Fabergé, Gold Boxes & Vertu | Sale Preview 

rectangular, the surface of translucent powder-blue enamel over wavy engine-turning within a raised bead frame, the reeded silver bezel encircled at each corner by gold ribbon, the outer borders of translucent lilac enamel, applied with intertwined silver-gilt laurel leaves and a four-petalled flower at each corner, raised on circular reeded feet, surmounted by a large gold bow and flanked by cabochon amethysts on chased acanthus leaf mounts, later wood reverse, the silver strut curled to form a heart at the base, struck to lower edge and strut with K.Fabergé in Cyrillic below Imperial warrant, 84 standard, struck to top bow with K.F in Cyrillic, 56 standard, scratched inventory number 27752

rectangular, the surface of translucent powder-blue enamel over wavy engine-turning within a raised bead frame, the reeded silver bezel encircled at each corner by gold ribbon, the outer borders of translucent lilac enamel, applied with intertwined silver-gilt laurel leaves and a four-petalled flower at each corner, raised on circular reeded feet, surmounted by a large gold bow and flanked by cabochon amethysts on chased acanthus leaf mounts, later wood reverse, the silver strut curled to form a heart at the base, struck to lower edge and strut with K.Fabergé in Cyrillic below Imperial warrant, 84 standard, struck to top bow with K.F in Cyrillic, 56 standard, scratched inventory number 27752 height 20.7 cm; 8 1/8 in.

View 1 of Lot 2: A large Fabergé gem-set gold, silver-gilt and guilloché enamel frame, Moscow, 1899-1908

a large fabergé gem-set gold, silver-gilt and guilloché enamel frame, moscow, 1899-1908

square, the surface enamelled in opalescent white over sunburst engine-turning, the picture depicting King Carlos I of Portugal (r.1889–1908) and Queen Amélie of Orléans, the circular aperture framed with bound reeds, the outer border of gold laurel wreaths tied with rose-gold ribbons, mammoth reverse, silver-gilt scroll strut, struck to top edge and strut K.Fabergé in Cyrillic beneath Imperial warrant, 56 standard, scratched inventory number 25967

square, the surface enamelled in opalescent white over sunburst engine-turning, the picture depicting King Carlos I of Portugal (r.1889–1908) and Queen Amélie of Orléans, the circular aperture framed with bound reeds, the outer border of gold laurel wreaths tied with rose-gold ribbons, mammoth reverse, silver-gilt scroll strut, struck to top edge and strut K.Fabergé in Cyrillic beneath Imperial warrant, 56 standard, scratched inventory number 25967 height 9 cm; 3 ½ in.

View 1 of Lot 4: A Fabergé two-colour gold and guilloché enamel frame, Moscow, 1899-1908

a fabergé two-colour gold and guilloché enamel frame, moscow, 1899-1908

Important Watches

Cartier, Paris A yellow gold, enamel and diamond-set openface keyless lever pendant watch with matching short chain and platinum and diamond-set brooch, Circa 1905 Dial: silvered sunburst patterned engine-turned dial, oval cartouche signed Cartier, Paris, Londres, stylised flower motif to the centre, black Arabic numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 10¼’’’ frosted gilded unsigned Swiss movement, lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring, numbered 960, matching short pearl-set chain with two pink guilloché enamel rods joining the pendant chains to a platinum and diamond-set brooch with millegrain setting Case: 18k yellow gold case, guilloché enamel case back of translucent pink enamel over ray-form engine-turning, central diamond-set star-form motif, opaque white enamel scalloped outer border, similarly scalloped front bezel, Art Nouveau chased and engraved bow, olivette for hand-setting to left side of pendant, inside case back and inner rim with French owl import assay marks Case number: back scratch numbered 960 Size: 28.5mm diameter Accessories: none In the watch shown here, Fabergé’s influence on Cartier’s early watchmaking style is unmistakable. The pink gold guilloché enamel case back demonstrates a level of craftsmanship reminiscent of Fabergé’s exquisite objets d’art. The translucent enamel creates a luminous effect, allowing the intricate engine-turned pattern beneath to shimmer through – a hallmark of the guilloché technique perfected by the workshop of Henri Lavabre on Paris’s rue Tiquetonne. Renowned for his exceptional skill, Lavabre was integral to Cartier’s success in producing pieces of unparalleled refinement, and his workshop worked exclusively for Cartier between 1906 and 1921. At the centre of the case back, a diamond set star-form motif adds brilliance and symmetry, reflecting the opulent yet refined decorative style favoured by Russian aristocracy. The design is completed with an opaque white enamel border that frames the edge of the case back and is mirrored on the bezel surrounding the dial, creating a crisp contrast that accentuates the watch’s elegance.

View 1 of Lot 2107: A yellow gold, enamel and diamond-set openface keyless lever pendant watch with matching short chain and platinum and diamond-set brooch, Circa 1905

a yellow gold, enamel and diamond-set openface keyless lever pendant watch with matching short chain and platinum and diamond-set brooch, circa 1905

Cartier, Paris London retailed A rare and unusual onyx, white gold, silver and enamel diamond-set desk clock with mirror dial, Circa 1930 Dial: mirror dial, épée hands inlaid with black enamel Calibre: 19’’’ frosted gilded 8-day duration calibre 19.41 movement signed Longines, lever escapement, 19 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, precision regulation Movement number: numbered beneath dial 2'978'573 Case: square black onyx case with rounded edges, 18k gold Art Deco bezel with Roman numerals at the quarters inset with black enamel, millegrain collet-set rose-cut diamonds at the intervening hours, gold bezel with French eagle’s head assay mark and stamped SCA within a losenge-shaped cartouche for Cartier Société anonyme, silver strut stand with gilt edges, back with aperture for winding and hand setting Case number: inside case back numbered 40, case back and strut stand with hand stamped numbering • 6013 • Size: 75 mm length x 75 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box and travelling pouch The square, frame-form clock with strut stand was already an established Cartier design by the early 1910s. In its earliest iterations, this style was heavily influenced by the Fabergé aesthetic, with cases often richly ornamented in guilloché enamel. The clock shown here illustrates how Cartier’s approach evolved during the Art Deco period, shifting away from enamel-dominated decoration toward hardstone cases that emphasised geometric forms and bold colour contrasts. In this example, the angular gold bezel is strikingly juxtaposed with the black onyx frame – a dramatic composition that is unmistakably Art Deco in character. The mirrored surface of the dial subtly evokes the ethereal quality of Cartier’s mystery clocks, the first of which was sold in 1912, just one year after Maurice Coüet (1885–1963) began his collaboration with the Maison. These elegant creations, with their seemingly floating hands and refined silhouettes, became icons of modern sophistication and helped cement Cartier’s reputation for horological innovation. Complex and time-consuming to produce, a single mystery clock could take up to 12 months to complete. While not a mystery clock, this piece uses a mirrored dial to suggest the same sense of illusion. At first glance, it is not immediately apparent whether the mirror is a see-through glazed panel or a dial mounted in front of the movement – a subtle, playful reference to the magic of Cartier’s most technically dazzling timepieces.

View 1 of Lot 2104: London retailed | A rare and unusual onyx, white gold, silver and enamel diamond-set desk clock with mirror dial, Circa 1930 

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