toutes deux ornées de cabochons de pierre de lune Kovsh : Haut. 5 cm, larg. 17 cm, prof. 9,5 cm ; Height 2 in., width 6 2/3 in., depth 3 3/4 in. Bol : Haut. 6 cm, larg. 15 cm, prof. 10,5 cm ; Height 2 1/3 in., width 5 7/8 in., depth 4 in.

View 1 of Lot 357: Paire de coupes en rhodochrosite et pierres de lune, vendues par Cartier, vers 1930

paire de coupes en rhodochrosite et pierres de lune, vendues par cartier, vers 1930

A pair of 'Trinity' cufflinks of baton design with three colored gold rope twist terminals and a pair of 'Double C de Cartier' cufflinks with interlocking Cs terminals set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

A pair of 'Trinity' cufflinks of baton design with three colored gold rope twist terminals and a pair of 'Double C de Cartier' cufflinks with interlocking Cs terminals set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Signed Cartier, numberedItalian maker's marks and assay marks for 18 carat gold1990Total gross weight approximately 22,21 gramsAccompanied by fitted cases stamped Cartier

View 1 of Lot 123: Two Pairs of Cufflinks 

two pairs of cufflinks

Each tie pin modeled as a panther pavè set with brilliant-cut diamonds and emerald eyes.

Each tie pin modeled as a panther pavè set with brilliant-cut diamonds and emerald eyes. Each signed Cartier and numberedFrench maker's marks and assay marks18 karat gold and platinum1990Total gross weight approximately 10,57 gramsEach tie pin accompanied by Cartier certificate of authentication dated 20th of June 1990

View 1 of Lot 238: Two 'Panthère' diamond Tie Pins 

two 'panthère' diamond tie pins

Cartier, Paris A platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, Circa 1913 Dial: silver engine-turned dial signed Cartier, the edge with barleycorn decoration, each hour section of lobed design, central stylised flower-form motif, black Arabic numerals, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10’’’ unsigned frosted gilded bar movement, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, Breguet hairspring Movement number: numbered beneath dial 6’768, 5 Case: platinum case, the front and back of the scalloped case sides, bow and inverted triangular pendant all set with rose-cut diamonds, platinum case back with rounded edges and centred by a rose-cut diamond surrounded by small spikes of rose-cut diamonds, beaded diamond-set crown Case number: bezel interior numbered 6’768, inside case back numbered 6’768, • 637 • Closure: later inverted 18k white gold triangular-form brooch set with 21 round-cut diamonds (approx. 1 to 1.2 carats) Size: 29 mm diameter Accessories: none Platinum’s introduction into Cartier’s repertoire began modestly in the mid-19th century, with its use in small accessories such as shirt buttons and cufflinks. These early experiments reflected the limited availability and processing difficulties of the time. By the end of the 1800s, however, Wilhelm Carl Heraeus’s invention of a new melting process unlocked platinum’s potential, enabling it to become a cornerstone of Cartier’s designs. The firm embraced this innovation wholeheartedly, creating exquisite pieces that met the demands of an elite clientele seeking novelty and sophistication.

View 1 of Lot 2469: A platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, Circa 1913

a platinum and diamond-set openface pendant watch, circa 1913

Cartier, Paris A platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, Circa 1925 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier France with vertical engine-turning, outer minute track with triangular-form hour markers, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10’’’ LeCoultre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 12’790, 1 Case: rock crystal case with platinum mounts Case number: numbered 3’946 to exterior and 51 to inside edge, back of chapter ring’s XII partially stamped 2 5, bezel interior stamped 22’451 Size: 44 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier presentation box The art of carving and shaping rock crystal, a transparent and colourless form of quartz, dates back to antiquity. Exquisite objects were made in crystal by the Romans, but the working of rock crystal reached an unparalleled level of sophistication and refinement in Egypt during the Fatimid period (969-1171). During this era, artisans in Cairo produced extraordinary rock crystal vessels for their rulers, demonstrating remarkable skill and artistry.

View 1 of Lot 2470: A platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, Circa 1925

a platinum and rock crystal mounted openface keyless lever watch, circa 1925

Each earring set with clusters of amethyst and turquoise beads, accented by brilliant-cut diamonds.

Each earring set with clusters of amethyst and turquoise beads, accented by brilliant-cut diamonds. Signed Cartier and numberedFrench maker's mark and assay marks18 karat gold2005Gross weight approximately 22,10 gramsAccompanied by a Cartier certificate of authenticity dated the 15th of August 2005

View 1 of Lot 241: Pair of Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond Earrings 'Les Délices de Goa' 

pair of amethyst, turquoise and diamond earrings 'les délices de goa'

Cartier, London Baignoire An oval yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1967-68 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel pointed baton hands Calibre: 4½’’’ tonneau-form movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre Co., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered 1’900’271 Case: 18k yellow gold oval case with rounded sides, chamfered inner bezel, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by four screws to case sides, concealed gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back numbered • 10608 • and with [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark, London hallmarks and date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68 Case number: outside case back hand stamped • 10608 • and 8’269 Closure: red unsigned satin strap and 18k yellow gold deployant clasp with D-shaped buckle, London hallmarks with date letter ‘m’ for 1967-68 and [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped numbering 1’408 Size: 24 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: none The Baignoire is one of Cartier’s most enduring and recognisable wristwatch designs, celebrated for its elegant oval silhouette and refined proportions. Introduced as early as the 1910s, the model embodies the Maison’s ability to transform simple geometric forms into timeless and sophisticated creations.

View 1 of Lot 2478: Baignoire | An oval yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1967-68

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