Important Watches

PROPERTY OF A LADY Jaeger-LeCoultre Reference 280.3.70 A white gold reversible bracelet watch with rotating diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, Circa 2000 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 101 mechanical, 15 jewels Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 27 and 1'898'078 Closure: 18k white gold Jaeger-LeCoultre and clasp Size: 27 mm length x 11 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 160 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none Jaeger-LeCoultre has long been renowned for creating some of the most complex and finely crafted timepieces in the industry, earning a prestigious reputation as the "watchmaker's watchmaker." With a commitment to blending artistry and precision, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to set the standard for horological excellence. The present lot exemplifies the brand's dedication to luxury and sophistication. This exquisite reversible bracelet watch is fashioned in white gold and adorned with dazzling diamonds, vibrant emeralds, rubies and sapphires. What brings the present watch to another level is its calibre. JLC's Calibre 101 is a remarkable testament to the brand's pioneering spirit and watchmaking expertise. Introduced in 1929, this ultra-thin movement measures just 1.98 mm in height, making it one of the smallest mechanical movements ever created. Celebrated for its intricate craftsmanship, the Calibre 101 is not only known for its precision and reliability but also for the elegance it brings to women's watches.

View 1 of Lot 2219: Reference 280.3.70 | A white gold reversible bracelet watch with rotating diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, Circa 2000

reference 280.3.70 | a white gold reversible bracelet watch with rotating diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, circa 2000

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?waysToBuy=buyNow&amp;creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> box.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Florale (Reference 265.8.08). A stainless steel diamond set quartz wristwatch.

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> box and card.

Master Ultra Thin Perpetual (Reference Q1302501). A 39mm rose gold diamond set automatic wristwatch with day, date, month, yeah, moon phase, and perpetual calendar. 2019

Includes presentation non-<a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?waysToBuy=buyNow&amp;creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> box.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Meteorite (Reference Q1558421). A 39mm stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, day, month, and moon phase.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto Classique (Reference Q2562407). A 37.4mm rose gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch.

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?waysToBuy=buyNow&amp;creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> papers and presentation non-Jaeger-LeCoultre box.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar (Reference Q1558421). A 39mm stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, day, month, and moon phase. 2017

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?waysToBuy=buyNow&amp;creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> box and card.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control (Reference Q4138480). A 40mm stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, day, month, chronograph, and moon phase. 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin (Reference Q1372520). A 39mm rose gold automatic wristwatch with date and power reserve.

Includes <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/luxury/watches/watch?waysToBuy=buyNow&amp;creators=Jaeger-LeCoultre" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> card and presentation non-Jaeger-LeCoultre box.

Master Ultra Thin (Reference Q1362510). A 39mm rose gold automatic wristwatch with date and moon phase. 2021

Cadran: argenté/noirCalibre: cal. JLC 878 remontage manuel, 35 rubisBoîtier: or rose 18K (750°/00), boitier réversibleNuméro de boîtier: 2’556’879Fermoir: bracelet en alligator et double boucle déployante en or rose 18K (750°/00) Jaeger-LeCoultreDimensions: 30x40 mmSigné: boîtier, cadran et mouvementEcrin: nonPapiers: nonAccessoires: aucun&nbsp;Dial:&nbsp;silvered/blackCalibre:&nbsp;cal. JLC 878 manual winding, 35 jewelsCase: 18k pink gold, reversible case backCase number:&nbsp;2’556'879Closure:&nbsp;Jaeger-LeCoultre alligator strap and 18k pink gold double folding claspSize:&nbsp;30x40 mmSigned:&nbsp;case, dial and movementBox:&nbsp;noPapers:&nbsp;noAccessories:&nbsp;none Poids brut 118.6 g |Gross weight&nbsp;118.6 g Discover more : <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-standout-examples-from-the-sothebys-archive?locale=en" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso: Standout Examples from the Sotheby's Archive</a>

Grande Reverso GMT Duoface, référence 240.2.18 | Pink gold dual time zone wristwatch with date, power reserve and day/night indicator | Circa 2008

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual (Reference Q1612520). A 40mm rose gold manual wind wristwatch with day, date, month, year, moon phase, power reserve, day/night indicator, and perpetual calendar.

Reverso (Reference Q3848420). A 47mm stainless steel manual wind wristwatch with dual time. 2019

Reverso Classic Duetto (Reference Q2578480). A 40mm stainless steel diamond-set automatic wristwatch. 2020

Reverso (Reference Q3848420). A 42.9mm stainless steel manual wind wristwatch with dual time.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Special Edition (Reference 174.2.37.S). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface (Reference Q3988482). A 47mm stainless steel manual wind wristwatch with day/night indicator. 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (Reference Q136256C). A 39mm rose gold automatic wristwatch with date and moon phase.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous is a distinguished timepiece meticulously crafted in pink gold. Its diamond-set bezel exudes luxury and sophistication. The rich red celestial dial features an intricate night sky design, adding a unique and captivating element.&nbsp;

Jaeger-Lecoultre Rendez-Vous (Reference Q3482560). A pink gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch with celestial dial. Circa 2015

Cartier, London Tank Lugless A very rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with hooded lugs and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1970-71 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 9’’’ calibre P838 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring Movement number: 1'862'534 Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case, rounded bezel, hooded lugs with spring bars, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case back secured by screws between hooded lugs Case number: outside case back numbered 9'034, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘p’ for 1970-71, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'034 Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘p’ for 1970-71, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 9'034 Size: 29 mm length x 23 width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch An unusual London Tank model, this design blends elements of both the Tank Normale and J.J.C. Tank – combining the broad crossbars of the former with the rounded sides of the latter. While its overall proportions remain similar to standard Normale and J.J.C. models, the case sides are slightly slimmer, and the crossbars have been repositioned to the very ends of the case. This adjustment eliminates the traditional brancard overhang and, together with the narrower case profile, expands the dial’s surface area, resulting in a bolder and more distinctive aesthetic. The concealment of the lugs aligns with a broader design trend at Cartier London during this era, where many models featured concealed or hooded lugs to create bold case shapes with pure geometric forms – whether octagonal, decagonal, rectangular, or circular. This design approach enhanced the impression of unbroken case geometry, making the watches appear to float on their leather straps. Further emphasising the London influence, the present watch features a cream dial with bold, stretched Roman numerals, a script signature, and the absence of a minute track – all hallmarks of the design language favoured by Cartier London in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

View 1 of Lot 2383: Tank Lugless | A very rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with hooded lugs and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1970-71 

tank lugless | a very rare yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with hooded lugs and original gold deployant buckle, circa 1970-71

Cartier, Paris An unusual yellow gold purse watch with a sliding cover and articulated, sprung inner case, Circa 1955 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, black radial Roman numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute ring, blued steel pointed baton hands Calibre: 5¾’’’ circular movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance with poising screws, index regulator with integrated balance protective shield, flat hairspring Movement number: backplate with US import code VXN and numbered 1'116'994 Case: 18k gold rectangular case with basketweave patterning throughout, the lid sliding to reveal inner polished gold hinged and sprung square case Case number: snap on movement back numbered 118'778, edge of inner case framework with French eagle’s head assay, underside of sliding cover with eagle’s head assay, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and numbered 68'943 Size: 34 mm length x 21 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This gold purse watch features a basketweave engine-turned decoration. The front cover slides open with a pleasing action, releasing the inner case, which is hinged and springs upwards to a fixed, angled position. This mechanism positions the watch perfectly for viewing when placed on a desk or bedside. The design of this purse watch draws inspiration from a style first popularised during the late 1920s and 1930s, a golden era for watch design. During that time, wristwatches led the charge in creativity, yet purse watches emerged as a striking and sophisticated alternative. These timepieces offered an endless array of inventive ways to reveal the time, featuring ingeniously designed mechanisms such as sliding or folding covers, hinged shutters, rotating grills, and other cleverly conceived actions. More than mere practical accessories, purse watches were a delight to use, a reflection of individuality, and a refined conversation piece.

View 1 of Lot 2148: An unusual yellow gold purse watch with a sliding cover and articulated, sprung inner case, Circa 1955 

an unusual yellow gold purse watch with a sliding cover and articulated, sprung inner case, circa 1955

Cartier, London Tank Normale A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1963-64 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9½’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre K838 movement signed Cartier Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and three positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 1'449'973 Case: 18k yellow gold case, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back secured by 4 screws to case sides, multi-faceted crown with faceted sapphire setting Case number: outside case back with presentation engraving ‘To One Francis from Another - Happy Birthday - 19.3.67’, inside case top etched London Subsidiary Stock numbered • 9642 •, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘h’ for 1963-64, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers • 9642 • Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold Cartier deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘h’ for 1963-64, [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped numbers 0‘680 Size: 30.5 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This watch has a London Reference No. 6732.

View 1 of Lot 2382: Tank Normale | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1963-64 

tank normale | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1963-64

Cartier, London Baignoire A yellow gold oval lady’s bracelet watch, Circa 1966-67 Dial: cream dial, signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 5¾’’’ tonneau-form movement, calibre 840, signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring Movement number: 1'808'865 Case: 18k yellow gold, oval case with rounded sides, soft chamfered inner bezel, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by 4 screws to case sides Case number: interior of case top and case back with hand stamped number • 10257 •, outside case back with hand stamped numbers • 10257 •, 7'736, inside case back with [JC] Jacques Cartier punch mark, London hallmarks and date letter ‘l' for 1966-67 Closure: 18k yellow gold detachable flexible woven gold wirework bracelet with London hallmarks and date letter ‘k’ for 1965-66, clasp with maker’s mark RMK Size: 24.5 mm length x 19 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 135 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch At Cartier Paris, this design was referred to as the ‘Baignoire’ (bathtub) due to the shape of its case which resembles a roll top bath - in England it was called the ‘Oval’. Launched in 1956, the Baignoire is an iconic Cartier wristwatch design. Famous owners of the Baignoire have included the actor James Garner, the Beatles’ manager Brian Epstein, and the singer Dame Shirley Bassey. In this London example of the model, the curvaceous form of the case is enhanced by the steep, yet soft inward chamfer of the bezel as it reaches towards the dial. Over the years the model has been predominantly produced with a leather strap, but it has also been available as a bracelet watch in a variety of different styles. This example has a flexible bangle-form bracelet composed of closely woven gold wirework.

View 1 of Lot 2427: Baignoire | A yellow gold oval lady’s bracelet watch, Circa 1966-67

baignoire | a yellow gold oval lady’s bracelet watch, circa 1966-67

Cartier, London Asymmetric An extremely rare and unusual yellow gold and enamel asymmetrical rear-wound wristwatch, Circa 1973-74 Dial: white dial signed Cartier, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 5½’’’ circular rear-wound movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, grained decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annual balance, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber Movement number: main plate numbered 2'008'447 Case: 18k yellow gold asymmetrically arranged lozenge-form case, translucent blue guilloché enamel bezel with dot and radial Roman numerals with exaggerated stretched XII and VI indexes, blue enamel band to case side, polished case back with central movement roundel, secured by two screws, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ’S’ for 1973-74 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, case top interior with 18k gold hallmarks and [JC] punch mark Case number: signature script engraved Cartier London and numbered 9'613 Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, script engraved Cartier London to exterior of inner blade, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ’S’ for 1973-74 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, numbered 9'613 Size: 20 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This highly unusual Cartier London model, dating to 1973–74, was created during the final phase of Cartier Bond Street’s most experimental period – generally considered to span from 1967 to 1974. Exceptionally rare, our research has identified only five Cartier London enamel watches from this era, including a late example dated 1976, produced at the very end of the Wright & Davies workshop period. Despite the often avant-garde nature of the watches produced during these years, design precedents can almost always be traced back to heritage models created by Cartier Paris. Jean-Jacques Cartier remained determined to imbue his designs with a strong sense of Cartier’s DNA. This is certainly true of the present watch: not only does it adopt an asymmetric form first explored during the Art Deco era, it also draws on the gold and enamel-inlaid bezels found on decorative Cartier watches from the early twentieth century. Another characteristic of Cartier London during this period was their playful approach to shape and contrast. Here, they juxtapose the lozenge-shaped asymmetrical case with a hexagonal dial—an interplay of forms that disrupts convention while maintaining Cartier’s signature elegance. The exaggerated elongation of the Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock further reinforces this approach, a graphic flourish that adds dynamism and energy to the design. Viewed from the side, the enamel theme continues with a slim blue enamel band running along the case sides, seamlessly integrating with the overall aesthetic. The result is a watch that is both rooted in Cartier’s past and radically forward-thinking. It distils elements from the first, second, and third quarters of the 20th century, combining them into a highly original, avant-garde interpretation of Cartier’s design DNA.

View 1 of Lot 2408: Asymmetric | An extremely rare and unusual yellow gold and enamel asymmetrical rear-wound wristwatch, Circa 1973-74

asymmetric | an extremely rare and unusual yellow gold and enamel asymmetrical rear-wound wristwatch, circa 1973-74

Cartier, London Mini Tank J.J.C. A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue numerals and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched blue radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 5¾’’’ tonneau-form calibre K821 signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber Movement number: main plate numbered 2'001'522 Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case with polished finish, rounded brancards, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by 4 screws to case sides, gold screw-set lug bars, gold case back with vertical satin finish, inside case back with London 18k gold hallmarks, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70 Case number: hand stamped 9'060 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Closure: blue unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle with UK hallmarks and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped twice 9'060 Size: 28 mm length x 20.5 mm width Accessories: none The cream dial of the present watch, with its bold stretched Roman numerals and lack of minute track, is typical of the style often favoured by Cartier London during this period. This example is especially notable for the use of a dark blue rather than black paint for the numerals. Cartier London offered or customised dials with the option of red or blue numerals in place of black.

View 1 of Lot 2384: Mini Tank J.J.C. | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue numerals and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70

mini tank j.j.c. | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with blue numerals and original gold deployant buckle, circa 1969-70

Cartier, London Ronde An extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with Arabic 13-24 hour numerals and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70 Dial: white dial signed Cartier, black stylised Arabic numerals in 24-hour format, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 9¼’’’ calibre P838 circular movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Trior shock absorber Movement number: backplate numbered 1'862'068 Case: 18k yellow gold circular case, slim curved bezel, concealed t-bar style Vendôme lugs, polished case back, case back secured by two screws to case sides above 12 o’clock and beneath 6 o’clock, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown Case number: case back interior with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 8'726 Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and numbered 8726 Size: 30 mm diameter Accessories: none Our research indicates that, to date, only one example made by the Cartier London workshop with a 13–24-hour calibration is known, highlighting the extraordinary rarity of this design. This may suggest that the dial configuration was a special request. The watch’s calibrations for the afternoon and evening hours are a deliberate nod to the glamorous nightlife of 1960s London, when the city’s wealthy socialites, artists, and celebrities dominated the party scene. Exclusive soirées at venues like Annabel’s in Mayfair or private townhouse gatherings offered a decadent backdrop where time truly began after midday. This unique design catered perfectly to night owls and trendsetters, blending style and function in a way that made the watch a true conversation starter. It embodies the spirit of the Swinging Sixties, when London stood at the forefront of cultural and social innovation, and its elite partied well into the night. The Ronde has an elegant simplicity with its perfectly circular case. Concealed Vendôme-style T-bar lugs, a Cartier innovation patented in 1934, allowed the watch case to “float” on its strap, ensuring the dial remained the visual centrepiece. These lugs were also used in other Cartier London creations of the era, cleverly enhancing the prominence of the case while maintaining the watch’s overall balance.

View 1 of Lot 2356: Ronde | An extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with Arabic 13-24 hour numerals and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70 

ronde | an extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with arabic 13-24 hour numerals and original gold deployant buckle, circa 1969-70

Cartier, London Blue Enamel Square A very rare yellow gold square wristwatch with blue enamel bezel, Circa 1976-77 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9½’’’ circular calibre P838 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring Movement number: 2'197'711 Case: 18k yellow gold square case, the blue guilloché enamel bezel with raised Roman numerals for hours and disc markers for half hours, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, short broad rounded lugs, case back secured by four screws to case sides between lugs, engraved initials to outside case back Case number: London Reference numbered 1'829, inside case back with London hallmarks, date letter ‘B’ for 1976-77 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle with London hallmarks, date letter ‘B’ for 1976-77 and numbered 1'829 Size: 30.5 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch This is one of the last wristwatches to have been made in the Wright & Davies workshop and may well have been a special order. Inspired by heritage Cartier models, the watch's design pays homage to the early 1920s. Archival images reveal early Cartier wristwatches with square cases and enamel-decorated bezels, featuring similarly calibrated hour and half-hour markers (see comparative references below). The bezel has a channel carved around the dial, intricately chased and engraved with repeating striations, punctuated by gold hour and half-hour markers. Raised Roman numerals and disc shaped indexes sit flush with the bezel’s inner and outer edges. Translucent blue enamel fills the recessed areas surrounding the numerals, creating a sleek, smooth surface while adding depth and texture as light can be seen playing across the striated details beneath

View 1 of Lot 2287: Blue Enamel Square | A very rare yellow gold square wristwatch with blue enamel bezel, Circa 1976-77 

blue enamel square | a very rare yellow gold square wristwatch with blue enamel bezel, circa 1976-77

Cartier, London Half Tank A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1965-66 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 7’’’ oval movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif f lector shock absorber Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case smooth brancards with rounded ends, thin crossbars, back secured by 4 screws to case sides, gold screw-set bar lugs, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, Case number: outside case back hand stamped 7'348, • 9989 •, bezel interior scratch numbered • 9989 •, inside case back London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘k’ for 1965-66 and [JC] Jean Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped • 9989 • Closure: blue unsigned alligator strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, hallmarked London, date letter ’k' for 1965 66 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, numbered 0'826 Size: 23.5 mm length x 17.5 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch Known as the Half Tank, this model was roughly 25% smaller than the Tank J.J.C. and is a hybrid that sits somewhere between the Normale and the J.J.C. The Half Tank has the Normale’s broad brancards with flat tops and curved ends and these are combined with the slimmer crossbars of the J.J.C. In 1922, Cartier London established the English Art Works (EAW), followed by the Wright & Davies workshop in 1939, dedicated to producing watch cases for Cartier. Initially, they focused on ladies’ watches, but from 1950 began making Paris models in their London workshop, likely with Cartier Paris’ support - the latter must have assisted with the supply of Jaeger LeCoultre/EWC movements and the maquettes for producing the iconic Parisian watch models. Cartier London’s independent watch production was almost certainly driven in response to the high taxes and import duties introduced after the Second World War, making local production more cost-effective. Jean-Jacques Cartier, who led the London branch from 1945 to 1974, focused on innovation and exceptional craftsmanship, producing some of Cartier’s most creative and radical wristwatch designs. London’s own designs were independent of Cartier Paris, yet remained true to the brand’s aesthetic, with the Cartier run Wright & Davies workshop handling much of their production. The watches were handmade in small numbers, ensuring that no two pieces were exactly alike. This focus on quality and exclusivity, combined with Jean-Jacques’ leadership, allowed the London branch to maintain its reputation for high-end, original design while carving out its own distinct identity. It is these qualities that have made the London models so desirable and collectible today.

View 1 of Lot 2381: Half Tank | A yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1965-66 

half tank | a yellow gold rectangular wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1965-66

Cartier, London Maxi Ronde A large and extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with concealed lugs, Circa 1971-72 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black stretched radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands Calibre: calibre P838 circular movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Trior shock absorber Movement number: backplate numbered 1'682'635 Case: 18k yellow gold circular case, slim rounded bezel, concealed t-bar style Vendôme lugs, polished case back, case back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon-set crown Case number: case back numbered beneath lugs 1'354, case back interior with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘q’ for 1971-72 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Closure: blue unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, stamped 750, BC and signed Cartier 18k Size: 34.5 mm diameter Accessories: none An exceptionally rare model, only two examples of the gentleman’s Maxi Ronde in yellow gold are currently known, together with a further two in white gold. Its perfectly circular case with slim bezel and enlarged dial amplify its presence, while the elongated Roman numerals stretching toward the edge further enhance the sense of expansion. Rather than exploring distortion or abstraction, the Maxi Ronde pushes the limits of balance and proportion, proving that radical design can also lie in clarity and refinement. This purity of form is further emphasised by its Vendôme-style T-bar lugs, affixed to the case back, allowing the unbroken circular shape to remain visually uninterrupted. Despite its restraint, the Maxi Ronde is undeniably bold. Larger than most dress watches of the era, its slender bezel maximises the dial’s prominence, making it feel even more expansive on the wrist. The subtle interplay of proportion and detail creates a watch that is at once understated yet striking, a harmonious counterbalance to the more experimental creations of Cartier London during this highly creative period.

View 1 of Lot 2357: Maxi Ronde | A large and extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with concealed lugs, Circa 1971-72 

maxi ronde | a large and extremely rare yellow gold circular wristwatch with concealed lugs, circa 1971-72

Cartier, London Tank Cintrée A rare yellow gold curved rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1972-73 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, blued steel épée hands Calibre: 7’’’ oval movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered to backplate 1'029'358 Case: 18k yellow gold curved rectangular case, polished tops to the brancards, satin finished case sides and crossbars, lugs with spring bars, back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire set crown Case number: outside case back stamped 1'373, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and 18k gold deployant buckle, engraved Cartier 18k, stamped BC and with further lozenge cartouche Size: 42 mm length x 20.5 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier Tank Cintrée, first introduced in 1921, is one of the most elegant and enduring watch designs of the 20th century. Defined by its elongated, slim rectangular case that gracefully curves to follow the natural contour of the wrist, the Cintrée was a triumph of both ergonomics and aesthetics. Unlike many rectangular watches, which rely on hinges or friction fittings, the Cintrée’s case back is securely pressed into the upper case and held by small screws, creating a seamless integration that ensures a sleek and refined profile. Over the decades, the model has remained a rare and highly sought-after timepiece, typically available only by special order. During the late 1960s, a time of cultural and artistic transformation, Cartier London introduced its own interpretation of the Tank Cintrée, setting it apart from the Paris version with several distinctive design modifications. This period – shaped by the energy of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Mary Quant’s revolutionary fashion movement – saw London become a global centre for creativity and reinvention. Cartier London fully embraced this spirit, breaking from tradition to produce some of the most unconventional and daring wristwatches in its history. The London Tank Cintrée reflected this shift with its exaggerated curvature, creating a sculptural form that closely hugged the wrist. Its creamy white dial, stripped of a traditional minute track, emphasised its minimalist yet striking aesthetic. Meanwhile, the Roman numerals – stretched, thick, and bold – dominated the dial space, amplifying its avant-garde character. These elements, combined with the pronounced curve of the case, transformed the Cintrée into a powerful statement piece, bridging the gap between classic elegance and modern innovation – features that were also found in the London Maxi Oval. The London Tank Cintrée was produced in different sizes, From 1945 to 1974, Cartier London was led by Jean-Jacques Cartier, son of Jacques Cartier. Having apprenticed in Paris, Jean Jacques brought a deep passion for design and craftsmanship, steering the London workshop toward some of Cartier’s most radical and inventive timepieces. His tenure coincided with the cultural revolution of the Swinging Sixties, inspiring a new wave of independent creativity within Cartier London. Watches such as the Crash, Maxi Oval, and Pebble were developed exclusively in London during this era, each retaining the essence of the Cartier DNA while boldly reinterpreting it for a new era. Jean-Jacques worked closely with Rupert Emmerson, Cartier London’s chief designer, to bring these extraordinary timepieces to life. Once designs were finalized, each watch was meticulously handcrafted at the Wright & Davies workshop on Rosebery Avenue, under the leadership of Albert ‘Sam’ Mayo. Producing the case of a London Cintrée required over 35 hours of craftsmanship, with additional components, such as leather straps and deployant buckles, made in-house. The final assembly took place at Cartier’s Bond Street workshop under Eric Denton’s supervision. This painstaking process ensured that each watch was a masterpiece of exclusivity and exceptional quality, often requiring weeks or even months to complete. Predominantly produced between 1966 and 1974, Cartier London wristwatches from this era remain among the rarest and most extraordinary ever made. As the only Cartier branch still owned by a family member, Jean-Jacques Cartier’s London workshop carved out a distinctive identity, balancing bold creativity with impeccable craftsmanship. His visionary approach secured Cartier London’s place in the brand’s illustrious history, producing watches that continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.

View 1 of Lot 2419: Tank Cintrée | A rare yellow gold curved rectangular wristwatch, Circa 1972-73

tank cintrée | a rare yellow gold curved rectangular wristwatch, circa 1972-73

Cartier, Paris Tonneau, Émail ‘Lapis Lazuli’ An yellow gold tonneau form wristwatch with enamel simulating ‘lapis lazuli’ brancards, Circa 1968 Dial: matt white dial signed Cartier Paris, black Roman numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9¼’’’ circular cal. P838 Jaeger LeCoultre movement signed Cartier, Paris, damascened Côte de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, adjusted to 3 positions Movement number: 1'862'495 Case: 18k yellow gold tonneau-form case, enamel simulating ‘lapis lazuli’ brancards, octagonal lapis lazuli-set crown, flat polished bezel, flat case back with vertical satin finish, secured by four screws Case number: inside back stamped 52'108, outside case back with EJ punch mark, French eagle’s head control mark and hand stamped Paris Reference numbered 023'407, 52'108 Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow and pink gold deployant clasp, both sections of the clasp with punch mark and French eagle’s head control mark, hand stamped numbers 20'758 to primary side and 58 to secondary Size: 30 mm length x 27 mm width Accessories: none Cartier have used enamels and hard stones to enhance the decoration of their watch cases since the early 20th century. During the 1960s and throughout the 1970s, the use of hard stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger’s eye and onyx to create dials and case/ bracelet enhancements became highly fashionable. At the same time, enamels were also used to provide decorative highlights, sometimes themselves simulating the effect of prized hard stones. Here Cartier have introduced textured blue enamel in imitation of lapis lazuli to form rounded, polished brancard highlights to the sides of the watch’s case, the crown itself is mounted with a faceted section of lapis lazuli stone. During this period, Cartier introduced similar decorative schemes to a variety of other models. Cartier introduced their first tonneau-form wristwatch in 1906. Unquestionably one of the most important wristwatch designs ever conceived, it is a model that demonstrated how successfully the watch could be shifted from pocket to wrist. It showed that an entirely new genre of timepiece could be created, one that had no reliance on the styling of the pocket watches that preceded it. Testament to the brilliance of its design is the fact that both its shape, and many elements of its styling, can be found repeated again and again in a variety of models by many different makers right up to the present day. This tonneau-form wristwatch dates to the late 1960s and, unusually, has blue enamel highlights to the case sides (brancards).

View 1 of Lot 2301: Tonneau, Émail ‘Lapis Lazuli’ | A yellow gold tonneau form wristwatch with enamel simulating ‘lapis lazuli’ brancards, Circa 1968 

tonneau, émail ‘lapis lazuli’ | a yellow gold tonneau form wristwatch with enamel simulating ‘lapis lazuli’ brancards, circa 1968

Cartier, London An unusual yellow gold purse watch in the form of a walnut, Circa 1958-59 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, applied Arabic and faceted triangular hour indexes, dauphine hands Calibre: 6¾’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre signed Cartier Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 15 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, unadjusted Movement number: 1'142'858 Case: 9k yellow gold case cast in the form of a walnut, hinged and opening to reveal a broad ray-form fluted bezel with rope-twist effect borders itself hinged and containing the rear-wound watch Case number: outside case back with hand stamped numbering • 8661 • and 847, internal rim with London hallmarks and date letter ‘c’ for 1958-59 and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Size: 39 mm length x 29 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch Watches with cases cast in the form of objects had first found widespread popularity during the second quarter of the 17th century, when watch cases were available cast in a variety of forms including flower heads and animals. A small number of walnut watches were produced during the 19th century. The story of the gold Cartier London walnut is retold by Francesca Cartier Brickell in her book The Cartiers - The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewellery Empire. In her book, Cartier Brickell relays how her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, inspired by a bowl of nuts, decided to seek out a perfect specimen in order to have it cast in gold. Ever the perfectionist, it reportedly took three bags of walnuts before the ideal specimen emerged in Jean-Jacques hands. The gold walnut case was used by Cartier both as an empty pill box and as a housing for a purse watch. During the 1950s and 1960s there was a reaction by some designers against the classical watch shapes that had been established in the previous two decades. Unusual creative shapes were increasingly seen during the era, and Cartier in London were at the forefront of this design revolution, experimenting with a wide range of forms and styles.

View 1 of Lot 2240: An unusual yellow gold purse watch in the form of a walnut, Circa 1958-59

an unusual yellow gold purse watch in the form of a walnut, circa 1958-59

Cartier, Paris New York retailed A rare and interesting yellow gold dual-faced money clip integrating a watch and compass, Circa 1964 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, black Roman and baton hour indexes, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 5½’’’ tonneau-form calibre K491 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance with poising screws, flat hairspring, Kif flector shock absorber Movement number: backplate numbered 1'410'706 Case: 18k yellow gold clip of spoked wheel form against a 5-pointed star, front centred by a watch with multi-faceted bezel, notched winding crown above 12 o’clock, compass mounted to back Case number: inside case back numbered 130'580, with French eagle’s head assay mark and Edmond Jaeger punch mark, band interior numbered 580, back of the clip etch numbered 048‘665, feint hand etched number 130'580 and French eagle’s head assay mark Size: 43 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch Cartier produced money clips during the 1930s, some of which featured a watch combined with a compass. Research suggests that most of the money clips from this earlier period were produced by Cartier New York and finished locally in the United States, whereas the framework and casing of the present piece were crafted entirely by Cartier Paris.

View 1 of Lot 2239: New York retailed | A rare and interesting yellow gold dual-faced money clip integrating a watch and compass, Circa 1964 

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